tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-72412171049292141132024-03-12T20:33:21.624-07:00CBS British Bike BuildNeil Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15041603942855623882noreply@blogger.comBlogger10125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7241217104929214113.post-751334769146885592016-10-27T05:03:00.001-07:002016-10-27T05:03:16.226-07:00Post No:1 10 - New Gearbox and stuff<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: x-large;">Post No: 10 - Replacement Gearbox</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">my email: neil@cbsonline.co.uk</span><br />
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The Comet engine's maximum revs are lower than the 650cc BSA so the bike could do with slightly longer legs. I made some enquiries with a company called Nova Racing who offer a 5 speed gear cluster with a choice of ratios but none higher than the 4 speed's 4th gear. The engine is not short of torque and I won't be thrashing around a track on it so I'll pass on the 5 speed for now. Instead, I've decided to go for a 20-tooth gearbox sprocket to replace the standard 19-tooth one fitted. This will, in theory, increase the speed by 5% for the same revs. If, after that, even longer legs were still needed there is still the option of a smaller rear wheel chain sprocket. It's a bit suck-it-and-see.<br />
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The standard, four-speed A10 gearbox on the bike is OK but it still whines a little in third and still has a niggly leak on the chain side. So - for a quick and easy change-over, I thought I'd look around for another gearbox to strip and rebuild. I saw this one at a Bike jumble recently for £160. It was grubby and drained of oil but all the external nuts and shafts looked in remarkably good nick apart from some surface rust - probably due to some wet bike jumbles. I started stripping it down and found most of the internals too, to be in pretty good condition, with the exception (strangely) of the kickstart pinion which is totally knackered. Although there was not a drop of oil inside, everything was gummed-up with a sticky coating of something that prevented free movement of the internals. All the gaskets looked absolutely original<br />
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and all the nuts and screws were finger-tight. Hmmm... the mystery thickens.....<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxNa1ZuaubSvxPKT3KA4zf-klT70WHSr0SxjAwk2Sl6lqZvoeC6-M66aFnCVDmnrzcmO69JxxU6Tl6stXVR9rIfhXaJ6MHeAXwa8wu8zCxBEEKgVBX4kH6NlJVWOeCkj2Uz3QuQG49BFFO/s1600/New+gerbox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxNa1ZuaubSvxPKT3KA4zf-klT70WHSr0SxjAwk2Sl6lqZvoeC6-M66aFnCVDmnrzcmO69JxxU6Tl6stXVR9rIfhXaJ6MHeAXwa8wu8zCxBEEKgVBX4kH6NlJVWOeCkj2Uz3QuQG49BFFO/s640/New+gerbox.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Almost as if the oil had all boiled away leaving a sticky glue on all the components that made it difficult to separate them. I eventually got it all cleaned off with gun-wash thinners. Here's the knackered kickstart pinion. The original part had probably, at some time, been cannibalised and replaced with the worn one, possibly explaining the loose nuts and bolts.</div>
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Hardly a sign of wear. And it looked like the original inner cover gasket.</div>
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It was drilled into me as a young Marconi apprentice - '<i>REMOVE SHARP EDGES</i>'. It was written on every drawing and repeated throughout the manufacturing planning documents for every aircraft component made there. It wasn't just a safety thing - sure they didn't want us to slice our pinkies when handling and assembling the parts. But it's all too easy for a sharp edge to wear through some adjacent wiring insulation with disastrous consequences at 30,000 feet. </div>
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Anyway, it has stuck with me. Any sharp edge that I see or feel has to go. The sharp edges of the BSA gearbox casing were left untouched after machining at the factory so, thirty minutes with a fine file had them removed and rounded-off.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJaI4kQLNmDdY_uOS2fjPigaebqVdX389CRyWHpoyl71RhY7DcpaXHoKO7m1JMnsjqWLRotikGkMrdsQmHsFOljYiEBfZyPtiCsRQ4QaRLeZ_t5n2MtJnoobJgWICOR-KQPT7rq_vot2yi/s1600/Remove+Sharp+Edges.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJaI4kQLNmDdY_uOS2fjPigaebqVdX389CRyWHpoyl71RhY7DcpaXHoKO7m1JMnsjqWLRotikGkMrdsQmHsFOljYiEBfZyPtiCsRQ4QaRLeZ_t5n2MtJnoobJgWICOR-KQPT7rq_vot2yi/s640/Remove+Sharp+Edges.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I'm not into adding bits of 'Bling' just for the sake of it and I'm not particularly interested in originality, so dressing and polishing a rough casting neatens and tidies the look of it - to my eyes anyway. I've probably covered this process before but here it is again. 'Scotchbrite' abrasive discs are brilliant for removing casting imperfections and moulding marks. </div>
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I start with a 100mm disc on a velcro pad in my angle grinder. Then on to 50mm discs in my air die-grinder. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitTaVwCDJbNs9F8lRA80UrHnWF4qPEFTr36zy24N-PpDIa_iHzlHyaySta8ZpWw3UTHnu0ytMVXGRhGXkJPqW6eglCHqCmf5RrCU1wAVsDzcz8XPbb3McxgdKkAtPj_HzAcGo6y6bQ6igo/s1600/Small+scotch+on+gbox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitTaVwCDJbNs9F8lRA80UrHnWF4qPEFTr36zy24N-PpDIa_iHzlHyaySta8ZpWw3UTHnu0ytMVXGRhGXkJPqW6eglCHqCmf5RrCU1wAVsDzcz8XPbb3McxgdKkAtPj_HzAcGo6y6bQ6igo/s640/Small+scotch+on+gbox.jpg" width="606" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheE11FsHHLr_QWb38u0JxgDPXSBb8tVC2Qsc9SqH5ySjPUcP7un_mF1q6Bn-MoUNV_SvQ0tN5V4x5y8_awOoa6rTHE6DdQof-LQOFJ_4Z7OTEiTuRTQkomZXZ3BK3QJ3Nb7YKJ8VEUMkiA/s1600/Gbpx+mismatch+sbrite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheE11FsHHLr_QWb38u0JxgDPXSBb8tVC2Qsc9SqH5ySjPUcP7un_mF1q6Bn-MoUNV_SvQ0tN5V4x5y8_awOoa6rTHE6DdQof-LQOFJ_4Z7OTEiTuRTQkomZXZ3BK3QJ3Nb7YKJ8VEUMkiA/s640/Gbpx+mismatch+sbrite.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
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These, sand-cast gearbox casings were made long before the days of Japanese, mass, precision die-casting so it's no surprise that the profile of mating components do not match perfectly (thankfully, the mating faces do).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje72e3CZcMMBHdWZOm5pw-twLeNnNHjMCtbA2fhcS4MfGSD2mmUNkFLlNk2hV_dbzLUmLezxmE7ZidqoMuLqiHxxCR-PGkSvv_PZPSZYqSaDn_lPb_Z4gmS2_4OgTqoolgn5DWXJQr7GA3/s1600/Gbox+mismatch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje72e3CZcMMBHdWZOm5pw-twLeNnNHjMCtbA2fhcS4MfGSD2mmUNkFLlNk2hV_dbzLUmLezxmE7ZidqoMuLqiHxxCR-PGkSvv_PZPSZYqSaDn_lPb_Z4gmS2_4OgTqoolgn5DWXJQr7GA3/s640/Gbox+mismatch.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-Q2zSMRT6iFyY4IBCeRSXCUYVTHK0Q4p_tUWryMzmYCae7uUpNagk_1xgOkvt_6VcJ0WhIw0A5eNXRv8CQmfIor5G34DvDUr7tqpoiH2A4gL_cXoYbWoEvy29QFWl4-7LKAvY9SwMsO9/s1600/Gbox+mismatch+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="414" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-Q2zSMRT6iFyY4IBCeRSXCUYVTHK0Q4p_tUWryMzmYCae7uUpNagk_1xgOkvt_6VcJ0WhIw0A5eNXRv8CQmfIor5G34DvDUr7tqpoiH2A4gL_cXoYbWoEvy29QFWl4-7LKAvY9SwMsO9/s640/Gbox+mismatch+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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There's enough material on the castings to blend the castings to a flush fit with a Scotchbrite disc. Here, I'm working down through grades of abrasive paper before the final polish.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV2WWuH9SuuW-lyqzxm2PrWCbZEV-qaXi4p4GsauRWipNgCr77xNvMXFeZpsiiMvsyjKWJ7BFZ-W-jApMKY3SREpiJlliqb4cb6wleJoOp2oetoDVOEp3sskFnPm94ViVub8tv2oWTDInE/s1600/GBOX+prod+paper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV2WWuH9SuuW-lyqzxm2PrWCbZEV-qaXi4p4GsauRWipNgCr77xNvMXFeZpsiiMvsyjKWJ7BFZ-W-jApMKY3SREpiJlliqb4cb6wleJoOp2oetoDVOEp3sskFnPm94ViVub8tv2oWTDInE/s640/GBOX+prod+paper.jpg" width="596" /></a></div>
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I used the rounded end of an artist's paint brush, wrapped in Wet & Dry to remove the cast texture in the more difficult corners. First 240 grit, then 400 then 800.</div>
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... then a felt bob on a mandrel wiped with Solvol Autosol.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidp_q4iPC8At6eqhyphenhyphenpKsVacZYqwAEWNYDvz4nbT84UuHxkcdzub3QHL9mofUJ4b2OqpRCE2xnhCuOjXNhL_X6kSMfhBW4nESNCkliEm5NBrpTYWF6IkAVxsMFLBZ_sVx_T4_IUiCps-fHm/s1600/felt+bob+on+mandrel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="566" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidp_q4iPC8At6eqhyphenhyphenpKsVacZYqwAEWNYDvz4nbT84UuHxkcdzub3QHL9mofUJ4b2OqpRCE2xnhCuOjXNhL_X6kSMfhBW4nESNCkliEm5NBrpTYWF6IkAVxsMFLBZ_sVx_T4_IUiCps-fHm/s640/felt+bob+on+mandrel.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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..... and a 1" diameter felt disc with Solvol in my Dremel gets into tight spots<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqvzzsZjn3ph9DunlooXl3dVhaTUCPucLK4lwUBbOEuL2-YnsRos4Ky_56JrCog7q95aQtPmgqY08CLjgFcUsQnqobjxIAAdTqsDZqKZocWDVHgBWzm7Z7AxhTkyYoSRzwpkktYcO0ZLSf/s1600/felt+bob+in+Dremel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqvzzsZjn3ph9DunlooXl3dVhaTUCPucLK4lwUBbOEuL2-YnsRos4Ky_56JrCog7q95aQtPmgqY08CLjgFcUsQnqobjxIAAdTqsDZqKZocWDVHgBWzm7Z7AxhTkyYoSRzwpkktYcO0ZLSf/s640/felt+bob+in+Dremel.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Ta-daaa. A couple of hour's work on this area of the casting got it to this stage. That's good enough.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGoGLrSkrG3dS936XZFfYL3XILL1zXEuoh61t2TseirIFRbtYw7wY8SdwTfcIrPqWoZxSwuhcJrT3PtbKRDY7euUC-w7ULud6PM25POI7Ab9cNv22kUHeuXptka-voehDhTa4gzu3l1KAA/s1600/bling+box.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGoGLrSkrG3dS936XZFfYL3XILL1zXEuoh61t2TseirIFRbtYw7wY8SdwTfcIrPqWoZxSwuhcJrT3PtbKRDY7euUC-w7ULud6PM25POI7Ab9cNv22kUHeuXptka-voehDhTa4gzu3l1KAA/s640/bling+box.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It's mostly true that you get what you pay for so, credit where it's due....... I thought I'd try this stuff and it is Amazing. OK, it's about £9 for a small pot but it's by far the best and easiest to use that I've found so far.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVIQ3lkIzvjXy3S5eg0jE4kcCL_zhC329migcQC3rq8DUP_n5Bt8tM-CIj0Gud9Ru4JYtJ9QBSCw9Nut3qex5r_MHz4pS6TgywugEsDZTZC-BTG-6cdRBN4CbAGkd_EjHTVctnR2DoCFr8/s1600/Mothers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVIQ3lkIzvjXy3S5eg0jE4kcCL_zhC329migcQC3rq8DUP_n5Bt8tM-CIj0Gud9Ru4JYtJ9QBSCw9Nut3qex5r_MHz4pS6TgywugEsDZTZC-BTG-6cdRBN4CbAGkd_EjHTVctnR2DoCFr8/s640/Mothers.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
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When you take a close look at a BSA gearbox it's no surprise that they all leak oil. There is really only one oil seal - on the output shaft, sealing around the chain sprocket and against the main bearing outer race casing. It's held in place by a large circlip. There's a reasonable chance of making a seal around the sprocket but the seal's questionable design leaves me with doubts about it's effectiveness around the edge and against the bearing. So, I added a tiny bead of gasket sealer all around the outside edge to seal between it, the bearing and the casing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Dyw1t6QUtbz5imLkFA_dBsyZb60DgjHXbvp6XGLfA2x7XgKUtruGxaIaq-QHOU3LgG326mBq5SGw_laMHHaESyD5BKLt4zRx2z22UeMkE4_tYvLkt8V54UTtCvQrp-tZt3Jxp9gr2UfA/s1600/Output+shaft+seal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Dyw1t6QUtbz5imLkFA_dBsyZb60DgjHXbvp6XGLfA2x7XgKUtruGxaIaq-QHOU3LgG326mBq5SGw_laMHHaESyD5BKLt4zRx2z22UeMkE4_tYvLkt8V54UTtCvQrp-tZt3Jxp9gr2UfA/s400/Output+shaft+seal.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Again, if the bronze bush in the output gear is in good nick, then SRM's combined seal / nut should make the output shaft oil tight. A smear of gasket goo on both sides of the washer wouldn't go amiss.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoPfwMSvpvOEB0bSiJxn-1DRzVFOOLwh9DNOi4rcjeIQO_nfaTwMScSUXYJidDpYcuz7PDRfrzmiZBzY83TpfW1n8cN8__sbrHgo2836ah79RXwUkeTujjsUbKerXa6AIrXCQMgfZvG8wF/s1600/SRM+seal+nut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoPfwMSvpvOEB0bSiJxn-1DRzVFOOLwh9DNOi4rcjeIQO_nfaTwMScSUXYJidDpYcuz7PDRfrzmiZBzY83TpfW1n8cN8__sbrHgo2836ah79RXwUkeTujjsUbKerXa6AIrXCQMgfZvG8wF/s640/SRM+seal+nut.jpg" width="520" /></a></div>
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However, I think that the main oil leak culprit is behind this sprocket, where the selector fork shaft goes through a 3/8" hole in the main casing (in the middle of the picture below), secured with a grub screw that locates in a groove around the shaft. The shaft does not rotate - it just sits there in a clearance hole so there is neither a bearing or a seal to prevent oil creeping along the clearance between the hole and the shaft and dribbling out behind the sprocket. If the bike is left on it's prop-stand (mine has no centre stand) it's likely that the hole is below oil level. Hence - leak guaranteed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfoZBpxB5idTNJY8GNvdElcLZymgwwaV2AJrk5CbbSiDV02ug76acgKFSD0GPqGuXHk5tYQYkE-ROoy53EPYnroXGDlhtXaCfqy-a8cYf6oN-EdCA60mmqUtEexZcqf_27WRHjlb0G7TNg/s1600/Gear+shifter+fork+shaft.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfoZBpxB5idTNJY8GNvdElcLZymgwwaV2AJrk5CbbSiDV02ug76acgKFSD0GPqGuXHk5tYQYkE-ROoy53EPYnroXGDlhtXaCfqy-a8cYf6oN-EdCA60mmqUtEexZcqf_27WRHjlb0G7TNg/s640/Gear+shifter+fork+shaft.jpg" width="474" /></a></div>
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I thoroughly cleaned the shaft, it's hole and the grub screw thread with gun-wash and assembled the shaft dry. I then pumped sealant into the screw hole to feed around the groove and along the clearance between shaft and hole. I was surprised how easily the sealant made it's way to the outside of the casing indicating a fair bit of clearance around the shaft. Some sealer probably made it to the inside of the casing too but there's no way of cleaning it off so I have to hope that it'll cure and just stay there. I cleaned the screw and installed it, further pressurising the sealant.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEvK6Dc4ojuQec0xdYDtMQmYAP0VDMmF5IpsWw5N7OFmpmhZhkslIhNZhls5WKhcq7ow3GaI-TVxI3WITwbk3fgnbOCY6FGObGMHM0jveiEWKDMICDjRzfe7-bG-sLO3V4JABBp4JX9fmh/s1600/Sealing+gear+fork+shaft.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEvK6Dc4ojuQec0xdYDtMQmYAP0VDMmF5IpsWw5N7OFmpmhZhkslIhNZhls5WKhcq7ow3GaI-TVxI3WITwbk3fgnbOCY6FGObGMHM0jveiEWKDMICDjRzfe7-bG-sLO3V4JABBp4JX9fmh/s640/Sealing+gear+fork+shaft.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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This is the gearchange quadrant pivot pin - just located in a hole in the casing with no seal and with the potential to leak. I can't say that I've noticed a leak from here but it's situated behind a flange, out of sight with the box installed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRMQKf6qw9MP5pxkTP2paGH9575cQWrVBnlp0m8kvK9XQeYGH_LsYbucr3hbVKOG6vgYDAB-MV7-shjHCjBM9FCcuGcaLMhNavq-g6Z9JfWoehv5szMxwiQjsCwSGIuQxvw7pf9halzFm8/s1600/Pawl+pivot+shaft+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRMQKf6qw9MP5pxkTP2paGH9575cQWrVBnlp0m8kvK9XQeYGH_LsYbucr3hbVKOG6vgYDAB-MV7-shjHCjBM9FCcuGcaLMhNavq-g6Z9JfWoehv5szMxwiQjsCwSGIuQxvw7pf9halzFm8/s640/Pawl+pivot+shaft+1.jpg" width="618" /></a></div>
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Cleaned and sealed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfW7Er-5MM6mxC9p57YWdy8WB8piVwmJH4793qqZ7Ps0wCGkuRcT6JCulFus8DQeUuKNvCsxKbXA_VCQGEsbh05F_3hru2mlkRhuHu4mqhNgTsFjxQptTz5KNaqZCq1ysaCI9cWVnG3_HE/s1600/Pawl+pivot+shaft+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfW7Er-5MM6mxC9p57YWdy8WB8piVwmJH4793qqZ7Ps0wCGkuRcT6JCulFus8DQeUuKNvCsxKbXA_VCQGEsbh05F_3hru2mlkRhuHu4mqhNgTsFjxQptTz5KNaqZCq1ysaCI9cWVnG3_HE/s640/Pawl+pivot+shaft+2.jpg" width="578" /></a></div>
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... and another. This is the retaining thread on kickstart stop peg inside the outer cover. It's just installed through a hole in the inner cover with a spring washer and plain nut on the outside. Belt and braces - a plain washer with sealant and a nyloc nut. The excess sealant wipes off easily.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJWRinwePkYGtqPvCNF4Xak-oRgyiUVxJpT2Ter5aQAxQLOh8i60O_p7RHBbaAml9fZl4ax4LYLXw7rKm7FCcicRPRJhtAVMMD9pPrGZAVtaAslVRIqaAlP5lSaeuMBLYor06ReaSN_PkX/s1600/KS+pawl+stop+peg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJWRinwePkYGtqPvCNF4Xak-oRgyiUVxJpT2Ter5aQAxQLOh8i60O_p7RHBbaAml9fZl4ax4LYLXw7rKm7FCcicRPRJhtAVMMD9pPrGZAVtaAslVRIqaAlP5lSaeuMBLYor06ReaSN_PkX/s640/KS+pawl+stop+peg.jpg" width="598" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">New gaskets with a light smear of sealant on all sides should take care of the inner and outer covers but these gearboxes have no seals on either the kickstart or gearchange shafts. They rely on the oil level being lower than the shafts and minimal oil turbulence inside the kickstart chamber. </span></div>
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To be fair, leaks around these shafts hasn't been a major problem. Maybe a slight weep over hundreds of miles but nothing that justifies the machining exercise of installing seals on the shafts.</div>
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Check out the neat, cast 'BSA' inspection cover I found on ebay. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg19Yo954Grqnpdz0JxohXVOHSsBgBUZVXNEsxLBbRZOXcJCL-OKZHDHcf3rikeqR1jEcFQKjupVGtYwx3GA_7JoVt5GIA4kvJYDUF6JBpEH5LoKVXS0n0zYqkmi78F44StqGI75HCu7kiy/s1600/BSA+cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="496" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg19Yo954Grqnpdz0JxohXVOHSsBgBUZVXNEsxLBbRZOXcJCL-OKZHDHcf3rikeqR1jEcFQKjupVGtYwx3GA_7JoVt5GIA4kvJYDUF6JBpEH5LoKVXS0n0zYqkmi78F44StqGI75HCu7kiy/s640/BSA+cover.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxs-a6StYdleCrkJp4BI_dPw6Jbz-LMPqg23-TsSaYNcAYr-xa_w9qL3K4t1eipcQGEpA7XasD_5b5J4051gvBRh9Wy2TwCAx1KvJ0mqceR5mhBisr8fNZbWB7EePWoGv5y9u8U5cphnTM/s1600/BSA+inspection+cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxs-a6StYdleCrkJp4BI_dPw6Jbz-LMPqg23-TsSaYNcAYr-xa_w9qL3K4t1eipcQGEpA7XasD_5b5J4051gvBRh9Wy2TwCAx1KvJ0mqceR5mhBisr8fNZbWB7EePWoGv5y9u8U5cphnTM/s320/BSA+inspection+cover.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I replaced all the studs, screws and nuts with stainless ones and 'blinged-em-up' a bit on the polisher.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV-pEejUFdFrcodtUib6FvRKWV2oUYT-bg6Up69m5XlTRNfYY33XVMXmF-Fzh7NB9Y1ItOPmf1KfVdGRCMWyHuhBIX8sxmESuW_yRH-eNEXf1ekM0YFYbXYpzj6hp_d0wJ3WxtAP3WLPA6/s1600/Polished+nuts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV-pEejUFdFrcodtUib6FvRKWV2oUYT-bg6Up69m5XlTRNfYY33XVMXmF-Fzh7NB9Y1ItOPmf1KfVdGRCMWyHuhBIX8sxmESuW_yRH-eNEXf1ekM0YFYbXYpzj6hp_d0wJ3WxtAP3WLPA6/s400/Polished+nuts.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Right - ready to swap the box. I'm hoping that the machined dimensions on both boxes are identical so that I can re-use the spacers. They're all different sizes and fit in specific places. I've already stamped them for identification. You can see a nut on the chain side of of the top mounting stud at the bottom of this picture.......<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip-zvcF8UcQlSpnOMwEQXQydagDXjPtxv89MpwuCeeBMCzgHdyC8d8tIGD80diJuV57yRU-x8p3p90lqatoldRR6qip7bHmix0V1Imvfm2GVm0wxmafrQ_aq1hFeGcgmhPvk2g5AYFHgsX/s1600/spacers+ID.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip-zvcF8UcQlSpnOMwEQXQydagDXjPtxv89MpwuCeeBMCzgHdyC8d8tIGD80diJuV57yRU-x8p3p90lqatoldRR6qip7bHmix0V1Imvfm2GVm0wxmafrQ_aq1hFeGcgmhPvk2g5AYFHgsX/s640/spacers+ID.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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....... and here it is after modification. Because the new sprocket has one extra tooth, it's diameter is slightly more than the original - and it fouled the original nut. So, I silver-soldered the nut to the stud thread and machined it down in the lathe to about 16mm diameter x 3mm thick. Just clearing the chain. i have since machined two flats on the round head for a 1/2" spanner<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqLev1oDjc77grIOGFz-NSWtyIpKUP5rBFGLGzHfAbpsXKd39q8sres-QJn6p2aZqjrzcMGVSOx27CsF2YFbByZ71Gb_xtaCApbjRld9JscfxFOJZqJNz1zIe-GpIoToe24UAjMuEyQ8pD/s1600/new+sprocket+chain+clearance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqLev1oDjc77grIOGFz-NSWtyIpKUP5rBFGLGzHfAbpsXKd39q8sres-QJn6p2aZqjrzcMGVSOx27CsF2YFbByZ71Gb_xtaCApbjRld9JscfxFOJZqJNz1zIe-GpIoToe24UAjMuEyQ8pD/s640/new+sprocket+chain+clearance.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Here's an old trick I'd forgotten about. Drill through two old clutch plates - a friction one and a steel one and bolt them together. Fit them temporarily and they'll lock the inner and outer clutch housings while you tighten the centre fixing nut.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOUwTQ00mFREe2nCTKA5eWjn5y7dJ0dvy0faxoyCtqsh4Zr-hqUrI16kmfuurGHkLRz7LxQVP7sDrR-Xm29wYgOahO-6fsaDQmmbq2iizYw1GDDBu5qBVfw-Y7Nkml8g6FvrZh4gGL60nO/s1600/clutch+plates+together.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="592" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOUwTQ00mFREe2nCTKA5eWjn5y7dJ0dvy0faxoyCtqsh4Zr-hqUrI16kmfuurGHkLRz7LxQVP7sDrR-Xm29wYgOahO-6fsaDQmmbq2iizYw1GDDBu5qBVfw-Y7Nkml8g6FvrZh4gGL60nO/s640/clutch+plates+together.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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All back together, adjusted and set-up.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNfIOPsIvYTOtdzfkyDkcHTg9M2avaVqfYQjE9DKKhJbGhlcXbZ_MDkrr_Uc1oi896yGpAYGSZzn7VFWPWbQP84fdbceZl64yQV_sa2W_fFI3PAI2sHi0yGukO0Jw19NCRC1thLDfeC7Ho/s1600/new+box+in+oct+16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="502" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNfIOPsIvYTOtdzfkyDkcHTg9M2avaVqfYQjE9DKKhJbGhlcXbZ_MDkrr_Uc1oi896yGpAYGSZzn7VFWPWbQP84fdbceZl64yQV_sa2W_fFI3PAI2sHi0yGukO0Jw19NCRC1thLDfeC7Ho/s640/new+box+in+oct+16.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...... and off for a test ride through the local lanes. The box seems much smoother than the old one and just one tooth increase on the output sprocket has transformed the feel of the ride. The Revs to MPH is now about the same as my BSA RGS - a lazy, mid-revs cruise at 55 mph. There's plenty of torque available in all the gears from really low revs so no need to go for a 5 - speed conversion.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZyGm7OohnpU8wfa2lhpW6mdQhlAaSjgLTV6gL8RAMfOL96QOWX5F_2eSQ-eIkxoAwC4iXxevG-Ehrk3M61U_gV1DlPRmZzicTcyyqiiOT8R81fZxAfSCwJo9hVmhD24SizROhN_MFLe6J/s1600/lane+norvin+oct+16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZyGm7OohnpU8wfa2lhpW6mdQhlAaSjgLTV6gL8RAMfOL96QOWX5F_2eSQ-eIkxoAwC4iXxevG-Ehrk3M61U_gV1DlPRmZzicTcyyqiiOT8R81fZxAfSCwJo9hVmhD24SizROhN_MFLe6J/s640/lane+norvin+oct+16.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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..............................and an arty pic</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJWEafUSLnEroa-oBmUtN50CfDq4717xYK11ApxIrmvbpLh4RxJfSLUxJST0s9EkEXHZiOsYG5V7hyphenhyphenop7S0GBZteOA7CUQm6h0bZfQwjBbpGYCEnsR7PpIUlnuxgWw827TicSrPr0UgEz0/s1600/NORVART2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJWEafUSLnEroa-oBmUtN50CfDq4717xYK11ApxIrmvbpLh4RxJfSLUxJST0s9EkEXHZiOsYG5V7hyphenhyphenop7S0GBZteOA7CUQm6h0bZfQwjBbpGYCEnsR7PpIUlnuxgWw827TicSrPr0UgEz0/s640/NORVART2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjVOo6Kwiqo_K6iHHdqnTEJZkHgGCOhbu5qP88GiZpfB7OU2Tl6OVLdW11fKhAGP1qVvqIWq50kBf7UwwjWIoQt6G1NC1Rxzw8yIyJymHl2bnmJyYppd3QRmDV1Sl0nFwnS6oJPAXum-J/s1600/Norvin+side+Oct+16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjVOo6Kwiqo_K6iHHdqnTEJZkHgGCOhbu5qP88GiZpfB7OU2Tl6OVLdW11fKhAGP1qVvqIWq50kBf7UwwjWIoQt6G1NC1Rxzw8yIyJymHl2bnmJyYppd3QRmDV1Sl0nFwnS6oJPAXum-J/s640/Norvin+side+Oct+16.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The leak-proofing procedure seems to have been successful so, here's the box that came out of the NORVIN - all stripped and ready for inspection and rebuild. It'll eventually replace the leaky one in my RGS. Here we go again.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6GxnE4Z4U6Pu-uXPsyiydBfULO-UxlJ_05nfsZEuf4Mn6vqimBu_EdBl1JqjTQgXHZnK1ch4HpCfj8XrrLHsb7dkwEJ6CAWe4uB8o5KwLLanzb4Km7G6hSW4_xpgbqVKQtdQ2ymuecwC5/s1600/Gearbox+2+bits.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6GxnE4Z4U6Pu-uXPsyiydBfULO-UxlJ_05nfsZEuf4Mn6vqimBu_EdBl1JqjTQgXHZnK1ch4HpCfj8XrrLHsb7dkwEJ6CAWe4uB8o5KwLLanzb4Km7G6hSW4_xpgbqVKQtdQ2ymuecwC5/s640/Gearbox+2+bits.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Neil Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15041603942855623882noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7241217104929214113.post-83854117601510909632016-09-26T06:01:00.000-07:002016-09-26T06:01:11.337-07:00Post No: 9 - Mods<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKXtm9T5pvcpRn_2TMEMOY7l8_2BxAn6MLKegxbo5rPyPQtsi9rLyvmZzJrYIqasbkl2wUuyeWUOzLyxydZpjfeXVwgSaV1PmsLO0K1b8cKkwachhQqdEDeLba9egLbj8zdrpyIhjzuBr/s1600/NORVIN+CBS+LOGO.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="62" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKXtm9T5pvcpRn_2TMEMOY7l8_2BxAn6MLKegxbo5rPyPQtsi9rLyvmZzJrYIqasbkl2wUuyeWUOzLyxydZpjfeXVwgSaV1PmsLO0K1b8cKkwachhQqdEDeLba9egLbj8zdrpyIhjzuBr/s400/NORVIN+CBS+LOGO.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: x-large;">Post No: 9 - Mods</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">my email: neil@cbsonline.co.uk</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">UPDATE JUNE 2016</span></div>
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I've kinda worked out how to start the beast on the first kick without being thrown over the handlebars (most times), warm or cold but it's still a mighty effort for my 63 year-old legs with titanium hip joints on both. So, anything that will minimise the firing-up effort is worth considering. Someone has come up with an electric start for BSA A10's which is worth a little more investigation in the future. But for now, keeping with the general theme of the bike, I'm going to fit this BTH electronic ignition, replacement unit in the hope that a stronger, more reliable spark will improve starting. It's a fully self-contained unit that requires no external power supply (just like a Magneto) but it has an external, small coil mounted on a floppy stainless bracket. I'm sure I can come up with a neater way of fitting it. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZgK7Ppvv6w4m6uyPkOODafcG4T-IuszU2-H3Cu_QmeCL0A7ppOOsfd2GrigT8WqPz95oqbAt_li8-OZnk0ZLKRzHwezu9Ck8dmPl-Y0MPFdYWe4BOvNOaxwQGaESEHH3R_PEazPDEuJcH/s1600/Comet+Mag+new.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZgK7Ppvv6w4m6uyPkOODafcG4T-IuszU2-H3Cu_QmeCL0A7ppOOsfd2GrigT8WqPz95oqbAt_li8-OZnk0ZLKRzHwezu9Ck8dmPl-Y0MPFdYWe4BOvNOaxwQGaESEHH3R_PEazPDEuJcH/s640/Comet+Mag+new.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Polished up and mounted, it looks neat and purposeful. You can see the removable pin that locks the spindle in the fully-advanced position while you set up the engine to 32 degrees before TDC.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8YMKmPZyeG3M-3-fkr5K1l3wzGxMx0JBjLIUDiHU9z3H00UwaKvp_9D9610oO9IJYrGld29KGXb0rKpDuhUJz_JhpvAeXhN34qlhxHflcGUYcCLQ32il10lJtwhhioeOHtEaQ9qM2R9g/s1600/BTH+mag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8YMKmPZyeG3M-3-fkr5K1l3wzGxMx0JBjLIUDiHU9z3H00UwaKvp_9D9610oO9IJYrGld29KGXb0rKpDuhUJz_JhpvAeXhN34qlhxHflcGUYcCLQ32il10lJtwhhioeOHtEaQ9qM2R9g/s640/BTH+mag.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The BTH unit has internally programmed, automatic advance and retard so the original, mechanical bob-weight advance mechanism is now redundant. I'll eventually remove it and replace the drive cog but for now I've just spot-welded the arms to lock it in the fully retarded position.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMKjh4JU4XL8ed_9wtS9m8WwnilEQ-54zuzIMm9Z8vpwwmKrjZkr9JSs1ICOemsNv16H2q3kqrCndYbW50PtIXa8tViFPGPslgOXls6VWyYvxAY2KDigXAkANDltPv3XI22xgWzPIkqLMB/s1600/Welded+advance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMKjh4JU4XL8ed_9wtS9m8WwnilEQ-54zuzIMm9Z8vpwwmKrjZkr9JSs1ICOemsNv16H2q3kqrCndYbW50PtIXa8tViFPGPslgOXls6VWyYvxAY2KDigXAkANDltPv3XI22xgWzPIkqLMB/s640/Welded+advance.jpg" width="612" /></a></div>
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A downloaded an image of a timing wheel from Google was printed onto thick paper and a tapered paint brush handle pushed through it into the hole in the end of the crank. A couple of bits of sellotape fix the disc well enough to the wood. A little paper arrow held in place with a magnet indicated the piston position at 32 degrees before top dead centre - full advance.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlIg6D2Uafb9Kuwl_EfBI4Z-68zEBv2aMyAVNpKwPcXd9QnWdu_HCe2rhoshVgUVpsp123OamnZ_pE5h-PA5FP5npAw5p2hd5kBfd8sszvYm_Wlu_Ll7u7B7cz4RvVLVC0tNgyCic5CLKz/s1600/Timing+disc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlIg6D2Uafb9Kuwl_EfBI4Z-68zEBv2aMyAVNpKwPcXd9QnWdu_HCe2rhoshVgUVpsp123OamnZ_pE5h-PA5FP5npAw5p2hd5kBfd8sszvYm_Wlu_Ll7u7B7cz4RvVLVC0tNgyCic5CLKz/s640/Timing+disc.jpg" width="608" /></a></div>
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I fixed the teeny-weeny coil to the head-steady mount and refitted the tacho pick-up to the HT lead. Not sure if the tacho will work on the very high tension of this unit but if not I'll re-program the tacho to receive a coil signal.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXD6JNEei5V5-HyAXeEgzojGKe6wrm4JnIZl4Erb1Ma6Rh4t62-Xx1r59kw-MZjyJGiFP2YqWwk8g9ZSiMbQQMSiy40abRM3XETaQPqeLTTlQOsZdBfmr7AidQRIBRNN_HtW5yZBkSlaYW/s1600/Coil+on+engine+steady.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXD6JNEei5V5-HyAXeEgzojGKe6wrm4JnIZl4Erb1Ma6Rh4t62-Xx1r59kw-MZjyJGiFP2YqWwk8g9ZSiMbQQMSiy40abRM3XETaQPqeLTTlQOsZdBfmr7AidQRIBRNN_HtW5yZBkSlaYW/s640/Coil+on+engine+steady.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
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RESULT - An absolute transformation. No kick-backs (so far), easier starting, rock-steady tickover, smoother power through the rev range and I'm sure it'll be far more reliable.<br />
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It is sometimes inevitable that you have to run wires or cables along frame or chassis tubes, often secured with a cable tie or tape around the tube - not nice. The wires from the BTH magneto up to the coil had to follow the front frame tubes. I found these discreet little self-adhesive clips for round tubes that are only about 12mm square and can hardly be seen. I wrapped the cable with a few turns of CBS cloth insulation tape to build-up the diameter for a secure fixing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikzMEVJKuFkWDfZ-gmGwxshYKN45XGVSNwz9xFCr8VlPcXBa0qWvrMiylvkUXLPIo1xT0hPmkJ9_rTZaocIYPhIHoq_gQDaG8KM6DMSIEZ5OqMa8lLyg_YOUZsibEzSVtkcrly-R-6wqmG/s1600/CCF+expl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikzMEVJKuFkWDfZ-gmGwxshYKN45XGVSNwz9xFCr8VlPcXBa0qWvrMiylvkUXLPIo1xT0hPmkJ9_rTZaocIYPhIHoq_gQDaG8KM6DMSIEZ5OqMa8lLyg_YOUZsibEzSVtkcrly-R-6wqmG/s320/CCF+expl.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixYsnPOgkxCEGcMHoyQzlqcnQdupPul6uyUwJl9lmB1aPxZmN9IXcg-SC_gwlhDA8HD0Rdbvzmx6Sb2EIheqFNCAtPadq27NkWhFMpzRFuXELCdLkDiJ3llyyvaWbAeL2wVmNsGpuYiPut/s1600/cloth+tape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixYsnPOgkxCEGcMHoyQzlqcnQdupPul6uyUwJl9lmB1aPxZmN9IXcg-SC_gwlhDA8HD0Rdbvzmx6Sb2EIheqFNCAtPadq27NkWhFMpzRFuXELCdLkDiJ3llyyvaWbAeL2wVmNsGpuYiPut/s320/cloth+tape.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwmlyhd5sUvPJT7vrC3YPPdRJVdJgGnarA6SH_QrFywCVmO83y_XSllrQOlllb6p80UIM6g05UiHJmDB8bmF8CEtA99x7UQzq4cbW3fwYSqSp9QqlkGTXYZwwJDT2TX2WeLJXFnShRT_e/s1600/cable+clip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwmlyhd5sUvPJT7vrC3YPPdRJVdJgGnarA6SH_QrFywCVmO83y_XSllrQOlllb6p80UIM6g05UiHJmDB8bmF8CEtA99x7UQzq4cbW3fwYSqSp9QqlkGTXYZwwJDT2TX2WeLJXFnShRT_e/s640/cable+clip.jpg" width="548" /></a></div>
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Original Vincent oil filters are made from wool with a wire mesh core. This was obviously before the days of modern cartridge filters but Vincent experts reckon they're at least as good.<br />
Incidentally, I have discovered that there are two versions of this filter - different lengths - one at 3 5/8" and one at 4". The short one is for Comets and the longer one for V Twins. I found no mention of this fact in any Vincent literature or other information. I was sold a 4" one as a Comet filter and was very confused for a while until I read the two dimension options on a supplier's website where both are sold as Comet filters.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfGAi6T_PZcaE3Ogqxffb-0WkpbKFdlbsMcGLLK2UyG0OnmfdVoEX6PYSx3HAHXPognjES4mAvVeMOckcFKBYEeQCM1pIEpGrVZQFfMHzWPKGyQbKCGSr6CuZEAdyBJi0mjAKnXZtAsfHf/s1600/Wool+filter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfGAi6T_PZcaE3Ogqxffb-0WkpbKFdlbsMcGLLK2UyG0OnmfdVoEX6PYSx3HAHXPognjES4mAvVeMOckcFKBYEeQCM1pIEpGrVZQFfMHzWPKGyQbKCGSr6CuZEAdyBJi0mjAKnXZtAsfHf/s640/Wool+filter.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Anyway, here's the filter fitted by the folks who rebuilt my engine. A cartridge filter with a thin rubber sealing washer on each end. In theory, a worthwhile upgrade.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV18ipHYfOU3ZaFqC9sri4mZr4nwQOA5naOhkPABTPbv-IDqhSyBQZLT_mZci1e2aeqdPQwlxVm7joFJEvDdjh7Kl861Yte5d3D8VwBjxSEIHF_WarqMcQ2XcRCnVQymTowUd_hQAQ-d8a/s1600/Cartridge+filter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV18ipHYfOU3ZaFqC9sri4mZr4nwQOA5naOhkPABTPbv-IDqhSyBQZLT_mZci1e2aeqdPQwlxVm7joFJEvDdjh7Kl861Yte5d3D8VwBjxSEIHF_WarqMcQ2XcRCnVQymTowUd_hQAQ-d8a/s640/Cartridge+filter.jpg" width="626" /></a></div>
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... and here's the sealing face of one end of that filter - an unfinished, rough cast surface at the bottom of the filter housing. Oil enters the housing through the (highlighted) hole at the top, should travel through the filter and out to the engine through the central hole at the end. But to expect a thin rubber washer to seal adequately on such a rough surface and prevent any oil from bypassing the filter is, at best, optimistic. The wool filter, however, is compressed about 6mm along it's length upon assembly, and would, in my opinion, offer a far better seal on this rough casting.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_v5GL45ndtm6Ax4u9N2VDCDl7ysuWa8Vh-rauSEJONrkjhD3XAvA_ohXqa9bkeDvJ09X2Mr7S-cdZf6ivT7XjaQpnwCBL2Cw7y9BCtsIjGZ4wL5c-ix-5aO9yDoFhCdUWauVKsAj66vV3/s1600/cartridge+filter+seal+face.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_v5GL45ndtm6Ax4u9N2VDCDl7ysuWa8Vh-rauSEJONrkjhD3XAvA_ohXqa9bkeDvJ09X2Mr7S-cdZf6ivT7XjaQpnwCBL2Cw7y9BCtsIjGZ4wL5c-ix-5aO9yDoFhCdUWauVKsAj66vV3/s640/cartridge+filter+seal+face.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's the oil after 300 miles - black and very metallic looking.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqbo7UONsfeqCtY3Ar7m7C2ckeI7vDbAX6jl-w1nO0oqWmQMILN1BEqPG9UEg5Jv9E6C-agac5vCzklFGIpPsvqOWIEGmgHEd_dOCEcRgPpe5m7nrGv2QZ1lvMw8LQ5YfGVVoVwy-xQIV7/s1600/Dirty+oil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqbo7UONsfeqCtY3Ar7m7C2ckeI7vDbAX6jl-w1nO0oqWmQMILN1BEqPG9UEg5Jv9E6C-agac5vCzklFGIpPsvqOWIEGmgHEd_dOCEcRgPpe5m7nrGv2QZ1lvMw8LQ5YfGVVoVwy-xQIV7/s640/Dirty+oil.jpg" width="632" /></a></div>
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... and the magnetic sump drain plug with a significant coating of steel particles. But maybe this is to be expected from a new piston and liner?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqEcEX8WYykl-Zqn8f8otUwNkOKVIO9ZXFfhafSXMGDR__76TNi8PQczHD5P2Dg2Z4VyZ6Kli4EUQt1CpEx65XsLHVPnbZaqqAf_E7x1YFr6O1bhOdPIJ6uy6Sy3bHcHMrdjWab_QM4psg/s1600/Magnetic+drain+plug+soiled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="618" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqEcEX8WYykl-Zqn8f8otUwNkOKVIO9ZXFfhafSXMGDR__76TNi8PQczHD5P2Dg2Z4VyZ6Kli4EUQt1CpEx65XsLHVPnbZaqqAf_E7x1YFr6O1bhOdPIJ6uy6Sy3bHcHMrdjWab_QM4psg/s640/Magnetic+drain+plug+soiled.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's the new oil after 80 miles with the new wool filter installed - more like what I would expect.</div>
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Kinda confirms my theory that for the first 350 mile of my rebuilt engine's life, some of the oil has been bypassing that cartridge filter. Hopefully, no harm done.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmum91nt-c7j_xWYRXpc3uLjsg3mSH1QtxdAuGScVG3Y1EwiYToQfm9IXZPTjYYEpqTQ7fiRLQZkIZmNlX5ZMgr0m9mqwWbNTro8pws1oRpZdNLqzfAGSvlhfV955tCgvHn8eL0MWO85os/s1600/oil+80+miles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmum91nt-c7j_xWYRXpc3uLjsg3mSH1QtxdAuGScVG3Y1EwiYToQfm9IXZPTjYYEpqTQ7fiRLQZkIZmNlX5ZMgr0m9mqwWbNTro8pws1oRpZdNLqzfAGSvlhfV955tCgvHn8eL0MWO85os/s640/oil+80+miles.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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QUICK TIP. Most plastic containers like Yoghurt pots and Butter trays will dissolve if you use them for glues, paints and thinners - but not Milk Cartons. We save 'em all - 1 litre, 2 litre and 4 litre, cut them down and use them as disposable trays for glues, paints, resins and solvents. We haven't found anything to touch them. Salad Cream and Ketchup bottles are pretty good as bench-top 'Gun-wash' or Thinners containers too.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiax8vO_sfUvK4igbhubb7tsvL94XtWCJr8XrL33HR2KruZFzttWTPCgK5xapSby11rw3ZMPxzzY0LxU5yxtt93VcqtNz8ExcV3BYd9w0xiKo6vnwxjWuIcPQkf20IZXtg7qtEL8isv_w4R/s1600/milk+carton+cleaner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiax8vO_sfUvK4igbhubb7tsvL94XtWCJr8XrL33HR2KruZFzttWTPCgK5xapSby11rw3ZMPxzzY0LxU5yxtt93VcqtNz8ExcV3BYd9w0xiKo6vnwxjWuIcPQkf20IZXtg7qtEL8isv_w4R/s640/milk+carton+cleaner.jpg" width="524" /></a></div>
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Once you get a niggle in your mind that something is not quite right with your machine, that noggle shouts at you whenever you look at the machine and is the only thing you see. Your mind will never be at rest until the 'problem' is corrected.</div>
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One of my niggles on the Norvin was the Trident kickstart. It worked fine and mechanically, is the perfect part for the job. The top end and most of the shaft are OK but it's the area around the bottom joint that displeased me - it's just not elegant. The bottom of the lever is crudely and agricultural and it has an ugly, plated steel Cap Head bolt holding it to the poorly-finished, rough and ugly shaft mount.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJoKeAC-Etiva2hccsrwvAbNag9wC3SHHCdByIlSzGrNtrAHDSd13loK7PMMzofohyYkExWFzBRoCnbRHqGR_IwFBkK8zZFGaaTPNDcvDlj0e9QlChcV1rqBVp1e-HdjNTBFV_di4qaAsd/s1600/Trident+kickstart1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJoKeAC-Etiva2hccsrwvAbNag9wC3SHHCdByIlSzGrNtrAHDSd13loK7PMMzofohyYkExWFzBRoCnbRHqGR_IwFBkK8zZFGaaTPNDcvDlj0e9QlChcV1rqBVp1e-HdjNTBFV_di4qaAsd/s640/Trident+kickstart1.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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Time to start some judicious material removal and radiusing of some edges, starting with a 60 grit flap disc on my Makita cordless angle grinder.</div>
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Then onto a 50mm Scotchbrite disc on an Air Die Grinder.<br />
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I used some 240 grit, 50mm wide Emery Cloth to round-off the shaft and external radii. You can see the original copper plating becoming exposed as the high spots are levelled down.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguaqsGJMNnw7byUd8_N4lm40anB_nzapQ1azR0to0ElQjBe9Nmzi7J_MCwP4clo29oNqVYM4hYhUvHQ6uoAr6FmXQYCQVe5pH829iOPRq5fKLcRcYOQWsSGHE5bj0huWuBjixfKIIvqp41/s1600/KS+emery+cloth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguaqsGJMNnw7byUd8_N4lm40anB_nzapQ1azR0to0ElQjBe9Nmzi7J_MCwP4clo29oNqVYM4hYhUvHQ6uoAr6FmXQYCQVe5pH829iOPRq5fKLcRcYOQWsSGHE5bj0huWuBjixfKIIvqp41/s640/KS+emery+cloth.jpg" width="564" /></a></div>
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A regular needle file on the left and a tungsten, half-round file are both useful for removing the cast surface finish.<br />
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..... ready for new chrome plate.</div>
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Here's the modified one on the left with a domed M10 hex bolt, alongside the original on the right.<br />
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The kickstart is a Triumph part and the gearbox is BSA. Although the shaft diameters are the same, the BSA shaft has a deeper cut-out for the cotter retaining pin. I dug around in my workshop and found an offcut of gauge plate, probably left over from a Marconi tool room job forty five years ago.<br />
I made a 1/16" thick shim to build-up the cut-out to the correct dimension for the Triumph kick start.<br />
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I used an Ashford Chrome Plating company and was disappointed with the customer service and plating quality. It's OK though - better than the original.</div>
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Some things niggle-away, almost subconsciously until the reason rises to the surface and you have to do something about it. The 'Oberon', bar-end mirrors are beautifully made and work perfectly but the modern, sharp, machined look and the anodised finish just don't sit in well with the rest of the machine. Problem is, polishing anodised aluminium isn't easy. Anodising leaves a hard surface that is quite difficult to remove - even with good quality wet and dry. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMCu4xJh5AVwXUUFTLHP44f0MEnBgSwTxT29cOVeklNGilZaFJyeTymhTPh7u7E8y_ASyvaCxJ3Ijoz42UwX92GH67v0V_iHwWvaK71wKcwa-MU2WmKx23oD_YfSUBIrHAj9tN3zZl9p5Q/s1600/Oberon+mirror2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMCu4xJh5AVwXUUFTLHP44f0MEnBgSwTxT29cOVeklNGilZaFJyeTymhTPh7u7E8y_ASyvaCxJ3Ijoz42UwX92GH67v0V_iHwWvaK71wKcwa-MU2WmKx23oD_YfSUBIrHAj9tN3zZl9p5Q/s640/Oberon+mirror2.jpg" width="460" /></a></div>
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I have a small bench grinder which has a 6" Scotchbrite disc on one end. This, plus an hour or two of hand fettling with Wet & Dry then polishing, had them looking suitably period and in harmony with the general style of the bike.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgroLSZMdUlD0nWlycTGCsTd40NQWVo_t50qfxRx42succ-vRgY3LPpJeg3ckGtp6VIFh90bfdeUNNc5cLKPI2gUtGrhclMIewo6jBbCIrWqRacYiQwVjDSWlg-MlRwlKQjCJ7tYntZOPro/s1600/Scsotchbrite+disc+on+grinder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="524" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgroLSZMdUlD0nWlycTGCsTd40NQWVo_t50qfxRx42succ-vRgY3LPpJeg3ckGtp6VIFh90bfdeUNNc5cLKPI2gUtGrhclMIewo6jBbCIrWqRacYiQwVjDSWlg-MlRwlKQjCJ7tYntZOPro/s640/Scsotchbrite+disc+on+grinder.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another show and another 'Best Cafe Racer' award.</div>
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That'll do for this post. Next up? Five speed gearbox and electric start? Maybe.</div>
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Neil Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15041603942855623882noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7241217104929214113.post-69776901002365195172016-05-23T04:26:00.000-07:002016-05-24T00:35:07.314-07:00Post No: 8 - On The Road<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: x-large;">Post No: 8 - On The Road</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">my email: neil@cbsonline.co.uk</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">UPDATE MAY 2016</span></div>
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The crap winter and spring weather finally cleared and it warmed-up enough for this old nonce to venture out for an MoT and a few shake-down runs. A couple of niggly oil leaks were dealt with and I eventually sussed how to start the engine on the first kick (or two) without being launched over the handlebars - Tickle the carb until fuel drips from the overflow hole, full choke, quarter throttle and one hefty kick, standing on the left foot-rest with the bike on the prop stand.</div>
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I used the MOTOGADGET's 'Teach' function to calibrate the speedo - Drive along a straight road for ten seconds at 30mph after pressing the button. Easy-peasy and spot on. I'll have to bend the speedo mounting bracket a few more degrees to aim the dial more directly at my face - there's a little too much glare from sky reflections to read the digital display easily.</div>
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So, how does it ride? To be honest, I was expecting to return from my first ride with raging back-ache, my fillings shaken out and with pins and needles in my hands. Not so. The thump of a big single is there but it's a smooth thump which transmits to the handlebars and frame just enough to communicate all the required information to the rider. The low-rev torque is a joy and the standard BSA gearbox ratios work well throughout the rev range. I've never been one to thrash the living shit out of any engine so the Comet's power band suits me to the ground. Neither have I ever been fond of scraping the footrests around corners but I was instantly reminded how well the Norton frame manages 'the wigglies' without a murmur. My choice of straight, Vincent handlebars has, so far, been a success. At speeds of over thirty five-ish, wind pressure on the chest takes much of the weight from the wrists making a sixty-mile ride a pleasure and pain-free.</div>
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Despite fitting SRM's gearbox output shaft oil-seal, one particularly annoying gearbox leak constantly dripped on the rear chain, flinging tiny specs of black oil on the mudguard and seat. I don't fancy removing and stripping the box at this stage, although it will have to be done at some time (maybe with a five-speed conversion?) so I opted to test out a new CBS product - LUCAS TRANSMISSION FIX. This stuff is marketed as an Auto-Box additive but can be used in manual boxes to '<i><b>Reduce leaks, reduce wear and smooth out operation</b></i>'. I drained the old oil, which I was pleased to see, was pretty clean and free of metal dust and suspended particles and filled the gearbox to the level with the new product. Result? Leak reduced and a third gear 'whine' also reduced. Fair enough. </div>
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Total miles so far - about twenty.</div>
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I found myself with a few hours to kill on a reasonably dry and warm Saturday afternoon so I thought I'd take a ride to Bike Show near Ashford - about thirty miles away, where a friend had a bikers clothing stand. (check out 'Taffy Morgan's Clothing Emporium' for some wild T shirts and other bikers gear). The bike performed faultlessly and the rain held-off all but for a few spots.<br />
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.... and surprise, surprise, I won the 'Best Cafe Racer' trophy. Chuffed. Total miles about seventy.<br />
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Neil Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15041603942855623882noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7241217104929214113.post-59205908114195461592015-11-14T02:13:00.000-08:002016-05-23T04:19:56.388-07:00Post No: 7 - Final Other Bits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: x-large;">Post No: 7 - Final Other Bits</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">my email: neil@cbsonline.co.uk</span><br />
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What I've been aiming for throughout this build is simplicity, functionality and elegance. This machine has been put together as a usable bike - not a show bike. I've tried to do everything properly without being too anal about fine detail and absolute perfection of finish. Been there, done that. I've sent off the log book with the cc and engine number change and I'm hoping to be ready for an MoT by the time I get it back from VOSA<br />
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Here's the cast aluminium VINCENT badge on the primary chain case. I masked the outside flange and sand blasted the inner face before shimming it up on my bench absolutely flat and level. I then carefully poured POR15 BlackCote into the recess so it flowed around the lettering. As it started to cure I poured in more paint to achieve a sort of deep, enameled effect, pricking out any air bubbles one at a time with a pin. (That's not too anal is it?). Oops - Just noticed a screw missing.<br />
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Here's how I mounted the new, smaller ammeter. I cut a disc of 3mm aluminium a little bigger than the original 52mm ammeter hole and made a 38mm hole in it for the new ammeter. I bonded it to the inside of the battery housing with 'Fibrefill' - a paste of fine glassfibre strands and resin, available from CBS. At this stage I've dressed it roughly but it'll be filled and smoothed to a seamless, radiused join between the flat aluminium plate to curved fibreglass seat.<br />
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Credit where it's due. We have loads of different aluminium polishes on the workshop shelves and I tried them all on the fuel tank, but this stuff is by far the best. 'Fraid we don't stock it yet but we're on the case.</div>
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I looked around quite a while for an appropriate, good quality dip / horn switch but I just couldn't find one. I fancied an original, 1960's, Wipac 'Tricon' switch but the few I saw for sale on the internet were all well-used and tired or damaged, so I settled for the chrome one on the left. But recently, this 'New, Old Stock' one turned up on ebay for £80 'Buy It Now'. A bit of an indulgence, I know, but sod it.<br />
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It's well made compared to widely-available, modern replicas at less than a quarter of the price, it has a good look and feel and it goes nicely on the bike. I've wired the green button to the horn and left the red one (usually engine kill), unconnected. I can stop the engine by putting my hand over the carb bellmouth.<br />
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I wasn't really happy with the silver paint finish on the GRP seat, even before I modified the Ammeter mount and even as a temporary, aerosol job. Here it is, primed and ready to try this aerosol. Incidentally it's been trimmed but masked over with a bin bag.<br />
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I found the 1 3/4" replica Lucas Ammeter on ebay, shipped direct from India for about 8 quid. It seems very good quality and well made. The screws are, surprisingly, solid brass - not brass-plated steel as found on most cheap, imported instruments. It sits nicely under-flush in the mount.<br />
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I've done a few 'Stitch and Stick' trimming jobs over the years like simple seat squabs and door cards but I thought I'd hand this seat trimming job over to a pro. Mark from M & K Auto Upholstery in Maidstone is an old mate and one of the best trimmers around so he got the job. I specified diamond-quilted, grey Connolly leather with grey stitching, no piping and a little extra padding for my old butt.<br />
And here it is - a cracking job, I think you'll agree.<br />
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A close-up of the stitching. Superb.<br />
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It's down to final tidying and fixing small details now. Like replacing the M12 Hex head bolts on the primary chain case with these Button Head, Hex drive screws.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"> That'll do for now.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">SEE THE NEXT POST FOR UPDATES</span></div>
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Neil Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15041603942855623882noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7241217104929214113.post-41798292151892554432015-10-30T04:15:00.002-07:002015-11-03T00:51:34.465-08:00Post No: 6 - Wiring and Other Bits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: x-large;">Post No: 6 - Wiring and Other Bits</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">my email: neil@cbsonline.co.uk</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">OK folks - on with the wiring then. </span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">There aren't really many components on this bike so</span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> it should all be quiten basic and straightforward. The plan is to have it the cable runs as hidden and discreet as possible without going to the extent of hiding it within the frame tubes. I have my trusty Weller, temperature controlled, Soldering Iron with it's damp pad always handy. I've cut loads of strips of double-sided Velcro to secure the cable runs temporarily along the frame tubes. I have a selection of colours of modern, 0.5mm, 11 Amp, thinwall cable which is</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> much smaller in diameter than regular aftermarket cable so it makes for smaller diameter bundles. I've gathered together a few offcuts of Heat-shrink tubing, Spiral-wrap cable binding and some regular PVC sleeving. All this stuff is available, by the metre, from CBS.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">The stop light switch has screw terminals for the two wires. Fine - it'll work for a while but it's not the best way to wire a component that is not easily accessible and is in a prime position for attack from the elements. The 'Aviation' solution is to dump the screws and solder the wires directly and neatly to the terminals. Feed the wires through the smallest suitable sleeving and 'pot' the whole area with Polyurethane sealant. A wet finger will make a neat finish.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM-cCzDVbNZ5YEnqyyKWg7Jh_CAXaA4UZynPsFLaj6RqK-3H5mirpa9rPnyNlr7PUD4RVM2H03WUC3nYw_UT6UKr9vQ4zrE0YXPFPcBCIcI3pCxFZqlEsC2lnnr_FPim47dyfcPaafutr1/s1600/stop+switch+poly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="496" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM-cCzDVbNZ5YEnqyyKWg7Jh_CAXaA4UZynPsFLaj6RqK-3H5mirpa9rPnyNlr7PUD4RVM2H03WUC3nYw_UT6UKr9vQ4zrE0YXPFPcBCIcI3pCxFZqlEsC2lnnr_FPim47dyfcPaafutr1/s640/stop+switch+poly.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It's tempting to install connectors to each component so the components can be removed or replaced without disturbing the wiring. But I've chosen to go the 'hard-wired' route, running long cables from each component directly to where they will most easily connect to the other components. So, the three wires from the rear light have been fed through sleeving, which has been bonded behind the bead of the rear mudguard, al the way along to the swinging arm where it curls down then back up the inside of the frame side tube along with the alternator feed and the stop light switch wires.<br />
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Here are the three, sleeved cable bundles running up the inside of the frame tube, secured with a nylon 'P' clip.</div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Silly bugger time. I'd measured the potential movement of the swinging arm by the distance between the shocks and their bump-stops. What I didn't take into account is the compression of the rubber bump-stops. This means that it is possible for the rear mudguard to whack my aluminium battery tray if I hit a bump in the road. So, to PLAN B.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZuR0yCcNFXD3ONXz3DY_Zvhg07hcpfUghh8v8oLANmWRHzBtQAG7TUKyE889w_oFJzJ-gxMQemetqtkd1WxibeTL1CLofE0QssALaFW7NGOKso7u_aU9UPQLPyiPBrXdi-R3r0DiREwzH/s1600/Ali+electric+tray+and+battery.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZuR0yCcNFXD3ONXz3DY_Zvhg07hcpfUghh8v8oLANmWRHzBtQAG7TUKyE889w_oFJzJ-gxMQemetqtkd1WxibeTL1CLofE0QssALaFW7NGOKso7u_aU9UPQLPyiPBrXdi-R3r0DiREwzH/s320/Ali+electric+tray+and+battery.jpg" width="301" /></a></div>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">It's still useful to have a tray under the seat so I haven't totally abandoned that idea but the battery will have to be mounted up in the seat hump. Problem is, the hump is not really big enough. So here's the process I used to reshape the hump.</span><br />
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">I first cut away the original hump leaving a hoop around the bottom edge.</span><br />
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I cut an aluminium plate to the new, required height and shape of the hump and Cleko'd it in place. I then cut several, 10mm wide strips of 1mm aluminium and shaped them to form a new dome profile. They were all drilled and Cleko'd at one end and just taped in place at the other end.<br />
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I loosely taped over the outside of the strips with masking tape and laid-up a layer of GRP and resin on the inside. GRP kits are available from CBS.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjISWtC9CfBDKbHWIN0qLubrCBO6ovvkN-lXmN_ywo15OkiyiP77iFJMvvrz36cshuDMKDipB7ej5WBWpr5rhyphenhyphensgxipEp2DnhwFRN0vODHecYN7zc46a6NMexQf6fQggenccCRRFTumH7Tx/s1600/seat+first+layup+inside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjISWtC9CfBDKbHWIN0qLubrCBO6ovvkN-lXmN_ywo15OkiyiP77iFJMvvrz36cshuDMKDipB7ej5WBWpr5rhyphenhyphensgxipEp2DnhwFRN0vODHecYN7zc46a6NMexQf6fQggenccCRRFTumH7Tx/s640/seat+first+layup+inside.jpg" width="626" /></a></div>
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After curing, I removed the tape, revealing a reasonably shaped, new hump.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitRml83kX3MoCt2RezOZvV4JntU3dHrJrFjBrxiRFFc77KMbfWFrw2zrlVjMLHKF-FxOd__CzWUBtEaqzBDTvrYwi4SG_t-mfydvQm2b49UZ1PbZ9HpjCIhKpP5xvucFBaj22ht6IBkwrO/s1600/seat+remove+ali+bits.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitRml83kX3MoCt2RezOZvV4JntU3dHrJrFjBrxiRFFc77KMbfWFrw2zrlVjMLHKF-FxOd__CzWUBtEaqzBDTvrYwi4SG_t-mfydvQm2b49UZ1PbZ9HpjCIhKpP5xvucFBaj22ht6IBkwrO/s640/seat+remove+ali+bits.jpg" width="518" /></a></div>
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All the aluminium pieces were removed and the external surface dressed roughly with a sanding disc on an angle grinder. A couple of layers of woven matting were then laid-up over the outside.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYUVDdbTA7sTRSS19KdRxMbHIW5Y3crygTFNSzJWUN4OFy-GpXvLJH04W5AOeOqlKy-oukhjS91FVmP8L_I-XdtSD8fqJUJWHRMdCPCb08tMPfWotnR07Ns8KfLy3KdsciSXbsGpmk5ez/s1600/woven+mat+on+outside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYUVDdbTA7sTRSS19KdRxMbHIW5Y3crygTFNSzJWUN4OFy-GpXvLJH04W5AOeOqlKy-oukhjS91FVmP8L_I-XdtSD8fqJUJWHRMdCPCb08tMPfWotnR07Ns8KfLy3KdsciSXbsGpmk5ez/s640/woven+mat+on+outside.jpg" width="604" /></a></div>
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After trimming off all the edges and dressing down the highest spots it's time for some body filler in the low areas. When it's cured and rubbed down it'll look something like this.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdo8j4lrJEW6uiATLTNVlgm6RIbAgzGt5LfJqT-MyDRYCIS-LVhV_gcuLagfkBRPrd6o6ZzntbJK9VpQa9pUZhIkr0IrmsnnZlcR_tW9FtykY5vKXEgAmCxZVMD-dH3PbFwd0cWqHJBi-i/s1600/Filling+seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="574" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdo8j4lrJEW6uiATLTNVlgm6RIbAgzGt5LfJqT-MyDRYCIS-LVhV_gcuLagfkBRPrd6o6ZzntbJK9VpQa9pUZhIkr0IrmsnnZlcR_tW9FtykY5vKXEgAmCxZVMD-dH3PbFwd0cWqHJBi-i/s640/Filling+seat.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It's now just down to filling and sanding in ever finer and smoother steps. A light coat of Matt Black aerosol paint before rubbing down will highlight any low areas still needing filler. The perfection level depends on the final finish you're after. Painted finish will require much finer surface preparation than say, leather trim.<br />
If you're generating a three dimensional shape like this from scratch, here's a useful tip to refine the finish and identify the highs and lows. Just close your eyes and use the palm of your hand. You'll feel the surface undulations much better than you can see them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKTkLprJQj83grEgp9i_E0aG-WCOErRaNzKQARiEoqEVLGWEPLEKeb_792q8MtupZwaj5QBBBUBHuuxnQttOn8aFqvntk1R8Pj5w_VPoSMe3zDCoYYEEsegL8tMyySaq77AvRTlqXUPwav/s1600/matt+black+seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="568" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKTkLprJQj83grEgp9i_E0aG-WCOErRaNzKQARiEoqEVLGWEPLEKeb_792q8MtupZwaj5QBBBUBHuuxnQttOn8aFqvntk1R8Pj5w_VPoSMe3zDCoYYEEsegL8tMyySaq77AvRTlqXUPwav/s640/matt+black+seat.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Several 'fill and rubs' later it's finally good enough for one last coat of filler primer.</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtnIVP0stE16NsH5iLyQC3wf_YqoBKr9I5ltCaxzLFigGqrgV55cTB_49I0cwgGXtzpQap9xPSb8ynrPn5x7uV9bMT57-l5oeGdyMoeaSWiDl0eITzRWeRSb4hXdeg2cuPbzSh1EMjm1UQ/s1600/dappled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtnIVP0stE16NsH5iLyQC3wf_YqoBKr9I5ltCaxzLFigGqrgV55cTB_49I0cwgGXtzpQap9xPSb8ynrPn5x7uV9bMT57-l5oeGdyMoeaSWiDl0eITzRWeRSb4hXdeg2cuPbzSh1EMjm1UQ/s640/dappled.jpg" width="618" /></a><br />
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This is very good stuff. (available from CBS) Don't worry about runs, just spray it on until you cover the minor imperfections. You can even spray an area a rub it in to pinholes and scratches with your finger, then spray a bit more on top. I'll rub it down wet with 400 Wet and Dry on the palm of my hand.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmQg92L1w9P9DUBDmHe3RV4wgKlQULCPyIBqx1IjugEprRXwmuzZGiyhVR5UW6rlb21h5GAKrjMB5Frg1GlfLhYXFXmN9XgPj8oAblB2zVu-lyOe7S0l2uOj5B9lFdgMXe_d5btgYi09dx/s1600/filler+primer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="520" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmQg92L1w9P9DUBDmHe3RV4wgKlQULCPyIBqx1IjugEprRXwmuzZGiyhVR5UW6rlb21h5GAKrjMB5Frg1GlfLhYXFXmN9XgPj8oAblB2zVu-lyOe7S0l2uOj5B9lFdgMXe_d5btgYi09dx/s640/filler+primer.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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OK, as I've mentioned, the plan is to store the battery in the seat hump so I'll make an access panel to get it in and out - and maybe even store a couple of tools and a rag. I've carefully measured and marked the opening size with a fine pen and masking tape and I've used a 25mm washer to mark the radiused corners. Here, I'm using a 1mm drill in my Dremel to drill a dozen or so holes around every corner. A good quality drill bit will also cut sideways so you can carefully 'rout' between the holes, cutting through the whole corner.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic8HampHLJcK_tvyoNnDUT-BBhgg6vKMVNKrNEegqEaQAIhacR4K96POIRA8UXUwzGbnp09GYo9pIT_bI0tvUdK6JHsG0__f28aCbd27MxzvUvdBJNaITBX6SVHwtnNSox7-NXTVSCau2K/s1600/dremel+drilling.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic8HampHLJcK_tvyoNnDUT-BBhgg6vKMVNKrNEegqEaQAIhacR4K96POIRA8UXUwzGbnp09GYo9pIT_bI0tvUdK6JHsG0__f28aCbd27MxzvUvdBJNaITBX6SVHwtnNSox7-NXTVSCau2K/s640/dremel+drilling.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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A fine-tooth, new hacksaw blade will cut cleanly most of the way through the straight lines. I removed the blade from the frame and finished the cuts by hand with the blade alone.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM5rwYfPov8xUfAVVFHSkVrTgZa70B71WMz0lDZL7Klcbq4jEAmQU0s1oYmeEbgzP_8nF_5c1M60TU4ZZzBmJchdbfwlHuk_7iYlqFxKLcYeTkCDVp6VJwyOeED90hDv9eXw5PGQbonJq4/s1600/hacksaw+door.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM5rwYfPov8xUfAVVFHSkVrTgZa70B71WMz0lDZL7Klcbq4jEAmQU0s1oYmeEbgzP_8nF_5c1M60TU4ZZzBmJchdbfwlHuk_7iYlqFxKLcYeTkCDVp6VJwyOeED90hDv9eXw5PGQbonJq4/s640/hacksaw+door.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">I cut a pair of 1mm aluminium side supports for the lid and riveted them on the inside with under-flush, countersunk rivets and a smear of Polyurethane adhesive/sealant.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1-c_tqndGUmlcTYvN1iXEZ0mfrlXlcLUxMWAfuuR1Sm5qK6czn9JzWwV0iQ7maiJ2eoj-2DF7-KItVenUNhyphenhyphenNskx9tZlnJt31NVu0hqFgeqz5Tam_PuhMUnlSRETOAgvCr12Q_rYDqbXL/s1600/lid+supports+inside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1-c_tqndGUmlcTYvN1iXEZ0mfrlXlcLUxMWAfuuR1Sm5qK6czn9JzWwV0iQ7maiJ2eoj-2DF7-KItVenUNhyphenhyphenNskx9tZlnJt31NVu0hqFgeqz5Tam_PuhMUnlSRETOAgvCr12Q_rYDqbXL/s640/lid+supports+inside.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I made a cardboard template for the battery support tray and transferred the shape to a piece of 1mm aluminium. I trimmed and folded it to fit fairly accurately on the inside of the seat hump.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwe4knjDNOxRimSheka-D1YkGsCf6TnyoyxK1x5tXndaSgZwJqhf0BzQyMc5Ow7BXi1zHg_D1pkvuvdy7IDhI7shhYwWIXDXdeB2qf3RRA8sEp09wiUjF1eRgBS3jbhHG6VXYrlo72Aa34/s1600/Ali+batty+shelf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="578" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwe4knjDNOxRimSheka-D1YkGsCf6TnyoyxK1x5tXndaSgZwJqhf0BzQyMc5Ow7BXi1zHg_D1pkvuvdy7IDhI7shhYwWIXDXdeB2qf3RRA8sEp09wiUjF1eRgBS3jbhHG6VXYrlo72Aa34/s640/Ali+batty+shelf.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A couple of layers of CGP matting around the edges will bond it and seal it neatly in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu5NJijMSGf2kwavI19W17GS0FXemJgYCzaEpFUaYOyJf9AwYugBoXHVBOhZqPHGTPg0S5e0-sTy4wagje55Cek2LLJS4LVohAjZllpBlDq0QdHFAqK_nbSC0houYZP1fLPBsXTs_dxut5/s1600/batty+shelf+GRPd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu5NJijMSGf2kwavI19W17GS0FXemJgYCzaEpFUaYOyJf9AwYugBoXHVBOhZqPHGTPg0S5e0-sTy4wagje55Cek2LLJS4LVohAjZllpBlDq0QdHFAqK_nbSC0houYZP1fLPBsXTs_dxut5/s640/batty+shelf+GRPd.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I fitted a CBS Glove Box Latch to the lid and riveted another strip of aluminium to the bottom edge as a retainer.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdvHvKWS1Qn0X8aYtdXdWkK7uCwP7qd3tjanJBzdRBsoEU_njvEiYsbcBZCq5COi4EqwCajyOloed2EZSITbEltEAPo-nFyLYY937hhanthtofMVgjdc2RMxbTeuxu6RXGJlh1J1kfAXJt/s1600/seat+assembled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="622" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdvHvKWS1Qn0X8aYtdXdWkK7uCwP7qd3tjanJBzdRBsoEU_njvEiYsbcBZCq5COi4EqwCajyOloed2EZSITbEltEAPo-nFyLYY937hhanthtofMVgjdc2RMxbTeuxu6RXGJlh1J1kfAXJt/s640/seat+assembled.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
You can just see that I've dressed down some areas around the inside edge of the lid to make it fit flush when it's fitted.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQwfero5cIj7B6uC2PVMxZTWSrNoQcAZs5feU9FdX7s00WqKEMRgmWCQwHoJ0S_MVQIcloPlMsVNoD4C9bWfEz2LTs3BZdTxMMHzmc53GjrqjNpPJ-CDvvnfH3HpmeFJ-Ny5hoNHmSQKcM/s1600/seat+opened.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQwfero5cIj7B6uC2PVMxZTWSrNoQcAZs5feU9FdX7s00WqKEMRgmWCQwHoJ0S_MVQIcloPlMsVNoD4C9bWfEz2LTs3BZdTxMMHzmc53GjrqjNpPJ-CDvvnfH3HpmeFJ-Ny5hoNHmSQKcM/s640/seat+opened.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And here's the battery it situ. I've lined the inside of the compartment with small pieces of CBS self-adhesive foam sheet and I've cut 'packing' pieces from some dense grey foam that I found in the workshop. A small block of the foam on top of the battery will hold it down when the lid is closed. There is no other battery clamping required. I made a little (white) 'slipper' plate for the latch from PTFE sheet and riveted it to the inside. You can see that I've filled over all the under-flush rivet heads ready for rubbing down and painting.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQchDowWJkzbScFIzxuscspxRNdq7kmgG8O4BayxHfUmnCf_NhsiNHUuhOpbHQAhQtjDJeRRQZEQgKVRwbldZFCKY6qtOa_xDuSN7fq8LYcCkI0GwjTAWs0FtQoPSdmtr8jE-VwE4PSn0Q/s1600/battery.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="606" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQchDowWJkzbScFIzxuscspxRNdq7kmgG8O4BayxHfUmnCf_NhsiNHUuhOpbHQAhQtjDJeRRQZEQgKVRwbldZFCKY6qtOa_xDuSN7fq8LYcCkI0GwjTAWs0FtQoPSdmtr8jE-VwE4PSn0Q/s640/battery.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A quick dust over with CBS Silver Engine Paint, then Clear Lacquer. That'll do for now. I'll sort the trimming out then look at painting it properly with two-pack.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF-ReZyfbJx6haEh53HYktngXgkgqtcTf7s5gM8raLD_8VsUTh_agpC9PQLMCGgVbLo1loNAawOLGQm4li09FLsPjyJKglnaqhyyEm2iqcOdwzJe-w8TtSauLd7jjYnXY-CWgkEX3I1MKa/s1600/seat+done.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF-ReZyfbJx6haEh53HYktngXgkgqtcTf7s5gM8raLD_8VsUTh_agpC9PQLMCGgVbLo1loNAawOLGQm4li09FLsPjyJKglnaqhyyEm2iqcOdwzJe-w8TtSauLd7jjYnXY-CWgkEX3I1MKa/s640/seat+done.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">The front mudguard and it's brackets have proven to be a bit of a problem. I don't really like the black, powder-coated one that came with the rolling frame. It's wire support and rubber mountings are clumsy and over-engineered. The stainless one I bought is heavy and poorly shaped and it's riveted-on bracket is nowhere near the right shape and size, despite being a sold as a 'T140' item.</span></div>
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So, here's the latest, aluminium one. It's radius is just about right for a neat, parallel fit around the tyre with about a 1/2" gap. It's light and quite nicely shaped. I bought a chrome T140 mount on ebay that looked the part but was waaaaay the wrong size. I don't know if the problem is mine - being wrong about what forks I have, or if folks are just selling universal stuff and declaring it suitable for all sorts of different bikes. Anyway - my ebay account will be busy selling on all this stuff when this bike is finished.</div>
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So, to make some simple and elegant mounting brackets for it. I cut a couple of short lengths of 10mm rubber fuel hose and wedged them inside the mudguard - front and back. Then set the mudguard on the tyre and held it in position with some bungees. It's a good, secure, temporary mount that will allow me to make some brackets. </div>
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First, as usual, a paper template. I used a piece of folded paper and drew the front half of the bracket on it in pencil, cut out the shape with scissors and opened out the fold, giving a perfectly symmetrical shape. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioJBIG41CgTy9M8VGK7kGUZhI7fN50X309scZBn8f1_baOAHc_gJEIxSWn7FBz8z-14XbBRgyjVADCNIX-S0uymcrFAh_-NM6RW_Uc0yipHSmXcmneWRWUjMdKE6UaKxyxwzs7UGSH_owK/s1600/front+mudguard+bkt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioJBIG41CgTy9M8VGK7kGUZhI7fN50X309scZBn8f1_baOAHc_gJEIxSWn7FBz8z-14XbBRgyjVADCNIX-S0uymcrFAh_-NM6RW_Uc0yipHSmXcmneWRWUjMdKE6UaKxyxwzs7UGSH_owK/s640/front+mudguard+bkt.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I roughly cut two pieces from 2mm aluminium, drilled the four mounting holes and bolted them together. My linisher rollers are a good size for dressing down the curves.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWWIvXzBHIiqrZ-81ONb5eRX_Z8eFtQO_TMwSC4LPrMPXxbNYxLNpc67vn0EfoZoZa4XZuS-Ba3crKotlnEMRqJm3Fqin9YXdJeLJ8gFlAXhjozj4WrVJ3QQNDJHwzrzffVCdXpYjmggdz/s1600/linishing+front+mudguard+bkt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWWIvXzBHIiqrZ-81ONb5eRX_Z8eFtQO_TMwSC4LPrMPXxbNYxLNpc67vn0EfoZoZa4XZuS-Ba3crKotlnEMRqJm3Fqin9YXdJeLJ8gFlAXhjozj4WrVJ3QQNDJHwzrzffVCdXpYjmggdz/s640/linishing+front+mudguard+bkt.jpg" width="614" /></a></div>
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I annealed the top ends of the brackets so they would bend easily in-situ to the shape of the mudguard. I found a few stainless M6 coach bolts so I filed the mounting holes square, cut the bolts short and bolted it together with rubber washers and nylocs on the inside.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIjPCo-Qtc6snmfW55taRQFkU_gwld6cEJmMBTLXqDIhZN-wyt7QFZFsJBINZ4m93_8seWVbFqyjVyAqda8b8RD5Mr6oeqa7qmCXMEGSapxOt2g_Axzw5YKsYTQpZQFS0uwTXEeIrit6hJ/s1600/coach+bolts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIjPCo-Qtc6snmfW55taRQFkU_gwld6cEJmMBTLXqDIhZN-wyt7QFZFsJBINZ4m93_8seWVbFqyjVyAqda8b8RD5Mr6oeqa7qmCXMEGSapxOt2g_Axzw5YKsYTQpZQFS0uwTXEeIrit6hJ/s640/coach+bolts.jpg" width="622" /></a></div>
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Yup - pleased with that. Just needs a good polish-up. I'm wondering if I should have made the mounting brackets from 3mm instead of 2mm. We'll see if they break.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivCaDPyUN6LeOZ0yNGqQ4XtpIqzF2Cmb8o8ZcDjDegYFT7QrjMSPlpIwqZUr3ncxczApOcRIJ51zY8MUBoliMRrF5gScZnaqAlg8sUdGpb5QhLrYexdCslTEspZlnRbIZZOxB76hDVqmUJ/s1600/fornt+mudguard+finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivCaDPyUN6LeOZ0yNGqQ4XtpIqzF2Cmb8o8ZcDjDegYFT7QrjMSPlpIwqZUr3ncxczApOcRIJ51zY8MUBoliMRrF5gScZnaqAlg8sUdGpb5QhLrYexdCslTEspZlnRbIZZOxB76hDVqmUJ/s640/fornt+mudguard+finished.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">On with the wiring than. I welded a couple of mounts for the horn and Regulator to the seat cross bar.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcCGBPhV7iB1xj6uPXkKbqkp2ujfFCPQ8g4xIB5M_tBSrzRwqhOcTHFWS_q7kGEk5IKgJxeOk4s6PtlAGkvxwDXwS4mDv3O9XhHb-bs8Op_WlQfZZ7AwO3Q8GHndzXEJtei6L00bqdSGYW/s1600/horn+and+regulator+mounts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="414" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcCGBPhV7iB1xj6uPXkKbqkp2ujfFCPQ8g4xIB5M_tBSrzRwqhOcTHFWS_q7kGEk5IKgJxeOk4s6PtlAGkvxwDXwS4mDv3O9XhHb-bs8Op_WlQfZZ7AwO3Q8GHndzXEJtei6L00bqdSGYW/s640/horn+and+regulator+mounts.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Replacing the wires in the Horn / Dip Switch with thin-wall cable will reduce the cable bundle diameter by half. And soldering them will improve reliability.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4FxnxWSXstIXLMoFgvdYCAb4uvsmeHOnH2J8fyWcXzAX-esd-VkaRgqOBMeI8VQxU-qfGtS7sbqF37jEcDYhyphenhyphenwWNVp1Y5xh93p8GqjWZ3dRytDPLBDM5u4GgELKpr61DtZoLpqenum9zm/s1600/dipswitch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4FxnxWSXstIXLMoFgvdYCAb4uvsmeHOnH2J8fyWcXzAX-esd-VkaRgqOBMeI8VQxU-qfGtS7sbqF37jEcDYhyphenhyphenwWNVp1Y5xh93p8GqjWZ3dRytDPLBDM5u4GgELKpr61DtZoLpqenum9zm/s640/dipswitch.jpg" width="628" /></a></div>
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I drilled the headlamp bowl and installed a replica Lucas paddle toggle switch for the lights - just ON / OFF - I won't bother with a side light. Below the light switch is a momentary push-button switch for programming the Motogadget instrument. Both are CBS items.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZQWaiRY-hxyrrWF3XMSEwHCZ1V7YNTeJc5YakL0ahMhB13iRP_CczdP_8ZVYZN5xlFoyRRCPjjjXWBKSgRPhV1xliTx068LjLliOQpHTyDFOEVQk4dIHJliZFTogNi6BrbQg__HW38Txr/s1600/headlamp+switches.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZQWaiRY-hxyrrWF3XMSEwHCZ1V7YNTeJc5YakL0ahMhB13iRP_CczdP_8ZVYZN5xlFoyRRCPjjjXWBKSgRPhV1xliTx068LjLliOQpHTyDFOEVQk4dIHJliZFTogNi6BrbQg__HW38Txr/s640/headlamp+switches.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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There are five wires on the LED headlamp so it made sense to wire it into a multi-pin plug and socket. This six-way one with 1/4" spades is part of the CBS range.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9zRwwtw-UeuF_c5vLYUifNvFhACMhHtjYJqiG7tWe53JmEmGBWTJDtH6OxwqYTwKkqcubtne7pGHZjoSJEUoPcgMihMDydH2wm8zcJgh_X7Hx0zv26XYtDgYjO1Kn1bTKNySzs7V4ZkgG/s1600/HL+multipin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9zRwwtw-UeuF_c5vLYUifNvFhACMhHtjYJqiG7tWe53JmEmGBWTJDtH6OxwqYTwKkqcubtne7pGHZjoSJEUoPcgMihMDydH2wm8zcJgh_X7Hx0zv26XYtDgYjO1Kn1bTKNySzs7V4ZkgG/s640/HL+multipin.jpg" width="566" /></a></div>
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I wired it all up temporarily using CBS 'QCON' quick connectors for the multiple live and earth cables. The wires will be shortened and tidied up once it's all checked out OK.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid1wtubqTrWOOHWdvPFlvIHa5x-GL6-ut8AdZB4Hpl04SHAX4BzKQTIxtEq64pJCKvwzXfV2XJ6omdkK4FFvxOolyqSXiJVIPugFr2N-ZAOLA2n6c-Sxi1pQQxQiuYT1_l02lUqNrL52eB/s1600/headlamp+temp+wiring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid1wtubqTrWOOHWdvPFlvIHa5x-GL6-ut8AdZB4Hpl04SHAX4BzKQTIxtEq64pJCKvwzXfV2XJ6omdkK4FFvxOolyqSXiJVIPugFr2N-ZAOLA2n6c-Sxi1pQQxQiuYT1_l02lUqNrL52eB/s640/headlamp+temp+wiring.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The same at the back. The 'Veethree' GPS speedo sender is mounted on bracket with a clear 'view' of the sky through the GRP seat. They recommend installation with no steel or metal above it. I wonder if that includes my two Titanium hip joints. I've fitted an inline fuse holder with a 20 Amp fuse and a temporary Ammeter in the +12 volt battery feed line. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil1w7GJssMKPF4vzBLQc8gyS_ujYhVCR-QEKxHSzPQR97YhMzPsV8xcAMzj6sDZkbvPCv6ZrRXMahLxEYYjXpzC_wOXdB-IQZoHhZG2isqM9zIv8gQmyyoWSqNi5OVlA5SitvJPNo5UzIF/s1600/rear+wiring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil1w7GJssMKPF4vzBLQc8gyS_ujYhVCR-QEKxHSzPQR97YhMzPsV8xcAMzj6sDZkbvPCv6ZrRXMahLxEYYjXpzC_wOXdB-IQZoHhZG2isqM9zIv8gQmyyoWSqNi5OVlA5SitvJPNo5UzIF/s640/rear+wiring.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I've ran the front to back wires along the inside of the top frame rail. They will eventually be wrapped or sleeved. The large grey cable is from the GPS sensor to the Motogadget instrument. All other wires are thin-wall.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhwyE8jw9uM8CkMjG9JPBzllvqsy7fPKLe5N15Q0WAuz4hSVemAkrgSV67H9XG0AL63FNZO5DoeTeE2lYoOODSG8jQNkTF3TkZpfdtPlCGj_73IZkDtrCj5tuCN_zVSDrMk_xHT2ydgmoZ/s1600/wiring+central.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhwyE8jw9uM8CkMjG9JPBzllvqsy7fPKLe5N15Q0WAuz4hSVemAkrgSV67H9XG0AL63FNZO5DoeTeE2lYoOODSG8jQNkTF3TkZpfdtPlCGj_73IZkDtrCj5tuCN_zVSDrMk_xHT2ydgmoZ/s640/wiring+central.jpg" width="412" /></a></div>
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The main, analogue display on the Motogadget instrument shows RPM up to 8,000 rpm. The dual-line digital display always shows speed on the top line. The bottom line is selectable for various functions - here it's set to read Volts. Not sure why the Green Neutral and Red warning lights are on - they shouldn't be.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2doQ-eV3XMyJmmjURnvjPQO5uY9h-Zm74V_FB-ZPuol8JbX2ps5fzEZNCmst9qhdveGLrl1rlzqeN9EJXat-n6eofBaIXpN9FWuIU3jGa7iBbyXvAIX8cE9IzrWIP6_B9wzfIyb4mVs2/s1600/motogadget+live.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2doQ-eV3XMyJmmjURnvjPQO5uY9h-Zm74V_FB-ZPuol8JbX2ps5fzEZNCmst9qhdveGLrl1rlzqeN9EJXat-n6eofBaIXpN9FWuIU3jGa7iBbyXvAIX8cE9IzrWIP6_B9wzfIyb4mVs2/s640/motogadget+live.jpg" width="618" /></a></div>
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Here, I'm wrapping the front to back wires with our 'Spiral Wrap'. It's available in three sizes and is brilliant for tidying and protecting looms or even single wires. You can spur-off or add wires easily.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLsbYbr_sZXmu7efrQP-0LyzQKFR5NRY7MV7K8G8PD8CM7MWBVZRHbJCOkwNCjra03WsvQkdXcBUBPNCHezI9me9IIlMQpuD7-cIJyZUkIdNamjCKziL6KOfGCFXZEfzZkGWjjBsCYe4qv/s1600/spiral+wrap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLsbYbr_sZXmu7efrQP-0LyzQKFR5NRY7MV7K8G8PD8CM7MWBVZRHbJCOkwNCjra03WsvQkdXcBUBPNCHezI9me9IIlMQpuD7-cIJyZUkIdNamjCKziL6KOfGCFXZEfzZkGWjjBsCYe4qv/s640/spiral+wrap.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I can select 'Volts' to read on the Motogadget instrument but I'm happier with a simple ammeter to tell me what's going on in the charging department. I don't want one on the handlebars so I thought I'd install one directly connected to the battery, in the seat. Here, I've temporarily fitted a 2" Durite one from the CBS range but I've ordered a smaller one which will sit a bit more discreetly, under-flush inside the seat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpCFEjXC5OX8JthLan8DPkTdewt7iTEqpK59qAgv9zHw_Gg2ia0H-70kwZxFp4E6onsJjlq-rkFe8ojKmqNjbt3A_jP02GRL5R8rw7JjyMw3PgBNf3Ms9iaWTLcZVO6hVSnNqkj0bh1MfL/s1600/ammeter+in+seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpCFEjXC5OX8JthLan8DPkTdewt7iTEqpK59qAgv9zHw_Gg2ia0H-70kwZxFp4E6onsJjlq-rkFe8ojKmqNjbt3A_jP02GRL5R8rw7JjyMw3PgBNf3Ms9iaWTLcZVO6hVSnNqkj0bh1MfL/s640/ammeter+in+seat.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I don't have, or need an ignition switch but I do need a switch to turn off the Instrument and it's associated electronic bits - the GPS sender and the RPM pick-up. This is a simple, Micro ON/OFF toggle switch from the CBS range, mounted in a 6mm hole in the headlamp shell.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrWhJmZPufGWXd9TquFO_wTBR08kYOWfKmq9LvuatWXdck-cGHc3vgiya4wX9LRYkRw8aphXHPPPquRGqBnMoopQ4JFRE4C9kAoXrm622eBDCfK5s8F9yjacKwuFr-So3qv77yRSMSU6GZ/s1600/instrument+switch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrWhJmZPufGWXd9TquFO_wTBR08kYOWfKmq9LvuatWXdck-cGHc3vgiya4wX9LRYkRw8aphXHPPPquRGqBnMoopQ4JFRE4C9kAoXrm622eBDCfK5s8F9yjacKwuFr-So3qv77yRSMSU6GZ/s640/instrument+switch.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">I wasn't happy with the mirror mounting the first time I installed it. I've already lost an expensive stainless mirror from my Rocket because the mounting system was crap and this looked no better. It came with an expanding brass, split cone and a split aluminium sleeve. An M6 bolt through the mount is supposed to pull it all together to open the cone and tighten it and the sleeve inside the handle bar. But, because it only expands and clamped at the very end of the bars it could be wiggled loose easily. With the Comet's vibration, it would soon fall off.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4MhepKfbPBISTfJd8yootshKSBBVaz7_vqOKTxgVLHGJAu2pIjb6Fpmiiy4KdbdwRbqg1skxmcU7VNMYKmFBxR9GOuGZRrh5uujrYXw5gxTm7QZS6h9pHUVENlZQPNOVYpSeZPI3P48rq/s1600/mirror+fix+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4MhepKfbPBISTfJd8yootshKSBBVaz7_vqOKTxgVLHGJAu2pIjb6Fpmiiy4KdbdwRbqg1skxmcU7VNMYKmFBxR9GOuGZRrh5uujrYXw5gxTm7QZS6h9pHUVENlZQPNOVYpSeZPI3P48rq/s640/mirror+fix+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I made a new, long split sleeve and ground a groove along it's length for clearance of the welding seam inside the handlebars (most bars are made from seamed tube). This then acted like a key-way to prevent the sleeve turning inside the bar. I offered-up the mount to get the correct orientation for the mirror head and fixed it to the sleeve with M3 screws then ground the heads off. I silver soldered a nut in the end of the split brass cone to make it solid. Much better.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1bBwMWH25XmK3VfEtT8aEYBn_hC_usXfCj2r0s9hOaZVLPXHvMovODuQRdwITY-XukZR5ilvMHmzlrAd8Elus-xaHhNBfU2i0BMwhyphenhyphenT2SvPziegW8BBBHgM9erevNy10Nvzng352RVobK/s1600/mirror+fixing+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1bBwMWH25XmK3VfEtT8aEYBn_hC_usXfCj2r0s9hOaZVLPXHvMovODuQRdwITY-XukZR5ilvMHmzlrAd8Elus-xaHhNBfU2i0BMwhyphenhyphenT2SvPziegW8BBBHgM9erevNy10Nvzng352RVobK/s640/mirror+fixing+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Well, that'll about do it for this post. There's only the seat to trim and re-paint and the speedo to set up using the instrument's 'Teach' function. The ride to our local MoT tester is about five miles so that'll be a fair shake-down. Laters.</div>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>Neil Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15041603942855623882noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7241217104929214113.post-42235348567500022802015-10-13T06:52:00.005-07:002015-10-13T08:00:13.511-07:00Post No: 5 - Even More Other Bits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKXtm9T5pvcpRn_2TMEMOY7l8_2BxAn6MLKegxbo5rPyPQtsi9rLyvmZzJrYIqasbkl2wUuyeWUOzLyxydZpjfeXVwgSaV1PmsLO0K1b8cKkwachhQqdEDeLba9egLbj8zdrpyIhjzuBr/s1600/NORVIN+CBS+LOGO.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="62" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKXtm9T5pvcpRn_2TMEMOY7l8_2BxAn6MLKegxbo5rPyPQtsi9rLyvmZzJrYIqasbkl2wUuyeWUOzLyxydZpjfeXVwgSaV1PmsLO0K1b8cKkwachhQqdEDeLba9egLbj8zdrpyIhjzuBr/s400/NORVIN+CBS+LOGO.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: x-large;">Post No: 5 - Even More Other Bits</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">my email: neil@cbsonline.co.uk</span><br />
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We're back on the ramp to sort out a few of the teething troubles that arose on yesterday's test ride. First an oil leak from the area of the return banjo feeding the rockers. I at first suspected a dodgy 'O' clip around the short rubber hose on the banjo but when I removed the banjo my suspicions turned to the inboard Dowty washer on the banjo, Dowty washers have a raised, rubber ring bonded around the inside diameter of the steel washer which seals on the two mating surfaces - in this case, the banjo and the crankcase, as the banjo bolt is tightened - usually a brilliant seal. The problem here is that the inner edge of the hole through the banjo has a significant chamfer - right where the dowty's rubber bit would seal. Hence metal to metal contact and no effective seal. Oh well, so much for modern technology. I annealed a couple of copper washers and replaced the Dowtys.<br />
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Part of the starting procedure with old British bikes is 'tickling the carb' which inevitably results in a few cc's of fuel dripping over the engine or gearbox - or in my case, directly onto and into the alternator. Not good. My RGS has a stainless tray, sandwiched between the carb and inlet manifold, with a drain pipe down to frame level. The Comet offered no such simple fixings for a tray so I made this stainless 'gutter' from a section cut from some 38mm diameter stainless tube. I silver soldered end pieces and a 8mm drain tube with some clear PVC pipe down through the gaps to road level. It's held in place under the carb with an 'O' ring. Simple and (hopefully) effective,<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj8XX4CuTg1JBysZOx0AkOCTPbchqV0qBkfoLHk7eHEWS7n1pXS241LGW0u1z1iVohyphenhyphenbnshJyacBIlGVaiZb3x8KlqVXt0AEoCPcc6hLp68xtaXx74U_m-pCO12zzTUNRlTQUVLFF9kCwF/s1600/Fuel+drip+tray.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="546" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj8XX4CuTg1JBysZOx0AkOCTPbchqV0qBkfoLHk7eHEWS7n1pXS241LGW0u1z1iVohyphenhyphenbnshJyacBIlGVaiZb3x8KlqVXt0AEoCPcc6hLp68xtaXx74U_m-pCO12zzTUNRlTQUVLFF9kCwF/s640/Fuel+drip+tray.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I bought a stainless rear mudguard but I didn't like it. It was poorly manufactured and like the rejected front one, not symmetrical. So, Plan B - an aluminium rear mudguard - but it had a formed 'dent' in it to clear the swinging arm. I offered it up and decided it didn't need the dent so I beat it out.</div>
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Here, I'm annealing it with my Propane torch. I heated the local area until a piece of pine softwood just leaves a black burn line when stroked across the metal. Allowing it to cool naturally leaves the aluminium soft enough to reshape.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbWOl3mNfaB0qCWtCTKRaApIabkbiKeHhuXXYjNVqxYdqm_D_lxWQDdoDbskP4CjKDqve25w2LZhYsYrW-vbwuV_wItlDiH3Uu7WOh1mGBRtqbhOEI67IKKRE0pC8dsQknKr-weYifDIR/s1600/Annealing+rear+mudguard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbWOl3mNfaB0qCWtCTKRaApIabkbiKeHhuXXYjNVqxYdqm_D_lxWQDdoDbskP4CjKDqve25w2LZhYsYrW-vbwuV_wItlDiH3Uu7WOh1mGBRtqbhOEI67IKKRE0pC8dsQknKr-weYifDIR/s640/Annealing+rear+mudguard.jpg" width="638" /></a></div>
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I beat out most of the dent with a round rubber mallet on a leather sandbag.<br />
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Then finished planishing it on a freshly dressed Dolly and panel-beaters hammer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKjB7vXyxKcHkkptDUIncK1PhpU06RgxnxtGXGXcJ2NoNGpsdwM6Ik7o_u9yjT-ne6qDqZfMVFPAmU99eYGmSMRgQbKQZUjObIld9N3l0e3sMXSLVmAm3me6m6OD8Lc1rywXUIrIkFoMIZ/s1600/Dolly+guard+and+hammer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKjB7vXyxKcHkkptDUIncK1PhpU06RgxnxtGXGXcJ2NoNGpsdwM6Ik7o_u9yjT-ne6qDqZfMVFPAmU99eYGmSMRgQbKQZUjObIld9N3l0e3sMXSLVmAm3me6m6OD8Lc1rywXUIrIkFoMIZ/s640/Dolly+guard+and+hammer.jpg" width="616" /></a></div>
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A set of shiny new VIncent Valve Covers arrived yesterday so I set about making a spanner from some 1/4" aluminium that I had left over from the engine mounts. I clamped the plate onto my rotary table and, with a 6mm slot drill, plunged through the plate and made a cut before turning the table 60 degrees to make the second cut - etcetera until the 41mm A/F hexagon was complete. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1tvPjb9HaZ6urIPVajeZ0_H3tTCGpqZmOeouu6C1WgTCkqTVCRl2ZsJ767pOrjkOq6wr4xrYvXSKNsQPwjqgD6ZCa1QWQre580hfZYtQJw7k7UoOiINQ5MgmwqQmKOdpoUO2BoKgFyxRV/s1600/Hex+spanner+step+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1tvPjb9HaZ6urIPVajeZ0_H3tTCGpqZmOeouu6C1WgTCkqTVCRl2ZsJ767pOrjkOq6wr4xrYvXSKNsQPwjqgD6ZCa1QWQre580hfZYtQJw7k7UoOiINQ5MgmwqQmKOdpoUO2BoKgFyxRV/s640/Hex+spanner+step+1.jpg" width="534" /></a></div>
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I dressed out the corners with a file then roughly trimmed it on the bandsaw and linished it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjegxLtJh7tLGw6B2SHBloss6N4m3kSnSnkBr9hReIoxZKPi1xC98gA0Mh9CBoKq3qaMA2UCHNpGm6GdkFNqRxuCbWMejpqLKB23_nFy5E_laakZQpS8lYwo7UQcRu7c9cdXNi2j79HUeoH/s1600/Spanner+on+valve+cap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="592" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjegxLtJh7tLGw6B2SHBloss6N4m3kSnSnkBr9hReIoxZKPi1xC98gA0Mh9CBoKq3qaMA2UCHNpGm6GdkFNqRxuCbWMejpqLKB23_nFy5E_laakZQpS8lYwo7UQcRu7c9cdXNi2j79HUeoH/s640/Spanner+on+valve+cap.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I was reluctant to hack off such a large part of the Featherbed frame but it just has to go. It serves no purpose for what I have planned and anyway, I can keep it and glue it back on if I ever need to.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAsmpLM6vYPaMiAAUPt57Nhe2jMNyukbrLwW6E-GHEXDbr_vrPDiluL_PnndABzZNDZmgbFE47tMg9QL3GBAmmMNWpiT2Rk9a-6OVa2xlSHrF99eX57kg-bRI2eCgixI_jcvHRaN5_FcIi/s1600/Tail+hoop+gotta+go.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAsmpLM6vYPaMiAAUPt57Nhe2jMNyukbrLwW6E-GHEXDbr_vrPDiluL_PnndABzZNDZmgbFE47tMg9QL3GBAmmMNWpiT2Rk9a-6OVa2xlSHrF99eX57kg-bRI2eCgixI_jcvHRaN5_FcIi/s640/Tail+hoop+gotta+go.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's the Left Hand footrest and brake pedal. It's a modified aftermarket set. Quite nicely made, simple and elegant requiring only two additional holes in the frame. The little aluminium block on the mounting plate is an adjustable stop for the pedal. I'm gonna try to devise a discreet stop switch in there somewhere. More about that later. You can also see the ali chainguard that came with the frame. It's made from 3mm aluminium and Tig welded. Probably close to what I'd have done myself. Nice.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHYzuyPgID_2Nx_506z9gDIge7bBhFzGy5fNRu1M-3MjATMRnqGlSvSeeinuCA5MRddVSKMg_Gfb3Q7KtQ3_WoF1gKOCMVu-LoeocARC6IGxeumT4-RH4X1POlq24LZ0Hc1iturdyiR4VB/s1600/LH+Footrest+%2526+Brake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHYzuyPgID_2Nx_506z9gDIge7bBhFzGy5fNRu1M-3MjATMRnqGlSvSeeinuCA5MRddVSKMg_Gfb3Q7KtQ3_WoF1gKOCMVu-LoeocARC6IGxeumT4-RH4X1POlq24LZ0Hc1iturdyiR4VB/s640/LH+Footrest+%2526+Brake.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And here's the Right Hand footrest. Just one additional hole in the frame this time. I resisted using the three-hole mounting plate like on the other side on the basis of simplicity and the fact that you can never see both sides of the bike at the same time. The problem here turns out to be the kickstart lever - It's right in the way of my shin making it uncomfortable to ride and difficult to change gear. Hmm.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW1GNoFIB8Mx4_FLbpMF01lvPEBQGZDJAeNpi3Ef8N8yZWmAlbFfcHDD0-kMYV1hwBbPKyllE1c9m1fZ53MtCqW4KRdHGA_Oxr2e0hTg-0N20-3Ak8T_6YbIHyUFXN5ROcRIK72qB2QvxV/s1600/RH+footrest+amd+kickstart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="550" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW1GNoFIB8Mx4_FLbpMF01lvPEBQGZDJAeNpi3Ef8N8yZWmAlbFfcHDD0-kMYV1hwBbPKyllE1c9m1fZ53MtCqW4KRdHGA_Oxr2e0hTg-0N20-3Ak8T_6YbIHyUFXN5ROcRIK72qB2QvxV/s640/RH+footrest+amd+kickstart.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I found a Triumph Trident kickstart that folds at the bottom. It has a similar Cotter Pin locking system that took a small stainless shim to match it to the BSA shaft. I also reshaped the gear selector lever by heating it with Oxy/Acetylene and re-bending it so it's 1/2" further out from the casing. Job done.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxoq-RKQl-d9gyNfyLLzgpviv0XN-XcvJijr_KLcE3R-7Ik-9DokQXXvGJ01QLsAsgOXwatF66CqK3XtiokKZyOW-zAMiKVNe5TuAeIkrbByUv3JSPIw38wmeLzQpqiJCfFMKrm0CADgHZ/s1600/Folding+kickstart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxoq-RKQl-d9gyNfyLLzgpviv0XN-XcvJijr_KLcE3R-7Ik-9DokQXXvGJ01QLsAsgOXwatF66CqK3XtiokKZyOW-zAMiKVNe5TuAeIkrbByUv3JSPIw38wmeLzQpqiJCfFMKrm0CADgHZ/s640/Folding+kickstart.jpg" width="440" /></a></div>
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This CNC'd aluminium mirror fits the bill. I'd never ride without being able to see what's coming up behind me to knock me off. Again, it's discreet and elegant and with it's convex glass offers a brilliant view rearward. The mounting method is a bit naff and I've already lost one from my Rocket so a bit of modification is required.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfR6EFXH7kGSqjTgX2RJN_CZu51ZHcsJpthZbMINwdteTLKOF7t82e-6Ronxdt7G7e9dXK6E_8f4t7ooIoP0_SbbJ0Br8Gu8SoqW_EcNiqsr-fypHkzH4iHQJfAnJIWuY2B7EckzgoDnJU/s1600/Oberon+mirror.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfR6EFXH7kGSqjTgX2RJN_CZu51ZHcsJpthZbMINwdteTLKOF7t82e-6Ronxdt7G7e9dXK6E_8f4t7ooIoP0_SbbJ0Br8Gu8SoqW_EcNiqsr-fypHkzH4iHQJfAnJIWuY2B7EckzgoDnJU/s640/Oberon+mirror.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY5z9h3gOgdKFyzDAMEDM7qUooWbVjYN3ZpsDu2UIb99RlLHgb0eZIrykPTywD8O_gu6e2t0FGbhukAaaDYZZKr6uB1DKadZg_41V-r9UchbW3Haa9EWOOyP38dS8vac2sbnFNDVt4IDkC/s1600/Oberon+mirror+rear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="504" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY5z9h3gOgdKFyzDAMEDM7qUooWbVjYN3ZpsDu2UIb99RlLHgb0eZIrykPTywD8O_gu6e2t0FGbhukAaaDYZZKr6uB1DKadZg_41V-r9UchbW3Haa9EWOOyP38dS8vac2sbnFNDVt4IDkC/s640/Oberon+mirror+rear.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Several years ago I had Laser Eye Surgery which allowed me to dump the glasses and gave me vision as good as when I was sixteen. I can read the smallest print and see to perform the most fiddly, tiny jobs PROVIDED I HAVE GOOD LIGHT. This seems to be one of the quirks of Laser Eye Surgery. In dim or murky light it's a struggle to see fine detail -but in bright light - WOW. So, I've dumped some of the 8 foot fluorescent fittings in the workshops and splashed out on a few of these Low Bay LED lights. This one is only 600mm long but emits a brilliant white light with good spread and consumes only 50 Watts - a quarter of the fluorescent light it replaces. Sadly, they're not cheap. This one is currently priced at £110 but the prices are falling all the time. I reckon they're a brilliant investment.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxtwkB31KyQqKrIguRn2rD03pTNBJX1DoM16Yta2bpPnh_31kaXQHUADR4hD7uHVEnc9ElqEOfDwpWB5w1HdgviBpzCxvC5cCMhspyjBNroaLgT8ZbG9SNY4veicGD3GCMvkeo0_91x8-s/s1600/LED+Low+Bay+Light.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxtwkB31KyQqKrIguRn2rD03pTNBJX1DoM16Yta2bpPnh_31kaXQHUADR4hD7uHVEnc9ElqEOfDwpWB5w1HdgviBpzCxvC5cCMhspyjBNroaLgT8ZbG9SNY4veicGD3GCMvkeo0_91x8-s/s640/LED+Low+Bay+Light.jpg" width="468" /></a></div>
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Time to tackle the rear mudguard. Here's the new aluminium one, sitting on a roll of masking tape on the tyre. I like the idea of fixing it to the swinging arm so that it moves with the wheel and is not fixed, with a huge gap, to the frame. Getting an even gap around the wheel is a bit of a compromise because as the chain stretches, the wheel will, of course, move further back. I devised a mounting method that could, if need be, move with the wheel.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpcwMO-D0jsccE4dMUXKi7MAtTdguMGrQ3lBlGswqnARejZdu5BOlhT5vH48cGNaNFP6f6fPxJvbl26a6OfP458VRuUoacDbwf094zKLxdLEPt2TQ9Dmc5SSzMLlXLYKxFk043wDoX2EIg/s1600/Mudguard+rer+sitting+on.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpcwMO-D0jsccE4dMUXKi7MAtTdguMGrQ3lBlGswqnARejZdu5BOlhT5vH48cGNaNFP6f6fPxJvbl26a6OfP458VRuUoacDbwf094zKLxdLEPt2TQ9Dmc5SSzMLlXLYKxFk043wDoX2EIg/s640/Mudguard+rer+sitting+on.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I made a forward mounting bracket from 1.5mm thick stainless and fixed it to the swinging arm 's square cross-tube with an M6 bolt in an M6 Aluminium Rivnut.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhelo7Y9TNhAG04rAwvVRNa3ldh4MuEWou5ET4lKCJOqYBdOSJfjF5K639kNlUbT8kIvN3kiQ4nOrAmdzivCSI0wq4Z2wmIcGAz1_BJLKAjafXDdS5nxiQBH1ZU5GdX3Hc99J1LJDEHdc6i/s1600/Rear+mudgurd+bkt+fixed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhelo7Y9TNhAG04rAwvVRNa3ldh4MuEWou5ET4lKCJOqYBdOSJfjF5K639kNlUbT8kIvN3kiQ4nOrAmdzivCSI0wq4Z2wmIcGAz1_BJLKAjafXDdS5nxiQBH1ZU5GdX3Hc99J1LJDEHdc6i/s640/Rear+mudgurd+bkt+fixed.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A rivnut is a threaded insert that can be installed in any tube or sheet to give you a deep, strong and secure thread for mounting other components to. They are available in sizes from M3 to M8 in Aluminium, Steel and Stainless. First you have to drill a 10mm hole in the tube. I've marked it on masking tape and I'm using a step drill bit in an angled air drill. Access is awkward but it's possible without removing the rear wheel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizJswrsT_tu_iOdsaUNLbLwIg2aDhi42lvh0HcTGOieJ62wifg7iZS5_42ql_qPgMdjZsoPOAcFYIza2s-Q3vLANfnHMk9ELlvnknBTBVr5pHaSKGG9qCl90I6Px9mkmAYQALN3V5au2VZ/s1600/ANgle+drill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizJswrsT_tu_iOdsaUNLbLwIg2aDhi42lvh0HcTGOieJ62wifg7iZS5_42ql_qPgMdjZsoPOAcFYIza2s-Q3vLANfnHMk9ELlvnknBTBVr5pHaSKGG9qCl90I6Px9mkmAYQALN3V5au2VZ/s640/ANgle+drill.jpg" width="538" /></a></div>
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The Rivnut is 'pulled' with a Rivnut Setting Tool which squeezes the rivnut inside the tube, locking it in place a bit like a pop rivet. This is our big boy's ratcheting Rivnut tool but others are available from CBS in all price ranges.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0re_92ZIoAsMtJLTdgLT3ugsQdvEnv6QFWaLU1f83-qqrEJBE5D_BYZZ0LQzV5VueR3VOTb3t-hIO_F7QxsLiWdiG2asWOhFc8V6PJBOpFUw56pYr-cGer5AIJDI6ubjRk8IIzUGitk_I/s1600/Installing+rivnut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0re_92ZIoAsMtJLTdgLT3ugsQdvEnv6QFWaLU1f83-qqrEJBE5D_BYZZ0LQzV5VueR3VOTb3t-hIO_F7QxsLiWdiG2asWOhFc8V6PJBOpFUw56pYr-cGer5AIJDI6ubjRk8IIzUGitk_I/s640/Installing+rivnut.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The rear mudguard needs additional mounting and support so I used a one metre length of 12mm diameter, !.5mm wall thickness aluminium tube. I annealed the middle six or seven inches, flattened it and formed it to fit inside the mudguard.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoN8bED6EW5GSw2-zZ1xdT_QqE_g18H77yj3fZwyH1dEM6oVJHaiJCP9ASCxTcBp3V6lyqex3hNSRDO-RNCk80A2LcYUc2vPDzmn_adi06y9069S4obYlZGAxjrHaVZnvBqq1bsJn8l27k/s1600/Rear+mudguard+stay+flattened+curve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoN8bED6EW5GSw2-zZ1xdT_QqE_g18H77yj3fZwyH1dEM6oVJHaiJCP9ASCxTcBp3V6lyqex3hNSRDO-RNCk80A2LcYUc2vPDzmn_adi06y9069S4obYlZGAxjrHaVZnvBqq1bsJn8l27k/s640/Rear+mudguard+stay+flattened+curve.jpg" width="552" /></a></div>
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I used two pieces of aluminium angle as vice jaws and annealed and flattened the ends of the tube, after cutting them to length,<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMKQ9YhbukWj8E3KHImhTL97EwaQFm3GdhEbIkwqIdI6qIlRJJ6g7Mcb0e1BJXHHJKmSzjqCxKlHEoQiX7QmHuSc7T54KGHB6yOL5MzX-vrbUnU8cO52t3Bqqm7OqNCLbhJ6XfaZIgcTkC/s1600/Flattend+end+rear+mudguard+stay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMKQ9YhbukWj8E3KHImhTL97EwaQFm3GdhEbIkwqIdI6qIlRJJ6g7Mcb0e1BJXHHJKmSzjqCxKlHEoQiX7QmHuSc7T54KGHB6yOL5MzX-vrbUnU8cO52t3Bqqm7OqNCLbhJ6XfaZIgcTkC/s640/Flattend+end+rear+mudguard+stay.jpg" width="582" /></a></div>
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There's gonna be a lot of vibration on rear mudguard mounting points so I used an old Aviation trick and fitted a 'Doubler' to the inside of the forward mounting holes. A Doubler is, very simply, a second layer of material, riveted or bonded to an existing piece of material to increase it's strength in a particular area. Here, I've formed a doubler from 1mm aluminium and shaped it to match the inside of the mudguard. I clamped the doubler, drilled two 3mm holes and inserted two Clekos (see CBS catalogue or website) to hold the two parts together. Two more holes were drilled on the other side and four 3mm pop rivets were used to hold it all together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4nrUFENRMYJRPG1ABm7kSZpHWRYon9vBJBieUJoPyvlZc694Za3NesYooueQuvdJ9x_zVstRMS6mrF8Wj4CoglhUPUUbCJh-lAIcj3qBoPZK8bZFRY_SVBQMmrlVroM3sxcLIU4oIItJ2/s1600/Doubler+Clekos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="612" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4nrUFENRMYJRPG1ABm7kSZpHWRYon9vBJBieUJoPyvlZc694Za3NesYooueQuvdJ9x_zVstRMS6mrF8Wj4CoglhUPUUbCJh-lAIcj3qBoPZK8bZFRY_SVBQMmrlVroM3sxcLIU4oIItJ2/s640/Doubler+Clekos.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I drilled through the two mounting holes and flattened the inside of the rivets<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3SXGbjU7ibtMHruyrlHyu0lQSmJmkB0qSRHeRHiHL44FHlJ7ThgbzXB1FWucvwoGfVqK2Pxvsgk_R7VKVF7LS-FqpIhdP8X73S2tYQIppLJeUuISz5mpzeiqoZgCIT-UOXyv4SmM8gZeE/s1600/Doubler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3SXGbjU7ibtMHruyrlHyu0lQSmJmkB0qSRHeRHiHL44FHlJ7ThgbzXB1FWucvwoGfVqK2Pxvsgk_R7VKVF7LS-FqpIhdP8X73S2tYQIppLJeUuISz5mpzeiqoZgCIT-UOXyv4SmM8gZeE/s640/Doubler.jpg" width="508" /></a></div>
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The rear wheel chain adjuster studs make perfect mounting points for the stay. Two, M4 Button head bolts will secure the mudguard to the hoop at the top of the stay. It'll need some rubber in between though.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUilJ3wAIdNvBW0BSxButSgBPCXTtKSGlwS7COoZs4BMGI0fq-GrimFfyAyaG96e90HPq8F0t0ZhZyzSh_QixuptXsN93hmRwxac3kH9UqLv6Cw7xRJtqXtjgV7NuHePjYnnXL31CxKeOs/s1600/Rear+mudguard+stays.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUilJ3wAIdNvBW0BSxButSgBPCXTtKSGlwS7COoZs4BMGI0fq-GrimFfyAyaG96e90HPq8F0t0ZhZyzSh_QixuptXsN93hmRwxac3kH9UqLv6Cw7xRJtqXtjgV7NuHePjYnnXL31CxKeOs/s640/Rear+mudguard+stays.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Here you can see the riveted Doubler and the forward mount with it's rubber spacing block and rubber washers.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7NSsxkxYEpwb9gv4JRuXFZyCb68DPRhgXkKfg9clqDzNElIdiFzQOky8VNo21cUlXFL3695KAIW_VwSsqb2BEKhvTg7SHO7E9VB1EiYV3QJHVhqM8PV6XqVTtFIXGBFq_gRZRLfH2a5yE/s1600/inside+rear+mudguard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7NSsxkxYEpwb9gv4JRuXFZyCb68DPRhgXkKfg9clqDzNElIdiFzQOky8VNo21cUlXFL3695KAIW_VwSsqb2BEKhvTg7SHO7E9VB1EiYV3QJHVhqM8PV6XqVTtFIXGBFq_gRZRLfH2a5yE/s640/inside+rear+mudguard.jpg" width="558" /></a></div>
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Here's plan 'A' for the bolts fixing the mudguard to the hoop. Two M5 Button Head screws with large, curved stainless washers and rubber washers underneath. The stripped seat moulding is just sitting in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4N9Z1gx51eYnOs0cXu4dIsaeFH-OQWRoamUA5XYBC9lpomlmfapYTCISgE-2bPP8Tl6vTetmihaTzaR7pFD8Y0LGWeY5WUjS67dru1q_R9Pl32oYKjC8I6qCOFiYH6inDTxaZpI456e1k/s1600/rear+mudguard+and+seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4N9Z1gx51eYnOs0cXu4dIsaeFH-OQWRoamUA5XYBC9lpomlmfapYTCISgE-2bPP8Tl6vTetmihaTzaR7pFD8Y0LGWeY5WUjS67dru1q_R9Pl32oYKjC8I6qCOFiYH6inDTxaZpI456e1k/s640/rear+mudguard+and+seat.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I'm not sure about these big washers. They don't look very pretty but they may be partially hidden by the rear number plate. Here's how I shaped them anyway. Quite simple really - just clamp the washer in a vice between two pieces of aluminium angle with about 5mm sticking up. Give it a gentle tap with a hammer to bend it just a little. Then lift it up another 5mm and bend it a little again. Etcetera. With a little practice you'll have two washers perfectly curved to match the curvature of whatever you're fixing. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7sGoyWgm4ioHKYokeGviwEmaFTnedL7COA2jFdIyl7vnaQmNc6I96Eiwb7KW6OsuDBQVXgVNJ929WHBdheaKOK9W3V8r3-glLs0jHiz_EweuMkEaoaHi_6GwSyfT4T8oqhyphenhyphen-OTVasAFWl/s1600/Bend+washer2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7sGoyWgm4ioHKYokeGviwEmaFTnedL7COA2jFdIyl7vnaQmNc6I96Eiwb7KW6OsuDBQVXgVNJ929WHBdheaKOK9W3V8r3-glLs0jHiz_EweuMkEaoaHi_6GwSyfT4T8oqhyphenhyphen-OTVasAFWl/s320/Bend+washer2.jpg" width="308" /></a></div>
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I want to re-trim the seat so it has first to be stripped of it's vinyl cover and foam.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicqrTQ49e7jrAjzvGrsAkhALvNshb8AszBBOA4IcYGOF-8qMBv6UJwJPyPKqTWuhaklfCuvNkrPykMEtqCKIc_60Rt8H8Q1zPdqjQ3JjpHnfQSvLJcZKtO_bvwmBLREV2ifkxITwky8rTK/s1600/srat+stripped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicqrTQ49e7jrAjzvGrsAkhALvNshb8AszBBOA4IcYGOF-8qMBv6UJwJPyPKqTWuhaklfCuvNkrPykMEtqCKIc_60Rt8H8Q1zPdqjQ3JjpHnfQSvLJcZKtO_bvwmBLREV2ifkxITwky8rTK/s640/srat+stripped.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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There's room under the seat for the battery and some electrical stuff but it needs some sort of tray to mount it all on. Here it is - a piece of 2mm aluminium sheet, folded on our little bench folder.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLTpNjSqQUS61AXYVZKVZC0OstGYLsT6ynVtsAPoOoec1p7FnM_-YdO1nHgF1hc8C_GxXe6qDJkxc56UP1u8cdEeNBGhw9TTUnWrFIvXF3uSuFDVADZkeCzyAeQXqqWx3Z-6YNY6QDLrSk/s1600/Electrics+tray.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLTpNjSqQUS61AXYVZKVZC0OstGYLsT6ynVtsAPoOoec1p7FnM_-YdO1nHgF1hc8C_GxXe6qDJkxc56UP1u8cdEeNBGhw9TTUnWrFIvXF3uSuFDVADZkeCzyAeQXqqWx3Z-6YNY6QDLrSk/s640/Electrics+tray.jpg" width="558" /></a></div>
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I'm drilling and tapping the frame tubes to mount the tray with M4 screws.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTdKOrleo0XK9-GICGo5-XcT1We9yqPARx8hHgrQ28VkSg3lEAAiD7IxZjK-3j1vyIZFJuifySAcmbcZsaoY1WHi5ngctIBqHUeruGpxDgxlgNIEaG6ZFaZB2AdCrwxvpNiTC2RMaBaZJa/s1600/Tapping+frame..jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTdKOrleo0XK9-GICGo5-XcT1We9yqPARx8hHgrQ28VkSg3lEAAiD7IxZjK-3j1vyIZFJuifySAcmbcZsaoY1WHi5ngctIBqHUeruGpxDgxlgNIEaG6ZFaZB2AdCrwxvpNiTC2RMaBaZJa/s640/Tapping+frame..jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The battery is Lithium Ion and weighs next to nothing. It's sitting on a pad of 3mm self-adhesive foam from CBS. I made up a clamping strap from 1.5mm stainless and lined it with the 3mm foam. The strap is secured at one end with a rubber bonnet hook. The rectifier and horn are mounted beneath the tray, in the air-flow.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0zJWoPuHJz8yM4GtOne4pzgD-H5tA-yKdVdPtY30Naztk0LQ9ctxnUvXEvEVZv7OFlZO29-zRZsAzRyttwxZenM_-KPDUQtDWHZ1a9BJlbl4MU4CTnDumvyZVrlVmY065Oe2eo0XZNIFN/s1600/Ali+electric+tray+and+battery.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0zJWoPuHJz8yM4GtOne4pzgD-H5tA-yKdVdPtY30Naztk0LQ9ctxnUvXEvEVZv7OFlZO29-zRZsAzRyttwxZenM_-KPDUQtDWHZ1a9BJlbl4MU4CTnDumvyZVrlVmY065Oe2eo0XZNIFN/s640/Ali+electric+tray+and+battery.jpg" width="602" /></a></div>
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I searched around for a rear light for quite a while before settling for a small, LED lamp from Germany. It's 'E' marked and seems very bright despite is diminutive size. I removed a lot of surplus metal from the mounting bracket leaving just one plate, silver soldered to the housing. I bent the plate a few degrees until the lamp sat horizontally .</div>
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After weighing up the pros and cons of Seat / Mudguard mounting I decided to mount the lamp and number plate to the rear mudguard. I reckoned that the aluminium mudguard would be ok with the weight of the lamp and number plate.</div>
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Plan 'A' is to transform the lamp into a bespoke unit by moulding a perfectly formed mount that will support and position the lamp perfectly. First step is to support the lamp in 'mid-air', exactly where it will end up. I cut a couple of short M6 stainless studs and bolted them through the mudguard. Then, with the lamp positioned perfectly, I tack welded the studs to the lamp bracket.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMR3814nGnzdV-dPi4sYJXpj-2iXUg7zrsOakfLU0s2bkevDXv3UpTZ2UisGYCLmc9ROhNkTAdIymisY5LbfLv4_KOQFRVHKHdh2_pZCcf8eM-FDlCvW8nA2F1avOSQnVun9-bXhaiqkJM/s1600/Rear+light+weld+studs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="596" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMR3814nGnzdV-dPi4sYJXpj-2iXUg7zrsOakfLU0s2bkevDXv3UpTZ2UisGYCLmc9ROhNkTAdIymisY5LbfLv4_KOQFRVHKHdh2_pZCcf8eM-FDlCvW8nA2F1avOSQnVun9-bXhaiqkJM/s640/Rear+light+weld+studs.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Back on the bench, I silver soldered the studs on the back of the bracket then ground off the welds on the front.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj04RamXu5pjgLrFqXb1G6CsP0MONzTNu5Uczrvewp3Uqrj3GZlTRUKQtQefMwjUhLBtv_s3WXrpsfWRu-ygOpWT9rIe9IWL1jrlUfmsk7xUSqVcFzdUswDQbIpbmFNWD0RvhxtW0JIioh7/s1600/rear+light+silver+solder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj04RamXu5pjgLrFqXb1G6CsP0MONzTNu5Uczrvewp3Uqrj3GZlTRUKQtQefMwjUhLBtv_s3WXrpsfWRu-ygOpWT9rIe9IWL1jrlUfmsk7xUSqVcFzdUswDQbIpbmFNWD0RvhxtW0JIioh7/s640/rear+light+silver+solder.jpg" width="584" /></a></div>
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I then covered the area around the mounting holes with Sellotape, taking care to get no overlap or air bubbles.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHHg8gpC_Ady2kbKu6NlWqVgqpfH-Vh-zb_z2xua56aLXbiMX-j-jslWGTmQyQTNQ-Y4b8YZx7LEDGiQlAcnhCQsQmQ1_zHKGcIKlSg6emyliheG6-IpuYtBDACLCouVzAgsQkPcap-uLO/s1600/rear+light+sellotape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHHg8gpC_Ady2kbKu6NlWqVgqpfH-Vh-zb_z2xua56aLXbiMX-j-jslWGTmQyQTNQ-Y4b8YZx7LEDGiQlAcnhCQsQmQ1_zHKGcIKlSg6emyliheG6-IpuYtBDACLCouVzAgsQkPcap-uLO/s640/rear+light+sellotape.jpg" width="556" /></a></div>
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I remounted the lamp housing on two pieces of bundy tube, retaining it's position and angle ......<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOX0aTwOq8BukkfghtA8MqrRy33cOaPlUjYLZ3T1xz6tTKilcfpd0SR4x12oYSKIA1KW5pPpeN6To8cVqeSTwF_D0ko56rE8Mn_8EFBWbYpYa9GEy85-hVxnjnQsWtWOv2ipB3gnwt4y-v/s1600/Rear+light+on+pillars.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOX0aTwOq8BukkfghtA8MqrRy33cOaPlUjYLZ3T1xz6tTKilcfpd0SR4x12oYSKIA1KW5pPpeN6To8cVqeSTwF_D0ko56rE8Mn_8EFBWbYpYa9GEy85-hVxnjnQsWtWOv2ipB3gnwt4y-v/s640/Rear+light+on+pillars.jpg" width="582" /></a></div>
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.... and began to build up around them with P38 filler (available from CBS). This can be done in several stages - rubbing down and re-filling until you have a pleasing, symmetrical shape.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpJmRCdop1_qhdFC2OId_nqAOFiYx2LlIj8LV4r0G7owDNs1mwdVN-HZ3Lfge9OIFVCWXgGysBc2OuveYjdMzcwYRJjxz5kir4F1P-eb-gtuJJ21UmWdkAviNr6TAtFMBXyxWg6QMh_VfH/s1600/Rer+light+filler+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpJmRCdop1_qhdFC2OId_nqAOFiYx2LlIj8LV4r0G7owDNs1mwdVN-HZ3Lfge9OIFVCWXgGysBc2OuveYjdMzcwYRJjxz5kir4F1P-eb-gtuJJ21UmWdkAviNr6TAtFMBXyxWg6QMh_VfH/s640/Rer+light+filler+1.jpg" width="588" /></a></div>
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Here it is, freshly painted with Red Oxide primer. I often use real Red Oxide Primer on bare steel components. It gives good adhesion and coverage along with some degree of rust protection. (Available from CBS)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPAs4wyTnx8wFHU8LFCFBpCzOrkZxBC1qKDqZuqwI7o-OMIWSfyEanQHH6wFTALrQ3tMhYwQ-lON-HjwQ7YGhb9ba1KfFjxxwh_qXLf5hOJXd0BoN7mRrptf4NeGeemWYqOMF3sfuOmzv8/s1600/ReaR+LIGHT+RED+OXIDE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPAs4wyTnx8wFHU8LFCFBpCzOrkZxBC1qKDqZuqwI7o-OMIWSfyEanQHH6wFTALrQ3tMhYwQ-lON-HjwQ7YGhb9ba1KfFjxxwh_qXLf5hOJXd0BoN7mRrptf4NeGeemWYqOMF3sfuOmzv8/s640/ReaR+LIGHT+RED+OXIDE.jpg" width="638" /></a></div>
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It's easy to see the high and low points when you're rubbing down.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5E5eL5j7YvbwJiZX8irfN2bKOpZdyfPcgNoWh6Ne22R76DEBFe9qMnb-HLWQdOrzcMyTAg7G19vjJbDOadwqj7CYCtGVx2tGym4dpMvNSbm7Pp4ugeVzNNv_QcoFJp8coAwzQGsDh4xZ4/s1600/Rubbed+down+rear+light.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5E5eL5j7YvbwJiZX8irfN2bKOpZdyfPcgNoWh6Ne22R76DEBFe9qMnb-HLWQdOrzcMyTAg7G19vjJbDOadwqj7CYCtGVx2tGym4dpMvNSbm7Pp4ugeVzNNv_QcoFJp8coAwzQGsDh4xZ4/s640/Rubbed+down+rear+light.jpg" width="632" /></a></div>
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This is the lower, number plate support bracket - a simple 'U' shape made from 2mm aluminium, fixed with a single, short M6 Bolt and nut. The number plate will be secured with self-adhesive Velcro.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9_Luw_8bbxUDMca76FZugMfTPLmYtTgAjONsU6ivr22jGIGiWIkFJfo_CCi9ZhRexUP_Q6fLd6xlsErwDYkZcchEc2XKoW1kK7T0B-d844thFyLsJtWiSnbnb82rIxPjdSCQmwEoPldCi/s1600/RNOPLT+bottom+bracket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9_Luw_8bbxUDMca76FZugMfTPLmYtTgAjONsU6ivr22jGIGiWIkFJfo_CCi9ZhRexUP_Q6fLd6xlsErwDYkZcchEc2XKoW1kK7T0B-d844thFyLsJtWiSnbnb82rIxPjdSCQmwEoPldCi/s640/RNOPLT+bottom+bracket.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The finished lamp and mount.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPTsCFIzCRimgScE2U8eiQ6OjbM3HXDzzy-JDe2-j76F1CDN9zqiZ9XDv_P_vHOX2reOzw74ZsqOmTfJqtJ1rQ7Cw3Jm4f5PjzwxDq6Fg1gl26CrLC27v_KX0qbilwU0EdCtaSVl3tS5hv/s1600/rear+lamp+finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPTsCFIzCRimgScE2U8eiQ6OjbM3HXDzzy-JDe2-j76F1CDN9zqiZ9XDv_P_vHOX2reOzw74ZsqOmTfJqtJ1rQ7Cw3Jm4f5PjzwxDq6Fg1gl26CrLC27v_KX0qbilwU0EdCtaSVl3tS5hv/s640/rear+lamp+finished.jpg" width="588" /></a></div>
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With a nice, pressed aluminium plate. No visible fixings. Yup - pleased with that.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHO-nhFaoO1J-MYw490LsqifTVW58TGc1f3nvKtJM62zxlyQkD-dl07wnIaGnWq6F8Pih0_qXCYZzEKd1KNqqscvLvDUM1CNjRGmT68Zef0FaipaLARskgtq-ZTF1we_BU9Sut0EywHzG8/s1600/Rear+no+plate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHO-nhFaoO1J-MYw490LsqifTVW58TGc1f3nvKtJM62zxlyQkD-dl07wnIaGnWq6F8Pih0_qXCYZzEKd1KNqqscvLvDUM1CNjRGmT68Zef0FaipaLARskgtq-ZTF1we_BU9Sut0EywHzG8/s640/Rear+no+plate.jpg" width="510" /></a></div>
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Stainless spindles, washers and nylocs for the frame spacer and swinging arm<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0k6VDqAtL03MqZrPMuz7Uj6GR7E8gVRT9qCKUEKl9dGCxOvUXQTV_h-D3Oy2BNuYrBEqpCyaeG5G9FH-6N0ckFJ1KO_gSjBMNChpozxWJx_bQLI-Xy44PqXzefPxn1KA9-2wrbDvHqm18/s1600/stainless+spindles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0k6VDqAtL03MqZrPMuz7Uj6GR7E8gVRT9qCKUEKl9dGCxOvUXQTV_h-D3Oy2BNuYrBEqpCyaeG5G9FH-6N0ckFJ1KO_gSjBMNChpozxWJx_bQLI-Xy44PqXzefPxn1KA9-2wrbDvHqm18/s640/stainless+spindles.jpg" width="488" /></a></div>
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Here's the rear brake pedal and it's mounting plate. I made an adjustable stop on the mounting plate. This is the Mk2 stop which I made a little wider than the first because......</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQtpXRIaLdPwiEenpYMlEdPXmTvxFgJ1Ri7ETpxxLf_0OoVk1k7DP7HYoHkTKks52cRG4qWhG54UZEd_kQ1MydHMeoQpVpOmaSrZN8oQ78ugRt9wn3pNpi4YX9q72W8vYk33FO1fZvXud9/s1600/Rear+Brake+Pedal+stop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="562" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQtpXRIaLdPwiEenpYMlEdPXmTvxFgJ1Ri7ETpxxLf_0OoVk1k7DP7HYoHkTKks52cRG4qWhG54UZEd_kQ1MydHMeoQpVpOmaSrZN8oQ78ugRt9wn3pNpi4YX9q72W8vYk33FO1fZvXud9/s640/Rear+Brake+Pedal+stop.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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..... I wanted to fix the rear stop light switch on the back of the plate using the same two mounting bolts. The stop light switch is a simple, 'pull to make' switch available from CBS. I shortened it's spring and drilled and tapped the bottom edge of the brake pedal to fit a piece of M5 studding, bent at 90 degrees. Simple and discreet.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhYZfYX-QBblCXPbGRRagcEN_7o0-dtm56_pFGca6Mgd-OQ7iZuz-YUsfnexWL7k0LKEUhnpMUHl2s-EZzvTmfb1oIu8Np9Fnurp6AKLG69oqNLOQkYuUwDDX9iuzlDFBLytU8o35LKY-M/s1600/Rear+Stop+Light+Switch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhYZfYX-QBblCXPbGRRagcEN_7o0-dtm56_pFGca6Mgd-OQ7iZuz-YUsfnexWL7k0LKEUhnpMUHl2s-EZzvTmfb1oIu8Np9Fnurp6AKLG69oqNLOQkYuUwDDX9iuzlDFBLytU8o35LKY-M/s640/Rear+Stop+Light+Switch.jpg" width="616" /></a></div>
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Spot the stop light switch. You can just see the tip of the plunger behind the mount and the actuator bolt under the pedal. The wires should also be well hidden on the inboard side of the frame tubes. </div>
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That'll do for this post. Plenty more in the next one.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxZF4pHBpZHtZOZgOoVPO8jcaaDqEskcOmzJHA3NMnmzBLRggTSC-KUxQ4XeEGlk1tUQoa2tFKwhyRoMsFSOZdKVnh-DxVy4mDsBx5l-2s0OmmsgbRE8riHI0QC2rkNiFHcKn6MIBI7iz7/s1600/Rear+brake+assy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxZF4pHBpZHtZOZgOoVPO8jcaaDqEskcOmzJHA3NMnmzBLRggTSC-KUxQ4XeEGlk1tUQoa2tFKwhyRoMsFSOZdKVnh-DxVy4mDsBx5l-2s0OmmsgbRE8riHI0QC2rkNiFHcKn6MIBI7iz7/s640/Rear+brake+assy.jpg" width="564" /></a></div>
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Neil Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15041603942855623882noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7241217104929214113.post-50863524321068179892015-09-19T01:53:00.002-07:002015-10-31T05:11:24.261-07:00Post No. 4 - More Other Bits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKXtm9T5pvcpRn_2TMEMOY7l8_2BxAn6MLKegxbo5rPyPQtsi9rLyvmZzJrYIqasbkl2wUuyeWUOzLyxydZpjfeXVwgSaV1PmsLO0K1b8cKkwachhQqdEDeLba9egLbj8zdrpyIhjzuBr/s1600/NORVIN+CBS+LOGO.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="62" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKXtm9T5pvcpRn_2TMEMOY7l8_2BxAn6MLKegxbo5rPyPQtsi9rLyvmZzJrYIqasbkl2wUuyeWUOzLyxydZpjfeXVwgSaV1PmsLO0K1b8cKkwachhQqdEDeLba9egLbj8zdrpyIhjzuBr/s400/NORVIN+CBS+LOGO.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: x-large;">Post No: 4 - More Other Bits</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">my email: neil@cbsonline.co.uk</span><br />
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I'm making a mounting bracket for the muffler - can't really call it a silencer - I can see a lot of daylight looking through it!! I clamped it in place on the downpipe and made a card template using the old dirty-fingers routine to mark the hole positions. The final shape doesn't really matter provided there's enough meat around the holes to give it enough strength. </div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMocfMnWo05v7GK6JlSLBe4p2mtLuFAT_pSK_UtBf2QY-kssTr_u4Yjo-cmZTGS7_ruT7fE66To0Z1BG89NWrjsU4Dj8n-MUQD6MTCVhbWVJvQ2y4xDuQRr6QMrb-XULU-qo3noccyQPIg/s1600/Muffler+bkt+template.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMocfMnWo05v7GK6JlSLBe4p2mtLuFAT_pSK_UtBf2QY-kssTr_u4Yjo-cmZTGS7_ruT7fE66To0Z1BG89NWrjsU4Dj8n-MUQD6MTCVhbWVJvQ2y4xDuQRr6QMrb-XULU-qo3noccyQPIg/s640/Muffler+bkt+template.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Here, I'm cutting it out of an old 1/4" thick gearbox mounting plate on our new bandsaw. </div>
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Nice piece of kit. I've taped the template on with a few tabs of masking tape and I've cut roughly a couple of mil from the edge. I'll mill the straight edges and radius the curves on our linisher.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfAsOFq-faESdI-G0QzbUsO5SoEG_kYzxiR19R_VKvp22S9l13tDJA4CL-GJD6sfdfQ3wdGg7NtCs76iXKdb5Tz7XxzSith1e0FZjB9NbdcuqzdmdYgyVuKR4UPdZTuwDSqKE_sKX8JncN/s1600/Cutting+muffler+bkt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfAsOFq-faESdI-G0QzbUsO5SoEG_kYzxiR19R_VKvp22S9l13tDJA4CL-GJD6sfdfQ3wdGg7NtCs76iXKdb5Tz7XxzSith1e0FZjB9NbdcuqzdmdYgyVuKR4UPdZTuwDSqKE_sKX8JncN/s640/Cutting+muffler+bkt.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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There are two bolts on the silencer which are held captive in a welded channel. This will keep the bracket securely positioned.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYxgVucW5liWRH6BDpLQQ7zxQjFDmsaYSUN2UJpwu2uisrfKZ_AS9mqJCYtP84WycdxMSQn0KrX_WH5ZHI2RgHWiNwENWt8pbmgUK6ez0eaf1QboyWJLWsQfuLLbQtPtakwkkvZxxLLuM-/s1600/Silencer+bracket+on.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYxgVucW5liWRH6BDpLQQ7zxQjFDmsaYSUN2UJpwu2uisrfKZ_AS9mqJCYtP84WycdxMSQn0KrX_WH5ZHI2RgHWiNwENWt8pbmgUK6ez0eaf1QboyWJLWsQfuLLbQtPtakwkkvZxxLLuM-/s640/Silencer+bracket+on.jpg" width="436" /></a></div>
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And the one bolt on the frame mount finished the job.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq7cH1y5PuStYF_CaVKcsupsY3u3temWgepMk2eqt23DqSEWOaUanXyaE235W82RyKsLjqDaLOlIOI_4s8uFSY5cV6uNXAzHMp5XefQug6g7hpjHFMEDDz_3y3_7thtDopejVoNhl_MaM2/s1600/muffler+mount+finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq7cH1y5PuStYF_CaVKcsupsY3u3temWgepMk2eqt23DqSEWOaUanXyaE235W82RyKsLjqDaLOlIOI_4s8uFSY5cV6uNXAzHMp5XefQug6g7hpjHFMEDDz_3y3_7thtDopejVoNhl_MaM2/s640/muffler+mount+finished.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I like to see just a couple of threads protruding beyond a nut - it's a requirement of VOSA's IVA rules and the CAA. I shorten dozens of them in the lathe with an angled cutting tool. It puts a nice chamfer on the bolt and makes a clean finish on the end. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWMHY_b67KsxSLrlFtEGb_k8ey0O_hWTrtoWZV6SAqNu5GTSNSW15YcKM_nRcjqV3Gamy-zDp0Rd75C3qjuHLF7HGFktmtcDQCodE9kcm5aJWFrowXv2PU67etshrHZ_YiY9ISp6qSDWjT/s1600/Shortening+bolt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: inline !important; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWMHY_b67KsxSLrlFtEGb_k8ey0O_hWTrtoWZV6SAqNu5GTSNSW15YcKM_nRcjqV3Gamy-zDp0Rd75C3qjuHLF7HGFktmtcDQCodE9kcm5aJWFrowXv2PU67etshrHZ_YiY9ISp6qSDWjT/s640/Shortening+bolt.jpg" width="428" /></a></div>
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A few moons ago I could spot a stainless nut or bolt in a dozen plated steel ones form a hundred yards. These days I just confirm it with a little magnet on the side of my toolbox. Stainless is (mostly) non magnetic.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-FksPR-LqWcyc1n-SoBRyXbgQcyhubnSLr0uwZmKT-TbacNPJNRJDONGT_g8JeheVujwP0x2jN1X3y2_vUd5AS9VUw47eP6uIsz5lO31FcG0JHea79KILo3g5Gxjym2W32tD-r4tC5zs_/s1600/Magnet+on+toolbox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-FksPR-LqWcyc1n-SoBRyXbgQcyhubnSLr0uwZmKT-TbacNPJNRJDONGT_g8JeheVujwP0x2jN1X3y2_vUd5AS9VUw47eP6uIsz5lO31FcG0JHea79KILo3g5Gxjym2W32tD-r4tC5zs_/s640/Magnet+on+toolbox.jpg" width="556" /></a></div>
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A consequence of having a reasonable-looking silencer, mounted nicely on the frame and using a BSA gearbox is that the kickstart will clout the silencer near the bottom of it's stroke. I guestimated that it needs about another 1/2' offset. Here's how I did it.<br />
I clamped the kickstart in our strong bench vice and clamped a steel rule to the bench shelf, adjusting it's position to 1/2" away from the upper bend of the kickstart.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQen5nlKDGb8b25e7hT6LmPPg4eNaegQp8D5QWetKXHd4ps0l1ljOPah7OVWzehqozc4Mi4euDZ0qiQ_HRmwO6g2IYwvMivbnUlrFnsYjNzAstc_BKR7tzLjTis-9PFcuelW5Uq-68mkoK/s1600/kickstart+measuring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="526" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQen5nlKDGb8b25e7hT6LmPPg4eNaegQp8D5QWetKXHd4ps0l1ljOPah7OVWzehqozc4Mi4euDZ0qiQ_HRmwO6g2IYwvMivbnUlrFnsYjNzAstc_BKR7tzLjTis-9PFcuelW5Uq-68mkoK/s640/kickstart+measuring.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Our trusty Oxy/Acetylene torch makes a powerful and accurately positionable heat source - waaaaay better than a butane torch. I heated a short section of the lever just above the clamping boss to cherry red colour. The vice acts as a heat-sink so it needs a quite intense flame - but not so intense that it damages the chrome plating. When the heat has soaked evenly into the section of the lever it's quite easy to just bend it gently until it touches the steel rule.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB-gWgcsiBViC1MHY87IXJ3N171Bzz1f4ZseOTLAuN_YSWIyKpvyLxlp5Lh3pjsDw-Vq5U_epVQ2XHcawAzsN4NMpnIMrkMFqLAR4JDzagBmZwrdOqKDTLi0CWSUkZS5zk5Uu8oCvwq0E3/s1600/Kickstart+bending+bottom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB-gWgcsiBViC1MHY87IXJ3N171Bzz1f4ZseOTLAuN_YSWIyKpvyLxlp5Lh3pjsDw-Vq5U_epVQ2XHcawAzsN4NMpnIMrkMFqLAR4JDzagBmZwrdOqKDTLi0CWSUkZS5zk5Uu8oCvwq0E3/s640/Kickstart+bending+bottom.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I then turned it upside-down in the vice and repeated the same angle bend, the same distance from the end of the rule, on the upper leg of the kickstart. With any luck, if the chrome is half decent, the blueing should polish out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-fBmUf0zbvGb6oWFNnt1BgJ3Te1LkcDEabbpfuGzfpVA5gb9w0Z3ryBm6gaLIiOaUH1P1buH-bjFh5KaE3EO8ZOsqkq8kvW77tjjSN0pWsHi_xKVvWXQrZ-d3f7ii8RIjwB3RNPJX-vuP/s1600/Kickstart+bending+top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-fBmUf0zbvGb6oWFNnt1BgJ3Te1LkcDEabbpfuGzfpVA5gb9w0Z3ryBm6gaLIiOaUH1P1buH-bjFh5KaE3EO8ZOsqkq8kvW77tjjSN0pWsHi_xKVvWXQrZ-d3f7ii8RIjwB3RNPJX-vuP/s640/Kickstart+bending+top.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Yup - that'll do it. A miss is as good as a mile.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjww6Hc2cNG-KRUKQQLSVe4APXPPNgQ0H1EKELSgjlaFLAFVLVtwurPp1QcRuhXyR78sXtvJeO3LKBcNni6oyAH_IqGryNa-4PhrsUAlO2DPp8eGYeGQAQdahhB_gjlofojQrNIpvJLxez/s1600/Kickstart+clearance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjww6Hc2cNG-KRUKQQLSVe4APXPPNgQ0H1EKELSgjlaFLAFVLVtwurPp1QcRuhXyR78sXtvJeO3LKBcNni6oyAH_IqGryNa-4PhrsUAlO2DPp8eGYeGQAQdahhB_gjlofojQrNIpvJLxez/s640/Kickstart+clearance.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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All polished and back to normal.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR28NutFkVI62ItgLWtq_x5SU3vKQdHDCrXvb4Cr1MQyRzYlkPzqX01WD6ny-aLrldPPvsjBoeVzrc-F_bLVNF6eD_iMvcwhTk-OTycy0K4YiEfu67KvgqypmRV9nhpEJ5PlTt5W6sIK3A/s1600/Polished+kickstart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR28NutFkVI62ItgLWtq_x5SU3vKQdHDCrXvb4Cr1MQyRzYlkPzqX01WD6ny-aLrldPPvsjBoeVzrc-F_bLVNF6eD_iMvcwhTk-OTycy0K4YiEfu67KvgqypmRV9nhpEJ5PlTt5W6sIK3A/s640/Polished+kickstart.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next challenge. I quite fancied stainless mudguards on the bike. I found this front one on ebay but it's about 1/2" too wide to drop nicely between the fork legs.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaiXWrzpqXGmuA-QXiQRcERgiNbuiuZ89UNNEbvTfUcRwXOWQACKB5xvFUHcdr3TEeLYyd8jHzVE4fXg-7LFDrpwnKEYhLpnEs8oKJXPa39Uc5oQiGRvWvmEGbvX0IL2nlNL5ciFwRtwvH/s1600/Front+mudguard+width+between+forks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaiXWrzpqXGmuA-QXiQRcERgiNbuiuZ89UNNEbvTfUcRwXOWQACKB5xvFUHcdr3TEeLYyd8jHzVE4fXg-7LFDrpwnKEYhLpnEs8oKJXPa39Uc5oQiGRvWvmEGbvX0IL2nlNL5ciFwRtwvH/s640/Front+mudguard+width+between+forks.jpg" width="622" /></a></div>
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Here's the plan. Make a 'scallop' on each side of the mudguard at the position of the fork legs. I started with a flap disc on a 4" angle grinder. Then tried this 3" flap wheel in my pillar drill. It was hard going - unlike aluminium or steel but I eventually got close to where I could start mocking it up and testing the principle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz1qJbnzB5uN7t-6jn7LARa5HbNXnliz4dy0M1EjOav3C8KZVz2Raw_o5gcSzOBTllLQ6lfEIChjI8cAJUEf2qONawJVhz7sBS087RkOrCXTL8XUip_rmbssNTagegSJh30IKyQ5vPNMsz/s1600/Dressing+mudguard+cutout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz1qJbnzB5uN7t-6jn7LARa5HbNXnliz4dy0M1EjOav3C8KZVz2Raw_o5gcSzOBTllLQ6lfEIChjI8cAJUEf2qONawJVhz7sBS087RkOrCXTL8XUip_rmbssNTagegSJh30IKyQ5vPNMsz/s640/Dressing+mudguard+cutout.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I cut a few inches of 2 1/2" O.D. stainless tube and sliced it in half, along it's length on the cut-off saw.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqVEZCmFSBcX-jr7Jkc3jfEXVrmsl7F1HiGdGLZdLbK9F6-J1FLcg8UqFbhkPjbBbISh32m2aJvzS9bX2AZLK9dZ1q_DeTtE4My1ZlCWXPSi1sBj7ESqYWi6a0fvPvNZGpF676TFdLQGxt/s1600/Cutting+mudguard+stainless+tube.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqVEZCmFSBcX-jr7Jkc3jfEXVrmsl7F1HiGdGLZdLbK9F6-J1FLcg8UqFbhkPjbBbISh32m2aJvzS9bX2AZLK9dZ1q_DeTtE4My1ZlCWXPSi1sBj7ESqYWi6a0fvPvNZGpF676TFdLQGxt/s640/Cutting+mudguard+stainless+tube.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I needed a method of supporting such an awkward shape whilst I fettled the scallops to refine the fit of the tube sections. This method is crude and not very pretty but it works. Plan 'A' is to silver solder them in and polish the joints so they're almost invisible. This requires a very accurate fit of the three components with no significant gaps.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnWZKMCWRHRAN0t0Az6cEUmFpZ9BN0bcw66_2EqwLNc3enY18Cr64nH5MeFf7So118FsG4HKuju1t0yUghD6XQYWPVlfKBzbi-GybLjmx7FxsCmTIUOHYDzUmEwaLfrJN-7LbkjNu_OUHj/s1600/levelling+mudgusrd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnWZKMCWRHRAN0t0Az6cEUmFpZ9BN0bcw66_2EqwLNc3enY18Cr64nH5MeFf7So118FsG4HKuju1t0yUghD6XQYWPVlfKBzbi-GybLjmx7FxsCmTIUOHYDzUmEwaLfrJN-7LbkjNu_OUHj/s640/levelling+mudgusrd.jpg" width="554" /></a></div>
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After quite a bit of faffing-about here's the result on one side. Of course, it's not finished, or blended or even polished yet but it's enough to dislike the whole idea. The mudguard itself has not been made very well. It's not symmetrical across the width and it just doesn't look right sitting around the tyre.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6AM7NtnlQ6z3h6HbyFSDGNTsNFwAdxRpXLrJKzygUPYQ49MJTq5jJdbOk4OpHbSdhMdaddgYt67XsEfPe2t0poYTrQd9QfMYelAixByvA4RGs7TshIAkbk_Qry1qI8JP8pld9pluJD_Ge/s1600/Front+mudguard+insert.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6AM7NtnlQ6z3h6HbyFSDGNTsNFwAdxRpXLrJKzygUPYQ49MJTq5jJdbOk4OpHbSdhMdaddgYt67XsEfPe2t0poYTrQd9QfMYelAixByvA4RGs7TshIAkbk_Qry1qI8JP8pld9pluJD_Ge/s640/Front+mudguard+insert.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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So, I abandoned it and fitted the original one that came with the frame. It's powder-coated steel and not very pretty but it'll do for now while I think of something else.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7n7nQqOmGrMSDJZaH-NfhXVS_PQeKL7amocEfIYuMnjd-Bm2h60BqMKVv7mytSEowcLXCMt-2nZc7yr4D3R5Spd4vbHz9yDYeIasfxNITnblXfE0jRu5rMqVxrsxqqq9MyfUq04v0fw8O/s1600/Black+mudgurd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7n7nQqOmGrMSDJZaH-NfhXVS_PQeKL7amocEfIYuMnjd-Bm2h60BqMKVv7mytSEowcLXCMt-2nZc7yr4D3R5Spd4vbHz9yDYeIasfxNITnblXfE0jRu5rMqVxrsxqqq9MyfUq04v0fw8O/s640/Black+mudgurd.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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On to the fuel tank. This is the one that came with the rolling frame. It's generally OK and had only one little dent on the top where maybe a spanner was dropped on it at some time. We have a friend who is a wizard at removing small dents from car panels. He managed to remove it by repeatedly gluing (with hot-melt adhesive) a small mandrel, like a nail with a head at both ends on the dent and gently tugging the dent out with repeated gentle blows on a slide-hammer. It took a while and was much more difficult than working with steel but it has pretty-much disappeared.</div>
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The cap is OK but needed a new rubber seal. Fortunately, it's a CBS stock item so easily replaced.</div>
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What wasn't so easy, however, was cleaning out the inside. There was so much crap inside that it rattled when I shook it. I could see corrosion and brown powdery deposits through the filler hole and the fuel tap threads. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmwU0LmHia6GzcvxZ8x8Ekh3anwntpapFgca4aT15iBZEp91_cGp6YECTqZjwpD6K9vpfNTWclMYcNr19JDXSKCVAc1R0XBOhIsYKjcty07Y1Ru4nlP9TADTfgKVDnZf0Wpgs7STPHbKMI/s1600/Washing+fuel+tank.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmwU0LmHia6GzcvxZ8x8Ekh3anwntpapFgca4aT15iBZEp91_cGp6YECTqZjwpD6K9vpfNTWclMYcNr19JDXSKCVAc1R0XBOhIsYKjcty07Y1Ru4nlP9TADTfgKVDnZf0Wpgs7STPHbKMI/s640/Washing+fuel+tank.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I cleaned out the fuel tap thread with a 1/4" BSP tap and fitted a blanking plug. Then I poured in a whole salad cream bottle of Gun-Wash thinners, closed the filler cap (with a piece of polythene over it first so the thinners didn't make it's way through the cap breather), gave it a five minute shake up and emptied it into a container. There must have been half an egg cup of loose debris in that first wash out. But, upon inspection the powdery surface deposits were still there - I could feel them just inside the filler cap and rub them off with my finger. The thinners alone was obviously not enough.<br />
I had the idea of cutting a whole sheet of Scotchbrite into 3" squares - six of them. I pushed them into the tank along with the filtered thinners and repeated the shake-up. When immersed in thinners the pads are heavy and abrasive enough to lightly scour the inside of the tank.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwxhV72eeP3EJUG_2Spp0K3LVL5PeDvTVVePFTI-QrFBV85mXV-mKMLMsuPsTPrNO6A5PX4Sq65Sc9wgxLlAmikYec830EAW6yde_EmnDFE9tfqWDAzhyxhlbDN3ADTKvKrap6yo9Ehnil/s1600/Fueltank+Scotchbritr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwxhV72eeP3EJUG_2Spp0K3LVL5PeDvTVVePFTI-QrFBV85mXV-mKMLMsuPsTPrNO6A5PX4Sq65Sc9wgxLlAmikYec830EAW6yde_EmnDFE9tfqWDAzhyxhlbDN3ADTKvKrap6yo9Ehnil/s640/Fueltank+Scotchbritr.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I drained and filtered the thinners and washed out the Scotchbrite pads a further seven times. I used a new face mask in a funnel as a filter each time. This is the fourth one. Eventually I managed to get the inside acceptably clean.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjviXYi42YVziY34ZdBAEXdJWy1bdnyHFxIrvy7wIIlcQDGRz8Of8OooP_AHayjAlVp0aJEk_stXLp-PrNxuBKQCbL8JAo1W_VzITg0c5NBA5GA8VJmK-erJaoC4jrbI641k4jREWR4FypV/s1600/7th+filter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjviXYi42YVziY34ZdBAEXdJWy1bdnyHFxIrvy7wIIlcQDGRz8Of8OooP_AHayjAlVp0aJEk_stXLp-PrNxuBKQCbL8JAo1W_VzITg0c5NBA5GA8VJmK-erJaoC4jrbI641k4jREWR4FypV/s640/7th+filter.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's the sprung-loaded over-centre fastener that tightens the tank strap. The latch has a little sprung locking clip but I've added a retaining 'R' clip for extra security.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWiwelqWjJmsxTthNKtlMG54PYWDgWGb0Uz1B1FvUF92_V8Aqrlc4Q338fFtDnmVTFrUF50pZ_qObEHq4oi47VCH8oqJlKMZ4fr9flHAEdDXOjvoGXHVlQq2VJeHpO0OnRFlda3MzqiWPf/s1600/Tank+strap+clip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWiwelqWjJmsxTthNKtlMG54PYWDgWGb0Uz1B1FvUF92_V8Aqrlc4Q338fFtDnmVTFrUF50pZ_qObEHq4oi47VCH8oqJlKMZ4fr9flHAEdDXOjvoGXHVlQq2VJeHpO0OnRFlda3MzqiWPf/s640/Tank+strap+clip.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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This is the magneto cover from the timing cover. It looked a little beat-up and the mating surface had a few burrs so I hand-linished it with a sheet of 400 grit wet and dry paper on our surface plate. The gaffer tape is just a handle to hold it with. Any flat surface will do, like a piece of plate glass. I was surprised how distorted it was.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmuLVP0dulfyTV69kGmwUlMr-8GHQknAYmkp2_U9qXFMph-7Qd3AXam8_SVA0bN_mQinruYCp055z81BaYnOR1ogL1r-LWasLGwxYiwZ3W8FZkmUI0WnFAZVJDW1j3DGMuXNJgJQ6FVa66/s1600/Linishing+mag+cover+plate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmuLVP0dulfyTV69kGmwUlMr-8GHQknAYmkp2_U9qXFMph-7Qd3AXam8_SVA0bN_mQinruYCp055z81BaYnOR1ogL1r-LWasLGwxYiwZ3W8FZkmUI0WnFAZVJDW1j3DGMuXNJgJQ6FVa66/s640/Linishing+mag+cover+plate.jpg" width="616" /></a></div>
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I had to make a couple of seals for the valve covers while I wait for the proper Vincent ones to arrive (never a quick and efficient process). I'm sometimes lucky enough to find a piece of tube the right size that i can pop in the lathe and turn a sharp edge on one end. CBS stock cork and paper gasket material in several thicknesses.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkDePqs0PP6WH9P2tr-n5AQUBwut9fO3-DMXXu7ukcMhohueMP5gQtpXV8Mu6bL7ZWh7dmt7Rzcphrh8ltalMVFXqvDMF7qzkpugQYe9ANGZ23q0XF8eDevx-POThp9T7eojv0r65WW9PH/s1600/Tube+gasket+cutter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkDePqs0PP6WH9P2tr-n5AQUBwut9fO3-DMXXu7ukcMhohueMP5gQtpXV8Mu6bL7ZWh7dmt7Rzcphrh8ltalMVFXqvDMF7qzkpugQYe9ANGZ23q0XF8eDevx-POThp9T7eojv0r65WW9PH/s640/Tube+gasket+cutter.jpg" width="578" /></a></div>
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And if I don't have a close tube size, I'll just turn a sharp edge on a piece of bar. Neither of these methods will make a long-lasting tool but they'll cut one or two gaskets easily between sharpening.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhupzN103i0YZP0ITeG_dIsoI0x6sfOZbiRiukoAdPi4xgdAXo0uPyh-xAtbfTXPkD9nx1TYi2TG2zbwWLKGav4w8zJH0S1Pwf81wi4kN0p3pNA-2sdBPz_TaH2KtYPP-57GetVK6Dw3XJX/s1600/Turned+gasket+cutter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhupzN103i0YZP0ITeG_dIsoI0x6sfOZbiRiukoAdPi4xgdAXo0uPyh-xAtbfTXPkD9nx1TYi2TG2zbwWLKGav4w8zJH0S1Pwf81wi4kN0p3pNA-2sdBPz_TaH2KtYPP-57GetVK6Dw3XJX/s640/Turned+gasket+cutter.jpg" width="532" /></a></div>
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Time to connect the fuel tank to the carb. I reckoned it would be on and off more than a few times so I bought a quick-release coupling that seals both ends when it's disconnected. It's only a cheap, plastic one but it works and it'll do until I find a better one.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCl6IfOn9KENfFy9arfZ2wJX4u10BUm-Y2a_YMz6K4QHPbR_iJzYlkOZskISU_hur-h7WRe1nlPfxvVosCCo-3DFlKzvBTsCu-Mhk8oPfWo3JL-7bEpMEWVTZdYJO6dFgM8UPS7Hiu4lgE/s1600/Fuel+QR+coupling.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCl6IfOn9KENfFy9arfZ2wJX4u10BUm-Y2a_YMz6K4QHPbR_iJzYlkOZskISU_hur-h7WRe1nlPfxvVosCCo-3DFlKzvBTsCu-Mhk8oPfWo3JL-7bEpMEWVTZdYJO6dFgM8UPS7Hiu4lgE/s640/Fuel+QR+coupling.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here you can see my temporary cork valve cap gaskets and the HT lead which I protected with some CBS silicone sleeving.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr0ANh3arY7-P4ndP8Hp2wAiyVnuOSlFnDvQ3NTfrYLIIDq-Ij_vuWf026j6lu1xlqI9i783Dxn2dYKnE8IvViI_dBeyaX8OckfaiQXNerSb5f6MrpJ-hYRy262G5gCUPXSCKLHTO20iUq/s1600/Gskets+and+HT+lead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr0ANh3arY7-P4ndP8Hp2wAiyVnuOSlFnDvQ3NTfrYLIIDq-Ij_vuWf026j6lu1xlqI9i783Dxn2dYKnE8IvViI_dBeyaX8OckfaiQXNerSb5f6MrpJ-hYRy262G5gCUPXSCKLHTO20iUq/s640/Gskets+and+HT+lead.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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It lives !! After injecting about a pint of engine oil in all the right places around the engine and kicking it over with the plug out for as long as I could it was a surprisingly undramatic and swearing-free first run. Priming the oil pump took a couple of attempts, unscrewing unions and pumping in more oil, but the first squirts from the oil tank return line appeared within a minute, followed by frantic tightening of loose bolts and unions. Yup - a satisfying evening's work for sure. Here's a video of it's first few breaths.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxUKkGWGWf7PqTWTA3lZ6Lw--CgWfChFUkiNBV2h0MDX88-re1bEDHmemt_OXNlIgol3bLU6CZ6vHCn4SvRQQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br />
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I fitted the rear chain and pushed it outside for a first quick ride. However, the clutch simply refused to disengage and stalled the engine when I selected first gear. I couldn't work out why. Everything was new and I'd spent ages deburring all the plates and carrier so they all operated smoothly - at least during assembly. I eventually stripped the clutch and here's what I found. Every friction plate had stuck with rust to it's mating steel plate. The cork on the friction plated must have been impregnated with water - either from damp storage or from the manufacturing process - a problem I've never come across before. Never too old to learn new lessons. </div>
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A few minutes on the bench grinder's wire wheel and a few squirts of WD40 and it was back together and working fine.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe6tAQtE7dXQ1G7TfJxNYmLwn7DIQbeD9hg494L4Te09Ba0Ggwljnjb136hcnfpE3R0Bui46fKzI8WD6Vaxm6ZHZbdAWO-QzjIMBCkW_hRXr8cLRoH6ESTvVUhZf12ZJrtRZ4wGNG1mlhr/s1600/Ruty+clutch+plates.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="592" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe6tAQtE7dXQ1G7TfJxNYmLwn7DIQbeD9hg494L4Te09Ba0Ggwljnjb136hcnfpE3R0Bui46fKzI8WD6Vaxm6ZHZbdAWO-QzjIMBCkW_hRXr8cLRoH6ESTvVUhZf12ZJrtRZ4wGNG1mlhr/s640/Ruty+clutch+plates.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So, first impressions? Well, there are still no footrests or rear brake but it starts quite easily. Compression is very good but the kick-back bites hard if you don't get it right. It's quite light, easy to manoeuvre, despite it's poor turning circle and sounds gorgeous. Everything seems to work as it should - front brake, clutch, gearbox and primary drive all seem fine and the engine seems smooth with no unexpected rattles. From a short first drive it obviously has very long legs - one rev every telegraph pole stuff, but it pulls away easily and smoothly.<br />
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There's still a long way to go and a few niggly problems to iron-out. It's been a long, long time since I've kicked-over a big single and these old legs are paying the price but I'm having fun. I'll finish this post with a piccy next to my Son's GTR.<br />
The old and the new.<br />
Ciao.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMfI7xNwZuG8UWjA4DhhlhCJIeYQhGLQhsOAjdwb5Rda2dSE4XK1ymelbzeFStIWtFsgSO7TLyXJFI7A2gU7UoN24nmO3wG3y4oXW2zmmxjerI2OBplvT3pvAk6QY8KX2qRjW1anqDEbYP/s1600/NORVIN+and+GTR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMfI7xNwZuG8UWjA4DhhlhCJIeYQhGLQhsOAjdwb5Rda2dSE4XK1ymelbzeFStIWtFsgSO7TLyXJFI7A2gU7UoN24nmO3wG3y4oXW2zmmxjerI2OBplvT3pvAk6QY8KX2qRjW1anqDEbYP/s640/NORVIN+and+GTR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Neil Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15041603942855623882noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7241217104929214113.post-1416197214460617382015-08-23T00:42:00.003-07:002015-12-29T00:32:55.219-08:00Post No 3 - The Other Bits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKXtm9T5pvcpRn_2TMEMOY7l8_2BxAn6MLKegxbo5rPyPQtsi9rLyvmZzJrYIqasbkl2wUuyeWUOzLyxydZpjfeXVwgSaV1PmsLO0K1b8cKkwachhQqdEDeLba9egLbj8zdrpyIhjzuBr/s1600/NORVIN+CBS+LOGO.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="62" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKXtm9T5pvcpRn_2TMEMOY7l8_2BxAn6MLKegxbo5rPyPQtsi9rLyvmZzJrYIqasbkl2wUuyeWUOzLyxydZpjfeXVwgSaV1PmsLO0K1b8cKkwachhQqdEDeLba9egLbj8zdrpyIhjzuBr/s400/NORVIN+CBS+LOGO.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Post No: 3 - The Other Bits</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">my email: neil@cbsonline.co.uk</span><br />
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Well, the engine, gearbox and primary drive are all fitted and satisfactory. I've managed to select all the gears and turn the engine over with the kick-start so we're on the fitting all the other bits.<br />
You can see some of them, just plonked on, roughly in place. The tank, seat and oil tank are the ones that came with the frame. The tank has a small dent on the top which should come out with the expert help of our local friendly dent-repair-man. The seat is quite a pleasing shape and is OK for now but I'll probably treat it to a re-trim at some time. The oil tank will be fine with a little tweeking of the inlet and outlet. I bought some stainless mudguards but they'll need some modification and I'm not sure if they'll suit. The standard, Comet downpipe is almost right but it too, needs a little tweek.<br />
Time to turn it around.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtr9l6DtAC6XhJOsZ26KoWpTi0_9RnqTkqIt5pUDNZcb1zVXhOCTRqO-CvYEqA_LH6n5a2X74Y1RqqvDjU-zKiPw5FCD3dAjxZ9JVnryz74-KgQ-EPzzPXC2pF0pUH1FowNsdZvVNZtha7/s1600/Bits+laid+on+July+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtr9l6DtAC6XhJOsZ26KoWpTi0_9RnqTkqIt5pUDNZcb1zVXhOCTRqO-CvYEqA_LH6n5a2X74Y1RqqvDjU-zKiPw5FCD3dAjxZ9JVnryz74-KgQ-EPzzPXC2pF0pUH1FowNsdZvVNZtha7/s640/Bits+laid+on+July+15.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It's a bit prettier from this side. I've already tackled a few random bits so I'll just go through them below.</div>
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This is the oil tank return pipe and it's pointing in the wrong direction. I reckoned, if I could anneal it and get a pipe bender to sit tight enough to the tank, then I could maybe get it pointing the right way. I cut a segment from one of the CBS pipe benders which allowed the bend to start right at the weld.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvr1jrDTHUzCHioMr9iIjI6-MNwZiGsF_wOK6CKkCNDwLatWSutw1dDUPlfXr4Z48D_BmsXqKr5SUhvllbFjJ71TaxvFLjVJVlj8bIjZtedxD5xoXL5d8MhQIzJ_ZItXRRzSnznW58IUrr/s1600/Modded+bending+tool+oil+tank.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvr1jrDTHUzCHioMr9iIjI6-MNwZiGsF_wOK6CKkCNDwLatWSutw1dDUPlfXr4Z48D_BmsXqKr5SUhvllbFjJ71TaxvFLjVJVlj8bIjZtedxD5xoXL5d8MhQIzJ_ZItXRRzSnznW58IUrr/s640/Modded+bending+tool+oil+tank.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Half way there. Successful.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcMzWo6LKRrqOQ3a9m-8ReNv2wDwXioO8dHrQ-r2Tjt2IIVfvuB2civeapr9ldDHYbJbmnEaPjCoi4muMWn7hvg66Q3-qc_8p1y0pBz_6KnGuu36pmhUnLx0_RfMVF61e_u1Tw0_twR6qc/s1600/oil+tank+pipe+bebd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcMzWo6LKRrqOQ3a9m-8ReNv2wDwXioO8dHrQ-r2Tjt2IIVfvuB2civeapr9ldDHYbJbmnEaPjCoi4muMWn7hvg66Q3-qc_8p1y0pBz_6KnGuu36pmhUnLx0_RfMVF61e_u1Tw0_twR6qc/s640/oil+tank+pipe+bebd.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I modified the oil outlet union to accept a 1/4 BSP stainless banjo to match all the others on the bike. But, because the oil feed pipe is huge, 7/16" diameter I opened up all the holes including the main bore as much as possible.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4DzrYRy-3I0p23iM6g6BUe4UpHZQzMWRYWMgtJrz0dFpmDJwsq03A-L7ernnOFU9ZtYFu3NGU72-DmJDPz9HUE2dySeVlZC9cmodA7NUqgLIMPNgkVcjkLjmSUCSeA47ql2Cv4dAGANkf/s1600/Opening+out+banjo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4DzrYRy-3I0p23iM6g6BUe4UpHZQzMWRYWMgtJrz0dFpmDJwsq03A-L7ernnOFU9ZtYFu3NGU72-DmJDPz9HUE2dySeVlZC9cmodA7NUqgLIMPNgkVcjkLjmSUCSeA47ql2Cv4dAGANkf/s640/Opening+out+banjo.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A hollow copper washer at the tank joint and Dowty washers on the banjo should be leak-free.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibz6L2EUGLPHMlYH4r6R3E2pAnT32Q4WT6o1ZZwqmSwAKjQfI3lLBr09RQosi9oPxJNzFPrBNZrbobhg22eKTs8r18mYuQ78zH1TCizq0xt5I4jndAvSrQwzhMsC-c5gXPguHMgZRA2QNI/s1600/Oil+tank+banjo+in+situ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="550" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibz6L2EUGLPHMlYH4r6R3E2pAnT32Q4WT6o1ZZwqmSwAKjQfI3lLBr09RQosi9oPxJNzFPrBNZrbobhg22eKTs8r18mYuQ78zH1TCizq0xt5I4jndAvSrQwzhMsC-c5gXPguHMgZRA2QNI/s640/Oil+tank+banjo+in+situ.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I installed an anti-oil drain back valve in the feed line and I've used stainless 'O' Clips on the rubber hose sections.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHwGPwRNcJB956VYuKrwsiLW7rfFo-1kF982Wa6TjA_0xl6FVtuIe00rlZsmxIAhbk3z9DYNcltiDShyphenhyphenhWFmHymjExH0t0xBf0TGlAwaX7-QfCzSn4l9wdXOMEP-o_8RgPX5P4gEYtM6Kl/s1600/Oil+drain+valve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHwGPwRNcJB956VYuKrwsiLW7rfFo-1kF982Wa6TjA_0xl6FVtuIe00rlZsmxIAhbk3z9DYNcltiDShyphenhyphenhWFmHymjExH0t0xBf0TGlAwaX7-QfCzSn4l9wdXOMEP-o_8RgPX5P4gEYtM6Kl/s640/Oil+drain+valve.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The upper oil tank mount is isolated from the frame mounting bolts by a length of rubber fuel pipe so there is no metal to metal contact. However, the traditional method for fixing the lower mounts is with stretched rubber 'O' rings around a boss welded to the tank. A bit crude. </div>
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I decided to duplicate the upper mounting method but this meant welding a couple of extension plates to the frame side brackets. Here, I've cut the plate and clamped it in place for tack welding.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq7OaKcq9qL7GvbCsTnkm4Ikwgv9fhgzPGUvWkUGopwZ-5HBABvFgHu20pUiKoPel4pHsJrnjoDM0hor3oxe5B2hlI7736i8XKFvvcftgY7_KFeCfbtBGJmq3btnHpnSDrkzEXrzurhEOu/s1600/Oil+tank+mount+clamped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq7OaKcq9qL7GvbCsTnkm4Ikwgv9fhgzPGUvWkUGopwZ-5HBABvFgHu20pUiKoPel4pHsJrnjoDM0hor3oxe5B2hlI7736i8XKFvvcftgY7_KFeCfbtBGJmq3btnHpnSDrkzEXrzurhEOu/s640/Oil+tank+mount+clamped.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Welded and dressed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhoWqOb3ANsLW8SSA6EDiOnY7f56oYzMRYuKUvulUg_9c_51bCaMnxUKjihn17fi-rKV68V7jg1ptVzDHMdeAO-h7zNXYZPWtxVjUZXac_CsKvwMEhaMBltA_IXHc9TQshHWrgIt9NlLq5/s1600/Oil+tank+bkt+welded.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhoWqOb3ANsLW8SSA6EDiOnY7f56oYzMRYuKUvulUg_9c_51bCaMnxUKjihn17fi-rKV68V7jg1ptVzDHMdeAO-h7zNXYZPWtxVjUZXac_CsKvwMEhaMBltA_IXHc9TQshHWrgIt9NlLq5/s640/Oil+tank+bkt+welded.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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And here's the finished lower oil tank mount. You can just see the short length of fuel pipe between the tank and the frame.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjdUX43jm4YmJkiirPL4z0Lj-fc9ItCiyMHaeD8IndGSTeO9pd70pnauhZvySiJQOPpbU6Gxz6Ejea4QTfQ5qYmxmTWpz-UgC9SmZXVbu1L08kzAEo7zPmZv4HYRjQ102sYYfDSBFcR1M4/s1600/Oil+tank+mount+lower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="616" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjdUX43jm4YmJkiirPL4z0Lj-fc9ItCiyMHaeD8IndGSTeO9pd70pnauhZvySiJQOPpbU6Gxz6Ejea4QTfQ5qYmxmTWpz-UgC9SmZXVbu1L08kzAEo7zPmZv4HYRjQ102sYYfDSBFcR1M4/s640/Oil+tank+mount+lower.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I'd seen, somewhere, a dual, stacked control lever which looked like a short decompression lever on top of a brake or clutch lever. It looked a bit chunky but the idea of de-cluttering the handlebars was attractive so I thought I'd have a bash at making one.</div>
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There were a set of spare levers in my toolbox so I started hacking bits off one of them. On the right is the original lever and on the left is it's opposite partner after some surgery.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkAsPzfTxBBkCXnlFzzOo75tB7iAZpdjdjw1Zp9W7rdI6xcSijUOmB5rOl8CCylNKiUnkHcWz2wmBXFvWxSl8rJHQyPMWyqtgPcfS-8e28zhpvaWLlxzrycQUJt43S1gHGF8Uhes_foR0-/s1600/lever1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkAsPzfTxBBkCXnlFzzOo75tB7iAZpdjdjw1Zp9W7rdI6xcSijUOmB5rOl8CCylNKiUnkHcWz2wmBXFvWxSl8rJHQyPMWyqtgPcfS-8e28zhpvaWLlxzrycQUJt43S1gHGF8Uhes_foR0-/s640/lever1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The lever itself was obviously too long for a decompression lever and even after some amputation, was still a little chunky, so I sculpted it a little.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZrcROzbsfqcueRPq6HHg2FTxCmSD8eaD2dZ2SBS0t6VyS-VRWO3Z6-AaFYyCw3MMiDbM116BH3-UmzePkqxDqY8b_QEKgzNy96vDdRWhFwzf0m17f17sofXGnXhtfUIzY8GhiO0X-eY0W/s1600/Decompress+lever+cut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZrcROzbsfqcueRPq6HHg2FTxCmSD8eaD2dZ2SBS0t6VyS-VRWO3Z6-AaFYyCw3MMiDbM116BH3-UmzePkqxDqY8b_QEKgzNy96vDdRWhFwzf0m17f17sofXGnXhtfUIzY8GhiO0X-eY0W/s640/Decompress+lever+cut.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I mounted the new parts on top of the clutch lever and extended the bearing sleeve through both. I drilled through and bolted them together with two M4 countersunk screws.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSHUcEZkSXmtVINY8d0owgcy1uSOw2X5ZSbVN78tRwGmFaa3c5BfnEumcIkEhyphenhyphen2Oa36J39zpufv1KxT_lKBd_sOw7jr_68gNBYvkN-0yPuO1N3C8fyc3OqFa3k-fPzPAkEKdOFNsZx17ME/s1600/Dual+lever.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSHUcEZkSXmtVINY8d0owgcy1uSOw2X5ZSbVN78tRwGmFaa3c5BfnEumcIkEhyphenhyphen2Oa36J39zpufv1KxT_lKBd_sOw7jr_68gNBYvkN-0yPuO1N3C8fyc3OqFa3k-fPzPAkEKdOFNsZx17ME/s640/Dual+lever.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Dressed and polished, it looks the part. We'll see how it performs when the cables are fitted. I've also mounted a replica Lucas Dip switch / Horn Switch on the same clutch lever with a couple of M3 screws.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxkXh3PCYLy9QUSfz1yzAt7WAJGlNN_0nmjSe3ffX8AQWWBLbz5RJ2_2-X84-OzRu3x5yEiEGrIrz34tHDyc_6WsVPbhAclhJjb684A977_xDlwI5hrFiUR4G5YXF-q5AR6uxT1eO7s8eG/s1600/DUal+lever+on+bike.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxkXh3PCYLy9QUSfz1yzAt7WAJGlNN_0nmjSe3ffX8AQWWBLbz5RJ2_2-X84-OzRu3x5yEiEGrIrz34tHDyc_6WsVPbhAclhJjb684A977_xDlwI5hrFiUR4G5YXF-q5AR6uxT1eO7s8eG/s640/DUal+lever+on+bike.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I bought a standard Comet exhaust downpipe with the end already flanged and the threaded, finned retainer already fitted. It was almost right but sat a little too high and a little too far out, clouting the bottom of the gearbox instead of tucking in nicely beneath it. I guestimated that, if I cut the existing flange from the end of the pipe at about a 5 degree angle and welded on a machined extension piece, it would correct the positioning without damaging any exposed chrome. Hmmm.</div>
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So, on the right, below is a machined, mild steel collar, sized exactly the same as the existing pipe and flange. There's enough clearance inside the brass retainer to cope with the slight dog-leg in the newly welded end section.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu61lCIsqR3W_fJw_mURpUpHIqHEXKuxwXjMjqHM6Vad29te0n6P1Jl2oHwhvExz5809ZXZBp446VA3Y-_tamTwX1TX_EKvNDIUZdwEdpD5y0j7xYQyBlXZ2wAxb4-k29KYtIQA5ua-uzm/s1600/exhaust+extension+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="552" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu61lCIsqR3W_fJw_mURpUpHIqHEXKuxwXjMjqHM6Vad29te0n6P1Jl2oHwhvExz5809ZXZBp446VA3Y-_tamTwX1TX_EKvNDIUZdwEdpD5y0j7xYQyBlXZ2wAxb4-k29KYtIQA5ua-uzm/s640/exhaust+extension+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is the piece that I cut off. Just a couple of degrees angle in the right orientation is all that was needed to reposition the pipe.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUFOxPhSWckVDxTqmr-Y_89OSO6zogv7ObXQq3lsoALiT0bqNJpIpiNNgJV09xKrm4jn6XR_wsFuYI2tSDOjOglATckD7fdjva89TbhRPfTsOxOwaXgeN-Syqz9_FmBoV5ZC44pTFIw_hQ/s1600/Exhaust+offcut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUFOxPhSWckVDxTqmr-Y_89OSO6zogv7ObXQq3lsoALiT0bqNJpIpiNNgJV09xKrm4jn6XR_wsFuYI2tSDOjOglATckD7fdjva89TbhRPfTsOxOwaXgeN-Syqz9_FmBoV5ZC44pTFIw_hQ/s640/Exhaust+offcut.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I turned a piece of aluminium tube to slide down through the two parts and align them accurately enough for welding.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtDu4jV9Lqwe1gwhIjQDLmDd5x97r-GQ_VN0ewrvsOi3VcaHfZpfsXtez43_wYuHXQ22M_ifYpNP4hjVoT_5rnvh4jisXKAWjwJs5npF62JzsGyHpPZDEq0aPyy9UFE-iJqVrW5_kELa5f/s1600/Exhaust+extension+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtDu4jV9Lqwe1gwhIjQDLmDd5x97r-GQ_VN0ewrvsOi3VcaHfZpfsXtez43_wYuHXQ22M_ifYpNP4hjVoT_5rnvh4jisXKAWjwJs5npF62JzsGyHpPZDEq0aPyy9UFE-iJqVrW5_kELa5f/s640/Exhaust+extension+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I Mig'd it slowly to avoid blueing the chrome.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPsPerQNMHsfeiK7vJ0D6B2ZI60-dOaQA05XU_zm19xxaM-oPvV45XsaYZXcK5Xsi6GhaowSOPfOMbmpKZcUnNBwT8bE-C-PQi0WWRpySVdN0OMgQ0c1bpUmjvuQykP4lUxHMeElnze53q/s1600/Exhaust+extension+welded.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPsPerQNMHsfeiK7vJ0D6B2ZI60-dOaQA05XU_zm19xxaM-oPvV45XsaYZXcK5Xsi6GhaowSOPfOMbmpKZcUnNBwT8bE-C-PQi0WWRpySVdN0OMgQ0c1bpUmjvuQykP4lUxHMeElnze53q/s640/Exhaust+extension+welded.jpg" width="598" /></a></div>
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Here's the dressed weld. Exposed chrome is fine but I'll paint the bare mild steel with some exhaust paint for now. I don't expect it to last long after the engine's running though. Shouldn't be a problem.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFc0g9grOok5LL1l6P_Bi6Q2uU__hIyWZ0dBXONiRXnmunwg1yUPi5DYSZWho7LUXHdv0cOoxBsKWaxzrsE7yF8DoA40V_t0SAOCP6vVuNuYHntJY0ekFDHMuDfqTnww6nIaTOLDYQDmVV/s1600/exhaust+dressed+weld.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFc0g9grOok5LL1l6P_Bi6Q2uU__hIyWZ0dBXONiRXnmunwg1yUPi5DYSZWho7LUXHdv0cOoxBsKWaxzrsE7yF8DoA40V_t0SAOCP6vVuNuYHntJY0ekFDHMuDfqTnww6nIaTOLDYQDmVV/s640/exhaust+dressed+weld.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The outlet end of the exhaust is now nicely positioned below the gearbox, parallel to the frame and with clearance for the kick-start. I even managed to use it's existing bracket with a couple of aluminium spacers which had to be chamfered a little to clear the frame weld.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgumgrgNwNPaUhLmPAYtBT8TQdorcDA7Z9a5Wp34USqRLdGhn126emB2g7EjSQ7BRIvi0E-dVRdqTdxIgz2i7SkrO2da-RPYAOyUCPj2pfqGIeEes1YkkQ1oKXZOcGW2L8maLvGQJu5Z6Dy/s1600/Exhaust+rear+mount.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgumgrgNwNPaUhLmPAYtBT8TQdorcDA7Z9a5Wp34USqRLdGhn126emB2g7EjSQ7BRIvi0E-dVRdqTdxIgz2i7SkrO2da-RPYAOyUCPj2pfqGIeEes1YkkQ1oKXZOcGW2L8maLvGQJu5Z6Dy/s640/Exhaust+rear+mount.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Someone had made a rough and scabby steering stop from a piece of 1/4" ali (far left). It looked awful and didn't even do the job properly. Here's the first four stages of making a new one. Paper, 1mm Ali then 1/4" Ali roughly shaped and folded.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBinyJi44NPVhoozALD1CW-Tqch5IrvHvJFnW8iGkYAf2YaiOTDpUoBxzLj5NbJIgRMu0-QwDt4XF8N_4HSPbzbkrC1IoMluNkGLra0872rGZUdWSIj9oY_lVVob2vkg0DrJ8RpBH_QegL/s1600/Stteering+stop+stages.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBinyJi44NPVhoozALD1CW-Tqch5IrvHvJFnW8iGkYAf2YaiOTDpUoBxzLj5NbJIgRMu0-QwDt4XF8N_4HSPbzbkrC1IoMluNkGLra0872rGZUdWSIj9oY_lVVob2vkg0DrJ8RpBH_QegL/s640/Stteering+stop+stages.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The easiest way to make this cut-out.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOUrYnfBTounFW9rP-BGO6RYXFBcAwIpWhBWdP7E9aZt7HzUEdi3PX4y58ZPzCquK7CGU7_5mwhYl_nbpaF0fu3OqkajRh-EBAGQqt99Oy2tJAe9W0QfOVLFXWxm4T4IPXGwkYRQex-MXw/s1600/Steering+stop+drilled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOUrYnfBTounFW9rP-BGO6RYXFBcAwIpWhBWdP7E9aZt7HzUEdi3PX4y58ZPzCquK7CGU7_5mwhYl_nbpaF0fu3OqkajRh-EBAGQqt99Oy2tJAe9W0QfOVLFXWxm4T4IPXGwkYRQex-MXw/s320/Steering+stop+drilled.jpg" width="255" /></a></div>
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Much nicer.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbwmfxVSv3u54j6bEUwfMexiAiVe9AtFB1N0CcvFmWLty6OPiqjP7ipffk0ij7MAzfp17BVMP2wFfjxFfBnVTf4LkTKkkYEaqmFWA5-q8WVaP9CWqNEI4tK1DLguROXE1GYDfMexDIlQf6/s1600/Steering+stop+finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbwmfxVSv3u54j6bEUwfMexiAiVe9AtFB1N0CcvFmWLty6OPiqjP7ipffk0ij7MAzfp17BVMP2wFfjxFfBnVTf4LkTKkkYEaqmFWA5-q8WVaP9CWqNEI4tK1DLguROXE1GYDfMexDIlQf6/s640/Steering+stop+finished.jpg" width="430" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately, I had omitted to make a hole in the right hand gearbox mounting plate for the clutch cable to pass through on the way to it's mounting lug on the top of the box. I drilled a 2mm hole through a 1/4" UNF bolt and used it as a guide to drill a hole through the plate in the correct position.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5JUCCvw9hErTD_OZm18ofCOGMWIuXZ5A5HcmqFUjVLLY69KTKBGMtgHw0R2pq6UqH7wPT2al2DHgmSdxl0HHX-Mi84jWTdB5Mp90qrgAm1X0ZOiGOPPRODV_3TiI-Zaw1R95mi2nJmHB2/s1600/Clutch+cable+drilling.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5JUCCvw9hErTD_OZm18ofCOGMWIuXZ5A5HcmqFUjVLLY69KTKBGMtgHw0R2pq6UqH7wPT2al2DHgmSdxl0HHX-Mi84jWTdB5Mp90qrgAm1X0ZOiGOPPRODV_3TiI-Zaw1R95mi2nJmHB2/s640/Clutch+cable+drilling.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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There was just enough room to position my trusty Powerfile to grind away clearance for the cable.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUTVsjD7gv72xgLY__xIvfZrCQ3u8zfAZDeUrlsfPq21r0q5JkzBD4WnbwzbVWVryUVRc04h7UZl5n9RtPijPg8MFt1bbLY3NfAvOcdWCKmzVg7gBSEabrqqdnDvZYSqXHuJ-_HGpKsHCN/s1600/Powerfile+with+arrow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUTVsjD7gv72xgLY__xIvfZrCQ3u8zfAZDeUrlsfPq21r0q5JkzBD4WnbwzbVWVryUVRc04h7UZl5n9RtPijPg8MFt1bbLY3NfAvOcdWCKmzVg7gBSEabrqqdnDvZYSqXHuJ-_HGpKsHCN/s640/Powerfile+with+arrow.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Perfect clearance.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguLD2U_J6YYw149oldL9ByXFWt4dG9VEdj1qVFvt9oIy2Hw2WTopoE4UWkXzPSlDh7vVNmUaUu2-usfnl-9vSwd9jCbAigRe40E0u5Tik27HVOjD5e7G2NCEp1ZyFSv_1mQitMhcT5bafl/s1600/Clutch+cable+clearance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="460" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguLD2U_J6YYw149oldL9ByXFWt4dG9VEdj1qVFvt9oIy2Hw2WTopoE4UWkXzPSlDh7vVNmUaUu2-usfnl-9vSwd9jCbAigRe40E0u5Tik27HVOjD5e7G2NCEp1ZyFSv_1mQitMhcT5bafl/s640/Clutch+cable+clearance.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A long-overdue, new toolbox just for this project to replace the wobbly bench and cardboard boxes of bits & pieces. Not much tidier on top though.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheEfRcgI5dFo17trYgQi1GU_Xzqcad4ch4t3EfvpgcFutNoPwr7YoFjeDWgQ7P1UpOnnEMx5HYQeL1v6m0WtKncrQYrh0n4a2SCHhSmMAXaSGgwgU-vs0L2CeiuiaQPO_c6AowfSB0ZCe-/s1600/IMG_4178+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheEfRcgI5dFo17trYgQi1GU_Xzqcad4ch4t3EfvpgcFutNoPwr7YoFjeDWgQ7P1UpOnnEMx5HYQeL1v6m0WtKncrQYrh0n4a2SCHhSmMAXaSGgwgU-vs0L2CeiuiaQPO_c6AowfSB0ZCe-/s640/IMG_4178+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I found this alloy choke lever on ebay - apparently, early Triumph. I thought I may be able to 'tandem' mount it on the front brake lever to further 'de-clutter' the handlebars.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQGzVvIjN49d8naFygJM2LIN8-8yopmn6SKoLmxBzOOalBrSFI65P8D1Q9KheVqjvj_502LyHYl7CA7sA0c6lN2DkSbHBVM5E-1oKAhnz8iHj58Q_RQCfeAGDgXwNYwdM3EO0ixscoSGtG/s1600/Ali+choke+lever.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQGzVvIjN49d8naFygJM2LIN8-8yopmn6SKoLmxBzOOalBrSFI65P8D1Q9KheVqjvj_502LyHYl7CA7sA0c6lN2DkSbHBVM5E-1oKAhnz8iHj58Q_RQCfeAGDgXwNYwdM3EO0ixscoSGtG/s640/Ali+choke+lever.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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I drilled and tapped the raised boss on the underside of the lever with two holes M3. Incidentally, those 'V' Blocks it's sitting on were some of the first tools I made in my first apprenticeship year at Marconi.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4i5baPz_Dz7jp4IwgqQ9A41BcRWmVzwYrHE8V2f0fDDVBZ7BEBEwqHBLHK_VpKjfshUlqQadyeeYNEWRzm4j3gQEPmk8a8UuzUuiipU_0gcWhrtO76t3T-7kMQleVT6ihG5JDAUWOLSxL/s1600/tapping+choke+lever.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4i5baPz_Dz7jp4IwgqQ9A41BcRWmVzwYrHE8V2f0fDDVBZ7BEBEwqHBLHK_VpKjfshUlqQadyeeYNEWRzm4j3gQEPmk8a8UuzUuiipU_0gcWhrtO76t3T-7kMQleVT6ihG5JDAUWOLSxL/s640/tapping+choke+lever.jpg" width="596" /></a></div>
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The hole for the cable nipple was too small so I machined it out to 1/4". The brass nipple is sitting in there.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2YlbXJzrUvicYNM8YM2cggd1UfbyfUgPqoUkMdJJGwDuaoaHSzrrLY3Ft_KBpjlVO6NpCgdIU-ZhPtiExq9YQFl8V9x0TGus1Qc_VQC7GrQJM0yKvY89hyphenhyphenxNLzRaAVx_0R4knvTXCi1iM/s1600/Enlarging+choke+lever+nipple+hole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2YlbXJzrUvicYNM8YM2cggd1UfbyfUgPqoUkMdJJGwDuaoaHSzrrLY3Ft_KBpjlVO6NpCgdIU-ZhPtiExq9YQFl8V9x0TGus1Qc_VQC7GrQJM0yKvY89hyphenhyphenxNLzRaAVx_0R4knvTXCi1iM/s640/Enlarging+choke+lever+nipple+hole.jpg" width="522" /></a></div>
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I drilled and countersunk two holes right through the front brake lever and mounted the choke with some 20mm long countersunk screws. Quite neat, I thought.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPo3QFxDNK8qkNSNrGwcdy5FZ50Di6DUJsB5o9t_u-yX3gCGYPnH60Q4HXMWZD3RfQ-B2GLftgdgPUtdd-qVWUhvuvUSA-IfGMPADGZbipYClqEZ8DOsk5bMM0-UpzJrQ7qEL8x3-Iq0rE/s1600/Clutch+and+choke+levers+underside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPo3QFxDNK8qkNSNrGwcdy5FZ50Di6DUJsB5o9t_u-yX3gCGYPnH60Q4HXMWZD3RfQ-B2GLftgdgPUtdd-qVWUhvuvUSA-IfGMPADGZbipYClqEZ8DOsk5bMM0-UpzJrQ7qEL8x3-Iq0rE/s640/Clutch+and+choke+levers+underside.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I know I've 'banged-on' about this stuff before but it really is the bollocks for touching-up. There are loads of little scuff marks around my frame - some through to the metal and gone rusty. I rub them down and prep the area around with 400 Wet & Dry. Local masking with sheets and some masking tape is usually adequate. Then a few coats of BlackCote - half an hour apart and leave to 'cure' overnight. Cure is the right word because this stuff is Isocyanate-based and cures by reacting to moisture in the atmosphere. Overspray and and blended areas can then be flattened with 1000 wet & dry and polished with 'T-Cut'. Beware of heavy coats - it runs very easily. As an added bonus BlackCote will treat and stabilise light surface rust on bare metal along the way.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhe1v9V9dIeqZWGU1wA2P2M_ZedC-GML8CmUPjwaxQYsgH3O7bSuN0msMGIRjZ0Yj06K4eXixgwMsO_g_9eR6KSgvsBzBrHXARuB4xaDKAxYOjB881iYzQ5q88Igb7mLPpdzouxxV3zbG/s1600/Blackcot+%2526+frame.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhe1v9V9dIeqZWGU1wA2P2M_ZedC-GML8CmUPjwaxQYsgH3O7bSuN0msMGIRjZ0Yj06K4eXixgwMsO_g_9eR6KSgvsBzBrHXARuB4xaDKAxYOjB881iYzQ5q88Igb7mLPpdzouxxV3zbG/s640/Blackcot+%2526+frame.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I drilled and tapped two M8 threads in a strip of 25mm x 6mm steel and brazed it between the top frame rails. Two CBS Bump-stops make adjustable supports for the rear of the fuel tank.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBae-buMfY4YbHkEcMo3tumq6uSGbqVsB7_7OdRKWKkL9Sil0s0AAxEn6rC1oP0mAcpWZD25f42SXgSzaYpZUCTnw02lqEgx5xbkHbFxMkULXHxgghDEnTXOVti8uhxI5NJah7CPbBDkRF/s1600/Tank+support+rubbers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="596" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBae-buMfY4YbHkEcMo3tumq6uSGbqVsB7_7OdRKWKkL9Sil0s0AAxEn6rC1oP0mAcpWZD25f42SXgSzaYpZUCTnw02lqEgx5xbkHbFxMkULXHxgghDEnTXOVti8uhxI5NJah7CPbBDkRF/s640/Tank+support+rubbers.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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These two pieces of split rubber hose are the only other supports the tank needs. I've wrapped them tightly with insulation tape. Fitted here, they'll be hidden by the overlap of the tank.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuuVmdPayK77jRm4fGnnHOAIP2pyOWc_WCK6fkXhCnqEPBEpr_P2N5b472J56UvfkjS7mgXCTVOaCEVGCq5QxV47jr6sZz5J-_M97m_hFvrxRrjaJPZS5qyZqIUKMdQ3khMvVgJpC2PUaX/s1600/Front+tank+mounts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuuVmdPayK77jRm4fGnnHOAIP2pyOWc_WCK6fkXhCnqEPBEpr_P2N5b472J56UvfkjS7mgXCTVOaCEVGCq5QxV47jr6sZz5J-_M97m_hFvrxRrjaJPZS5qyZqIUKMdQ3khMvVgJpC2PUaX/s640/Front+tank+mounts.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Another of the dozens of little 'just' jobs. I had to shave a few thou from the tapered face of the kickstart cotter pin. It now fits properly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgBCjHKIm3LREMCIl0v72uIVYltVaMljADY9WQHBPH6Cuymn8TsNPk2hh5Hqiok7Wec4wHuTMFDZQZN_xJCA8oc0pP89w7oTOJza9TUrJiwgBlhK-1QswpXtBW-9LQxFt2-Q_AwGLmOMR5/s1600/Shaving+off+cotter+pin+taper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="552" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgBCjHKIm3LREMCIl0v72uIVYltVaMljADY9WQHBPH6Cuymn8TsNPk2hh5Hqiok7Wec4wHuTMFDZQZN_xJCA8oc0pP89w7oTOJza9TUrJiwgBlhK-1QswpXtBW-9LQxFt2-Q_AwGLmOMR5/s640/Shaving+off+cotter+pin+taper.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The company that rebuilt the engine only pre-fitted the timing cover loosely because I had yet to choose and fit the dynamo/alternator. I was disappointed to find it quite grubby on the inside so I decided to strip it completely and give it a good clean - including the oil galleries.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqHul5CSg9CCJw3M-MHjcR-F9btfGJMuXaHYYqHA7xzx4G_96iR0jxK0siybRbv7YX7IWdOCcZk6dyFziOEY5As0TC0WsgYmPzaqS3bCeIph2glzNgz6oHedm26MT8mNEV9GcO7w9yKDBN/s1600/timing+cover+inside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqHul5CSg9CCJw3M-MHjcR-F9btfGJMuXaHYYqHA7xzx4G_96iR0jxK0siybRbv7YX7IWdOCcZk6dyFziOEY5As0TC0WsgYmPzaqS3bCeIph2glzNgz6oHedm26MT8mNEV9GcO7w9yKDBN/s640/timing+cover+inside.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We use 'Gun-wash' as a general workshop thinners and cleaning solvent. A 25 litre drum is very inexpensive from our local motor factor. 'Salad Cream and Tomato Ketchup' bottles make ideal 'squirty' containers. They're all around the workshop. I've pushed a short piece of PVC tubing into the cap for washing through the galleries. I've bent the end of a piece of stainless wire around a strip of cotton cloth and I've extended this small nylon brush with some brazing rod to get right down inside them.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5ibMyzF4z1nawIIeDCwbfKuP-JhGjOJaGTHTxXn1SAMq0u2t6xUceyO4G1xnF0Nxe3xfr4BesGFacqW8iWw769AuE-VDS5mZg3hBzqLB3VbvymLGLqYUIdgPH9EjwqWDnmTckr4OVDYK/s1600/GunWash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5ibMyzF4z1nawIIeDCwbfKuP-JhGjOJaGTHTxXn1SAMq0u2t6xUceyO4G1xnF0Nxe3xfr4BesGFacqW8iWw769AuE-VDS5mZg3hBzqLB3VbvymLGLqYUIdgPH9EjwqWDnmTckr4OVDYK/s320/GunWash.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKSS__XBr8DZy7mKnbu_9Pw9brN_WtyYK2TF8VRJJ2WbatAc49TTIkuW_vmSMWs38kwEMMrtcgn4R7FaXDZa-V-TkzqTmX7NeP1K0-yKhvbjr0OdX8EYCHSe5sCK05CdR6BlFcEe9ESJFC/s1600/Gallery+cleaners.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKSS__XBr8DZy7mKnbu_9Pw9brN_WtyYK2TF8VRJJ2WbatAc49TTIkuW_vmSMWs38kwEMMrtcgn4R7FaXDZa-V-TkzqTmX7NeP1K0-yKhvbjr0OdX8EYCHSe5sCK05CdR6BlFcEe9ESJFC/s320/Gallery+cleaners.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Here's the result. Maybe it's me - just expecting too much. But I have to say I'm disappointed and a little concerned. The engine was rebuilt by a reputable Vincent specialist with all new bearings inside, new piston and many other new parts in the head and timing case.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Y6b6un4_kFUZPSlD35fnHzrWNqIdgnxxWipvz_OHjfFYW0uFKoiv4wLFWXAKI9MAIiOkrhlTPU1zjiV3ILcGSl8cdp3lq1Bez8KGS0zaAOakLCjpFnO9GGgVPa76fwRFuOjrXTJ7Pr7X/s1600/Dirty+thinners.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Y6b6un4_kFUZPSlD35fnHzrWNqIdgnxxWipvz_OHjfFYW0uFKoiv4wLFWXAKI9MAIiOkrhlTPU1zjiV3ILcGSl8cdp3lq1Bez8KGS0zaAOakLCjpFnO9GGgVPa76fwRFuOjrXTJ7Pr7X/s640/Dirty+thinners.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's the inside of the timing case. I've just fitted the new ALTON alternator pinion. Everything looks business-like and correctly assembled but it's obvious that the components and cases haven't even been washed. It's very grubby and the threads haven't even been cleaned out. </div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Ikig8twWAiz3xxP-r5WYxfda5oQpIkeK33C51nuf6mrbB8kwkXr2GRHLjcgtP4WpEzPOItTYmgIgJYgeZexa9_nm1aw0WULQ7u-tNjxwBnyxfQJ6d4-JVSFRBM2x8x8U_5fmvwTXMeTT/s1600/inside+timing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Ikig8twWAiz3xxP-r5WYxfda5oQpIkeK33C51nuf6mrbB8kwkXr2GRHLjcgtP4WpEzPOItTYmgIgJYgeZexa9_nm1aw0WULQ7u-tNjxwBnyxfQJ6d4-JVSFRBM2x8x8U_5fmvwTXMeTT/s640/inside+timing.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Contrast that with my Son, Matthew's Super Rocket engine which was recently rebuilt by SRM. </div>
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It is absolutely sparklingly clean and immaculately prepared - inside and out.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh40BST69ztW2_DklthmtVp7WPz28mXMJP3hOKCJpq6cE2dF3TQZLPM7YzcdnYVu7c08iJlu3GwYTlK0Mh7TEmUM_kPhCtiwvRaK0oWHUShYGY1H3Fn12KD_JIHAynOg5SF-lM65UL7i0IO/s1600/Matts+A10+engine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh40BST69ztW2_DklthmtVp7WPz28mXMJP3hOKCJpq6cE2dF3TQZLPM7YzcdnYVu7c08iJlu3GwYTlK0Mh7TEmUM_kPhCtiwvRaK0oWHUShYGY1H3Fn12KD_JIHAynOg5SF-lM65UL7i0IO/s640/Matts+A10+engine.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Oh well. Apart from taking the engine out and stripping and rebuilding it myself I have no option but to trust that the important bits were done properly and carry on with the build. </div>
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Here, I'm cleaning out the threads in the timing cover. I remembered an old tip. Fill the flutes of the tap with grease and you'll trap any debris in the flutes as you remove the tap.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqQw_7gDwkB7lXA5vWU9b7TgAWnnwn9XhsUnRw2d5Zq6vhBGxWpitKmI17kh876N8obCtsasd26ozKllhRIuTwJuxCnKnKIfqQyJ3vm4b51qctr0uyVg0LSuXo3I7vFbn-nWT8VHqXW_EU/s1600/Grease+on+tap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqQw_7gDwkB7lXA5vWU9b7TgAWnnwn9XhsUnRw2d5Zq6vhBGxWpitKmI17kh876N8obCtsasd26ozKllhRIuTwJuxCnKnKIfqQyJ3vm4b51qctr0uyVg0LSuXo3I7vFbn-nWT8VHqXW_EU/s640/Grease+on+tap.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I have boxes of assorted copper washers in the workshop but never seem to have the sizes I need. Here I'm boring one out to a larger I.D.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQkfYMYyEz3Qxd7CCI6tJGceK1FpJzDAffrJ3S62qHzSZjoKjQz7Q-i3TrN__8vCirKqWqL8nMSu_ALUul8uA4U4u8LhZhitVGX8JOA2Mq9yF-qnymmIwtqC5i3zP-D0pMx1XezDhiWicp/s1600/making+copper+washer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQkfYMYyEz3Qxd7CCI6tJGceK1FpJzDAffrJ3S62qHzSZjoKjQz7Q-i3TrN__8vCirKqWqL8nMSu_ALUul8uA4U4u8LhZhitVGX8JOA2Mq9yF-qnymmIwtqC5i3zP-D0pMx1XezDhiWicp/s640/making+copper+washer.jpg" width="632" /></a></div>
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Here's the mounting clamp I made for the ALTON alternator. We were given a bunch of enamel Union Flag badges and some coloured and some shades of grey. I stuck a grey on on. </div>
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Why not. Fly the flag proudly !!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxOjgqp6S8DLPvv1wnk83Z9kDp9djnpSVB1s3UBUTd86U9PahXGhpF3Dg72mKZPICxJ5an77HOotKerN8yLSNwPXnuRUY16AV1js8_Czkvr6DSiQWstthAU8-JMD8gAtRaFQCXmmp_9U2m/s1600/Alton+alternator.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxOjgqp6S8DLPvv1wnk83Z9kDp9djnpSVB1s3UBUTd86U9PahXGhpF3Dg72mKZPICxJ5an77HOotKerN8yLSNwPXnuRUY16AV1js8_Czkvr6DSiQWstthAU8-JMD8gAtRaFQCXmmp_9U2m/s640/Alton+alternator.jpg" width="626" /></a></div>
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This is our big-old polishing head. Polishing is a filthy job so it's tucked away in the corner of the metal store with a massive extractor fan right behind it. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw9SWe0UhMmhKeVNmlnoEflEuXp_Le6nMZRHj70gPg5oF2sZkq-peGhOKrXCxw9V5IOiWX84Wwhf3v71mW-H1Q2wjFZVcMa7WwKtJ9_Tir3IKmHakBQuP5tPt2JRqZ8sgUUdeqFuS4SrK2/s1600/Polishing+head.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw9SWe0UhMmhKeVNmlnoEflEuXp_Le6nMZRHj70gPg5oF2sZkq-peGhOKrXCxw9V5IOiWX84Wwhf3v71mW-H1Q2wjFZVcMa7WwKtJ9_Tir3IKmHakBQuP5tPt2JRqZ8sgUUdeqFuS4SrK2/s640/Polishing+head.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Time to tackle the oil feed and return pipes to and from the head. I could make them in rubber, routed roughly between top to bottom but I decided to go for 8mm (5/16") copper - both for neatness and a period-look. I'll join them at each end with a short piece of rubber. A tight bend is required at the top because the carb is quite close so I used a CBS hose former. A hose former has a tight-fitting stainless spring welded at each end to a bendable stainless strip. You can bend the strip through a very tight angle and because the spring is tight around the hose, the hose will not collapse.</div>
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I'm making a pattern with a piece of 2mm aluminium welding rod, bending it to follow the route around the engine.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJahyphenhyphenQEPVSXGTq93INIE4YMKkShmhvT7emyl-u7xFEfVCcnGiBWH7LgRAJ4lQrJMp0eu_0enBEDycesMQFo0Jwha12PqFHMUKDD_6gOis2cPJWcF0oBnaiNYqFkcbth6zqQ780NVYaZxOO/s1600/Wire+former+template.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJahyphenhyphenQEPVSXGTq93INIE4YMKkShmhvT7emyl-u7xFEfVCcnGiBWH7LgRAJ4lQrJMp0eu_0enBEDycesMQFo0Jwha12PqFHMUKDD_6gOis2cPJWcF0oBnaiNYqFkcbth6zqQ780NVYaZxOO/s640/Wire+former+template.jpg" width="478" /></a></div>
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Copper tube is supplied on a coil so the first job is to straighten it. CBS supply these pipe straighteners for several pipe diameters. Just push the bent pipe into the rollers at one end and it comes out dead straight from the other end. Magic.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgfojw2tMuQKCOCrabKDSipmT68hqfM4Vf7fmMUJvIMOK2e6rf1A1UsgIoHGlQ4yd7bhaRCKsG7_g_rdqYDHNBZ_MbfLEVyRRGZAOCSfV4dnTekIDjEcNKNIgYw04GB8nHlQGJPmEd3MVK/s1600/Pipe+straightener.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgfojw2tMuQKCOCrabKDSipmT68hqfM4Vf7fmMUJvIMOK2e6rf1A1UsgIoHGlQ4yd7bhaRCKsG7_g_rdqYDHNBZ_MbfLEVyRRGZAOCSfV4dnTekIDjEcNKNIgYw04GB8nHlQGJPmEd3MVK/s640/Pipe+straightener.jpg" width="406" /></a></div>
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This is a CBS Tube Bender. It's quite compact and easy to use with a handy degree scale. The centre groove is for 8mm tube and there is also a 6mm and 10mm groove.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjViZSow2-ACDgemgU_Y5CNyk6wMD_SznKrYMOcSiu3LUu4F4Zy4Q7cUw_PRaJV6RmmLm_wi-T7irabspiTBxYvHu8lkthyhHQBNdKuEReb5AWqrT4gFnUR2xmJm8GXbOqshWzxLoPcjivk/s1600/Bending+copper+pipe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjViZSow2-ACDgemgU_Y5CNyk6wMD_SznKrYMOcSiu3LUu4F4Zy4Q7cUw_PRaJV6RmmLm_wi-T7irabspiTBxYvHu8lkthyhHQBNdKuEReb5AWqrT4gFnUR2xmJm8GXbOqshWzxLoPcjivk/s640/Bending+copper+pipe.jpg" width="568" /></a></div>
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This is a CBS pipe Flaring Tool. It will form a bead on the end of pipes and tubes from 3/16" to 1/2" diameter to prevent the pipe blowing off the hose under pressure.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfOoGUdyeXsfVYMS8kck7GTc0vMiXzvkhU6ojNJ3Sn2W51uz0t1FApP8EoB4ay2_bde2kmRuTec_VdLMXWI_FjMAgQhWqhhqnaSVusyHHTVeCLXoL2V3lucgQm_tAT8EDrpMxOU6uSsgmC/s1600/FLARE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="624" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfOoGUdyeXsfVYMS8kck7GTc0vMiXzvkhU6ojNJ3Sn2W51uz0t1FApP8EoB4ay2_bde2kmRuTec_VdLMXWI_FjMAgQhWqhhqnaSVusyHHTVeCLXoL2V3lucgQm_tAT8EDrpMxOU6uSsgmC/s640/FLARE.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A bit blurry - but you get the idea.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfF7seVo-CLCVBWga3OKLrwx9VBhyAA68br6ia9HT5ORLA0y9hBwQ65BM1LgYPGEoU6ipI1HySz1Qwiki2y-n2Cu7vv23WusU-IhrRTuHObTd9f0qTuPeizN8xgKcHAy3M9qEO1BuW2MI1/s1600/Bead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfF7seVo-CLCVBWga3OKLrwx9VBhyAA68br6ia9HT5ORLA0y9hBwQ65BM1LgYPGEoU6ipI1HySz1Qwiki2y-n2Cu7vv23WusU-IhrRTuHObTd9f0qTuPeizN8xgKcHAy3M9qEO1BuW2MI1/s640/Bead.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here it is, finished off with two CBS twin 8mm Hose Separators. It's remarkably secure and requires no additional fixings. Better polish it up though.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4Q9cMDj4yb4A3om-CYWqS_x-9tFxLNPTunP9lK_a5wQO8ne9F5Puz87AoiRIqisEVJc6jwR-XsTc2gXCy6AZ7H_Wk6QAKvOkynCAHFwgwXipqXgMzXwiLbYUHbjmJR_4rFIihvnSAKWg/s1600/COpper+oil+pipes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4Q9cMDj4yb4A3om-CYWqS_x-9tFxLNPTunP9lK_a5wQO8ne9F5Puz87AoiRIqisEVJc6jwR-XsTc2gXCy6AZ7H_Wk6QAKvOkynCAHFwgwXipqXgMzXwiLbYUHbjmJR_4rFIihvnSAKWg/s640/COpper+oil+pipes.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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And the view from the top. I've used CBS 'O' Clips for one end of each rubber joining hose. These are 'permanent. one use clips' that should never need to be removed except for hose replacement. And I'll use our stainless fuel hose clips on the other ends for dismantle-ability. I just made up that word.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRoN2pd-kPtqAV4WlbiS7urtgRs6IB1BMJcp2o5eBcrfB-Pyfd_GNX0-aMZlHIoN91RiTfXtaKGbjiDSTI0w-p_B8vVnMQ7pyU41FtCYGf3D0KKncc4jPPULh-UZIT6zafi0y9aBCzKOGl/s1600/looking+down+on+engine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRoN2pd-kPtqAV4WlbiS7urtgRs6IB1BMJcp2o5eBcrfB-Pyfd_GNX0-aMZlHIoN91RiTfXtaKGbjiDSTI0w-p_B8vVnMQ7pyU41FtCYGf3D0KKncc4jPPULh-UZIT6zafi0y9aBCzKOGl/s640/looking+down+on+engine.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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There's not much clearance between the top of the carb and the bottom of the fuel tank so I though some angled cable guides would be a fair solution. Here's how I made them.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJSASCRNnS0_YlFAvXoa78-CEXeG8FfS2bRP11jLM8KgcxLm_xvQ4rhaANpLGiri7UoeqR2jhIt6Eb33JJ1G7SRtm60CcKWzSueOmaMzsPcQNiwiz_O6EgK1SgCXbE2g7m86LmUsyD1Lbn/s1600/Cable+angle+guides+finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJSASCRNnS0_YlFAvXoa78-CEXeG8FfS2bRP11jLM8KgcxLm_xvQ4rhaANpLGiri7UoeqR2jhIt6Eb33JJ1G7SRtm60CcKWzSueOmaMzsPcQNiwiz_O6EgK1SgCXbE2g7m86LmUsyD1Lbn/s640/Cable+angle+guides+finished.jpg" width="464" /></a></div>
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I used 3/16" Copper/Nickel brake pipe for the 90 degree bend it'll wear much better than standard copper. I bent it with a CBS Small Tube Bender which will also bend 1/8" and 1/4" tube. For the ferrule, I used 8mm Copper tube and cut it with a CBS Pipe Cutter.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqoHieKLId0QmNiDG9AR6jaO7mFnLZBiTQXs94i2U2k78u1x3gU06xb-CIIcff6fbHMNhBqnnsJPln7EXd7QdId4NAMUT2ZGL5RSd47abh99UXKCTiXq9PTXUp7O62NV2-BVL_ABAdH8C2/s1600/mini+bender+and+cop+Nick.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqoHieKLId0QmNiDG9AR6jaO7mFnLZBiTQXs94i2U2k78u1x3gU06xb-CIIcff6fbHMNhBqnnsJPln7EXd7QdId4NAMUT2ZGL5RSd47abh99UXKCTiXq9PTXUp7O62NV2-BVL_ABAdH8C2/s640/mini+bender+and+cop+Nick.jpg" width="448" /></a></div>
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEn8hBfI7RU-YKxeRFFeOFpm_CFoya0PCBtOe3u0GlKpX6b28ySRjzXx2tEOISUIfnx387QlsLU6klOyhdyo5dnxgoRiu6JqX4gafn6hZM8-2kFaajlbjz-hDlsFIVbksDfBkNj2KrPoWp/s1600/Pipe+cut+and+cop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="630" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEn8hBfI7RU-YKxeRFFeOFpm_CFoya0PCBtOe3u0GlKpX6b28ySRjzXx2tEOISUIfnx387QlsLU6klOyhdyo5dnxgoRiu6JqX4gafn6hZM8-2kFaajlbjz-hDlsFIVbksDfBkNj2KrPoWp/s640/Pipe+cut+and+cop.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The carb was supplied with two little brass ferrules which drop into the two holes in the carb lid. I silver-soldered the three parts together. We have a butane gas torch for general warming-up but I prefer Oxy/Acetylene for silver soldering - it's much more precise and controllable.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiztlkgvehiAmCW2RQNqqgRst8lWr1L4WMGJWnuK7plPop60oWAfKsj0Xklc0j0XBuBSvjrbknhrmQBWEjp8YYInpQ3ddAq1AbJ1S587_-U2cOzgMgrmOliX9rjOkd1gwD8b3r4myX2q8ej/s1600/Silver+soldering+cable+guide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="524" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiztlkgvehiAmCW2RQNqqgRst8lWr1L4WMGJWnuK7plPop60oWAfKsj0Xklc0j0XBuBSvjrbknhrmQBWEjp8YYInpQ3ddAq1AbJ1S587_-U2cOzgMgrmOliX9rjOkd1gwD8b3r4myX2q8ej/s640/Silver+soldering+cable+guide.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The finished item.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgef0ao-75WqXyEageEJc8qsDknu_AILqjkRvQO3_w-oICAVC6Lx6W9NvrbS8SwOl1ueC9-BAy2-Mq35tzBnk9IzidmH-TVODZw_0y21JhO7fwvySUMogGsOMK4LnFId-Qn5e0dMM2CN2Zv/s1600/cable+guide+soldered.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgef0ao-75WqXyEageEJc8qsDknu_AILqjkRvQO3_w-oICAVC6Lx6W9NvrbS8SwOl1ueC9-BAy2-Mq35tzBnk9IzidmH-TVODZw_0y21JhO7fwvySUMogGsOMK4LnFId-Qn5e0dMM2CN2Zv/s640/cable+guide+soldered.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A rider's eye view of the bars so far. I'm not convinced that the shape of the decompression lever is right and I'm not really happy with the throttle control. It was sold as made from aluminium but it's not - just chromed Mazac like most others on the market. I have an Amal one that is better quality but which has a strange, titanium-like tint to the chrome. Hmmm.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRmSwqANkZ1kGoMgaIOhhIz6AX8JV8OZyR4SyWc3Xiy48VK-hsWDHq-xzblplrWaK8Ei_9D0bDyGNj9DApBpQU6akf58H-LdSb_-tI84qrpMaHvmlovJibm11PoPM0ospHk6-c7n_4ureP/s1600/HANDLEBARS.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRmSwqANkZ1kGoMgaIOhhIz6AX8JV8OZyR4SyWc3Xiy48VK-hsWDHq-xzblplrWaK8Ei_9D0bDyGNj9DApBpQU6akf58H-LdSb_-tI84qrpMaHvmlovJibm11PoPM0ospHk6-c7n_4ureP/s640/HANDLEBARS.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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That'll do for this post. I'll continue with a new one. If anyone has any questions or comments please don't hesitate to email me at <span style="font-size: x-large;">neil@cbsonline.co.uk</span></div>
Neil Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15041603942855623882noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7241217104929214113.post-74879361954153474912015-07-23T08:33:00.000-07:002015-12-29T00:30:18.561-08:00Post No 2 - Making the Primary Chain Case<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhndjGAQR3Pix-WiIThhTy_TndCFytMJNuvbb1sj0z3rFm9sUWOgLeGP_L4sCju-_ogrkJB23nVyIwNdHFZYZ6OtC_7zqRYpu7CfayLL1xDsHavj-ciDo4Gp7qV3cGAl7pCy70aQGs3lbwv/s1600/NORVIN+CBS+LOGO.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="62" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhndjGAQR3Pix-WiIThhTy_TndCFytMJNuvbb1sj0z3rFm9sUWOgLeGP_L4sCju-_ogrkJB23nVyIwNdHFZYZ6OtC_7zqRYpu7CfayLL1xDsHavj-ciDo4Gp7qV3cGAl7pCy70aQGs3lbwv/s400/NORVIN+CBS+LOGO.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">POST NUMBER 2 - MAKING THE PRIMARY CHAIN CASE</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">my email: neil@cbsonline.co.uk</span><br />
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Well, that's the engine and gearbox mounted. Primary chain is trial fitted OK, rear sprockets are in-line, looking good and all is Hunky Dory. Next up, it's the primary drive chain case. As I've said earlier, I'll be running the 'O' ring chain dry so there will be no need to make it sealed and leak-proof. I have a few ideas, starting with a piece of 10mm thick aluminium plate for the inner casing.<br />
As is the way with this project it'll evolve as I progress - hopefully without too many dramas and without too much metal flying across the workshop into the scrap bin.<br />
From what I have here, I can determine the centres distance between the engine crank and gearbox mainshaft, the allowance I need for chain stretch and clearance around the chain. It make sense to follow the profile of the engine crankcase and to use the existing mounting threads.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLmYR6Kelb5hNrjD8cYFre_NxlVyArEcE9KoG3YPonMn_5A5uxC27XdpkDFUlzPuxijDFebhobJm7tEc0vit1jpyJuWSKXV9ippU14u9KvefBG1F_7KTFox14J0xcP5emq-hAa3x_lyCm_/s1600/NORVIN.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLmYR6Kelb5hNrjD8cYFre_NxlVyArEcE9KoG3YPonMn_5A5uxC27XdpkDFUlzPuxijDFebhobJm7tEc0vit1jpyJuWSKXV9ippU14u9KvefBG1F_7KTFox14J0xcP5emq-hAa3x_lyCm_/s640/NORVIN.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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So, here's the first heavy paper pattern. I've measured the centres for the crankshaft and gearbox mainshaft in it's most forward position. I've marked the chain run on it's maximum dimensions and allowed an extra 20mm for adjustment when the chain stretches. It's quite important to use the correct weight paper. Too thin (like copy paper) and it'll flop around too much. Too thick and you won't be able to use the following method for marking the holes and edges. I use 250gsm - like a christmas card.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLnmo0PweFqSZ0ujKdumn3hb-U6nJE_QTUYd6RvBhBrWAz2ifKI4tOVcL4p_Mp7UHeOTe0tTFaCjRW3zXDcBKxOeBQfPn89_yzrzk_Q-nrNZ5Ih4QlDYxpYD0KUzizA9ClAK8Ej3mpAyau/s1600/Pri+case+pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLnmo0PweFqSZ0ujKdumn3hb-U6nJE_QTUYd6RvBhBrWAz2ifKI4tOVcL4p_Mp7UHeOTe0tTFaCjRW3zXDcBKxOeBQfPn89_yzrzk_Q-nrNZ5Ih4QlDYxpYD0KUzizA9ClAK8Ej3mpAyau/s640/Pri+case+pattern.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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There are several ways to transfer the screw hole positions in the crankcase to the plate. The simplest is to just press and rub the hole with your grubby finger. It'll leave a witness mark of the holes. I did the same with the front edge of the casing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6R4eloPEzxIFcfoUTYVJ_dyc6pk1T9_ugvSaeDnVGx-vO_iRWhZ6rdbD2Woj-rqHo8OQo9KIMa5mdjtqbiJPGy0h6bbhwhEC_LLVk4GDGxIORsd19cowvWLHUggJz2q3dsYdOlWzXICrf/s1600/hole+grubby+marks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6R4eloPEzxIFcfoUTYVJ_dyc6pk1T9_ugvSaeDnVGx-vO_iRWhZ6rdbD2Woj-rqHo8OQo9KIMa5mdjtqbiJPGy0h6bbhwhEC_LLVk4GDGxIORsd19cowvWLHUggJz2q3dsYdOlWzXICrf/s320/hole+grubby+marks.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I then taped the pattern to my 10mm thick aluminium sheet and used my Optical Transfer punch to locate the centre of the grubby marks and pop a centre punch at each position. The positions shouldn't be far out but I'll double check before I drill. I've marked the shaft centres on the ali and pop marked those too. And I've scribed a line around the edge of the pattern. </div>
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My Makita battery Jigsaw is perfect for cutting the plate. Plenty of WD40 keeps it moving. I'll cut one or two millimetres from the line.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6aLhzOO9HCBUyXS3nHV9IzMgBm8PykpjX2fhJsBOjS-UR-aONGdLrbsXXQn3SrPIIcHTARUbycVpasyFQSG0zdQyf87KwzstEHfhf54IqKZtRORo82Tc61sAd62KSwAf3tvHtE3eY9N_s/s1600/Jigsaw+plate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6aLhzOO9HCBUyXS3nHV9IzMgBm8PykpjX2fhJsBOjS-UR-aONGdLrbsXXQn3SrPIIcHTARUbycVpasyFQSG0zdQyf87KwzstEHfhf54IqKZtRORo82Tc61sAd62KSwAf3tvHtE3eY9N_s/s640/Jigsaw+plate.jpg" width="526" /></a></div>
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Here I'm cutting the clearance hole for the crank seal carrier with a hole saw on my milling machine. This is one from the inexpensive CBS Hole Saw Set. I set the slowest speed and used loads of WD40. Cutting from both sides to meet in the middle. Keep stopping to clear the teeth. It took 10 minutes or so but it made a pretty clean hole. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif08E26gB8GdvDk7W6nrP8la0SNOdD4wKMoLa_OyygxWuBVkHhdITewytHKlDH7xjlMwSMHwEyXsMS9JjR0XOo4065DNaNAwOWftuNgZXiit6lY1RjosMHk5z_P4BY6R3MhZz1s74r6E6t/s1600/Holesaw+plate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif08E26gB8GdvDk7W6nrP8la0SNOdD4wKMoLa_OyygxWuBVkHhdITewytHKlDH7xjlMwSMHwEyXsMS9JjR0XOo4065DNaNAwOWftuNgZXiit6lY1RjosMHk5z_P4BY6R3MhZz1s74r6E6t/s640/Holesaw+plate.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I've mounted the plate on a rotary table and centred it on the gearbox shaft centre. I'm machining the rear curved edge.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSrXZZI3z3B3z_YHUu_PgAOsSk_PbdynFnoMoILMgw6uAbvE2e9cIlr9Cfvox_vvbOMzsWXMAjsd0BirTFP-COcayRBHPtFYrjI5_6etG2Lew-rdOQ4OZ-XHqWWTTWFNUeoaSS6oj0Nvfz/s1600/Inner+pri+plate+machining1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSrXZZI3z3B3z_YHUu_PgAOsSk_PbdynFnoMoILMgw6uAbvE2e9cIlr9Cfvox_vvbOMzsWXMAjsd0BirTFP-COcayRBHPtFYrjI5_6etG2Lew-rdOQ4OZ-XHqWWTTWFNUeoaSS6oj0Nvfz/s640/Inner+pri+plate+machining1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Because the plate is 8mm thick - about 3mm thicker than the comet or BSA inner chaincase castings, I have to machine clearance for the chain.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3XC3Y8eRrp_risDPaPEHNUNmdYmlrsKncGjJps67oV0GfegqbHVxi8FnBPn8De4gjy4GGxhl-63bl38mBknMAVO0PjrB5zPdrgsITp5uTGN5NexVOIYOpkBXQvaq6TBQprl1bC1NPH-lA/s1600/Inner+pri+plate+mach+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3XC3Y8eRrp_risDPaPEHNUNmdYmlrsKncGjJps67oV0GfegqbHVxi8FnBPn8De4gjy4GGxhl-63bl38mBknMAVO0PjrB5zPdrgsITp5uTGN5NexVOIYOpkBXQvaq6TBQprl1bC1NPH-lA/s640/Inner+pri+plate+mach+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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No fixing holes yet - it's just sitting there, but clearances are OK and I've allowed for about 15mm chain adjustment. You can see that I've made up an aluminium ring to replace the rollers in the clutch bearing. It make life much easier when the parts are on and off all the time.<br />
OK - next challenge - to drill the mounting holes at the front of the plate to line up with the six, 1/4" whit threads in the crankcase.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXoiyz_Q58BRzv_vZ8IghyIzjmBuTy1-ZHw4JA61DFMVr7iKLanLZDGVgk5aXnJi10ONQmcKFvlQiUH5rf9Q40wwsCxvf0wJrvKNO-Vj9p0K7T91cNLMJjnzbLN6Eb4lxufGQWrV41Po8R/s1600/inner+primary+plate+in+posn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXoiyz_Q58BRzv_vZ8IghyIzjmBuTy1-ZHw4JA61DFMVr7iKLanLZDGVgk5aXnJi10ONQmcKFvlQiUH5rf9Q40wwsCxvf0wJrvKNO-Vj9p0K7T91cNLMJjnzbLN6Eb4lxufGQWrV41Po8R/s640/inner+primary+plate+in+posn.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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First thing is to make a transfer punch marker. I sacrificed a 1/4" WHIT stainless screw, cut the head off, and turned a tiny point on it. Then I sawed a screwdriver slot alongside. This can then be screwed into the crankcase threads so that the point is just overflush.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJxqD1_HJ_Kw6G5Gi3whuGvyiMv53sPkNxVqKI6OBXzLZ5HMhRwsWp9nlYfy4RhXNnH4RSenSMKY-OhqVddylMBw4UBWi0X5UR58I76pq1ss6fK7U_HhQ-RDrLc7fsSX25IpNWdk1p5zq8/s1600/14+whit+transfer+screw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJxqD1_HJ_Kw6G5Gi3whuGvyiMv53sPkNxVqKI6OBXzLZ5HMhRwsWp9nlYfy4RhXNnH4RSenSMKY-OhqVddylMBw4UBWi0X5UR58I76pq1ss6fK7U_HhQ-RDrLc7fsSX25IpNWdk1p5zq8/s640/14+whit+transfer+screw.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you recall, I already had the hole positions roughly marked on the front side of the plate by transferring their positions from the grubby marks on the original paper template. So I drilled one of them right through. I then mounted the plate with one screw, assembled the sprockets and chain and swung the plate to it's optimum position to centralise the chain run. I tightened the single bolt and gave the plate a tap with a hammer above the position of the little pointed screw, thus making a centre-pop mark on the engine-side of the plate. Off with the plate again and drill another hole at the newly marked position.<br />
Here's my method for drilling accurately positioned and sized holes.<br />
1. Amplify the original centre pop with another whack on the bench.<br />
2. Drill right through the plate with a small drill. Here, I'm using a long 2mm drill allowing the plate to 'float' and align itself for a perfectly perpendicular hole.<br />
3. Use a Step Drill (an Imperial one in this case) to open the hole to 1/4", cutting half way through from both sides. If you're careful, the next step on the step drill will de-burr and leave a nice clean chamfer on the hole.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDQ5xNvv4WZ8tfYQ_020UVbd19zgLyRqkTXS-AN703IHB-KAQDHJHwPIccxPowsZqO7iJ-kKvuTq9UIZdEyxNtnbt3Y85Ap0JxuRuJgmcsZDaFCawIltrLleGZQzrwSgni2fO_IvF4_949/s1600/DRill+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDQ5xNvv4WZ8tfYQ_020UVbd19zgLyRqkTXS-AN703IHB-KAQDHJHwPIccxPowsZqO7iJ-kKvuTq9UIZdEyxNtnbt3Y85Ap0JxuRuJgmcsZDaFCawIltrLleGZQzrwSgni2fO_IvF4_949/s640/DRill+1.jpg" width="622" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9GuE5twH_YzxRCXQdEwwD9XrzxYOI6CufIPvbYllMlZUunGoCgzNtZVq55bBdFVLCANvgKqq744Ri8JvQWvUq8goiUbOPb1RIj6FWEo7oDTZe77SbY3kO6M8yd0wpDlo3AYiDOiXg3HtO/s1600/Drill+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9GuE5twH_YzxRCXQdEwwD9XrzxYOI6CufIPvbYllMlZUunGoCgzNtZVq55bBdFVLCANvgKqq744Ri8JvQWvUq8goiUbOPb1RIj6FWEo7oDTZe77SbY3kO6M8yd0wpDlo3AYiDOiXg3HtO/s640/Drill+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Repeat the process for all the other screws, and here it is. Six, perfectly aligned holes. One of them falls beneath the chain run so I countersunk it in preparation for a screw purchased from my old mate Steve Stainless at the next show.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXlxMix6gwubXBANYlhstbYCWQtFJiSTKqUViBXYxAwDuJXVI5WPjG3ejtyHgPZg9GvJFe-0Y3oppe_BU6FDdA1czNQ3UzkllnVSOgrQDpiekKkVbnpa_X0p6-Zr0lfrfhRsZWWQ5S_CbM/s1600/Pri+plate+mounted.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXlxMix6gwubXBANYlhstbYCWQtFJiSTKqUViBXYxAwDuJXVI5WPjG3ejtyHgPZg9GvJFe-0Y3oppe_BU6FDdA1czNQ3UzkllnVSOgrQDpiekKkVbnpa_X0p6-Zr0lfrfhRsZWWQ5S_CbM/s640/Pri+plate+mounted.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Having a quick measure-up for the depth of the outer primary cover. 2 3/4" (70mm) should do nicely. But first, I gotta sort out a chain tensioner.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQBOkN8af9vF5bjesDJV-3-em_0qVoj8schFW1YAHVMneQjA8Rt1Fe3TwFV6vOVbmqfLnutYWIKMFtRtbexV30juSEYHyXmBd49LXChF1iDi-EoWfeMO2jta4i0al0uEoNZKJz9AlVzdtj/s1600/Measuring+for+outer+cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQBOkN8af9vF5bjesDJV-3-em_0qVoj8schFW1YAHVMneQjA8Rt1Fe3TwFV6vOVbmqfLnutYWIKMFtRtbexV30juSEYHyXmBd49LXChF1iDi-EoWfeMO2jta4i0al0uEoNZKJz9AlVzdtj/s640/Measuring+for+outer+cover.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I did a Google search for 'primary chain tensioners' and found hundreds of images of all shapes, sizes, and designs. I wanted something compact, simple and easy to adjust so I did a few 'fag-packet' sketches, took a few measurements and started by cutting a folding a piece of 3mm stainless plate. It was soon assigned to the bin and an aluminium one took shape on the mill.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFi-YltgUPyK1ETCXQf-9NIOppg3AypVezqIt5IMn2inYdTvXsXdCQ9xbTSVfJSEdtFTzQyINtyh7OjAzFEGw46o8dj751YSbOxitJCnyut56ebsK8UgDSf7hGJrW-J_fMEFEk7CrHRP3u/s1600/Chain+tensioner1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFi-YltgUPyK1ETCXQf-9NIOppg3AypVezqIt5IMn2inYdTvXsXdCQ9xbTSVfJSEdtFTzQyINtyh7OjAzFEGw46o8dj751YSbOxitJCnyut56ebsK8UgDSf7hGJrW-J_fMEFEk7CrHRP3u/s640/Chain+tensioner1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I made the' slipper' plate from a piece of nylon which is retained in all planes, by the bracket, the chain and the inner plate.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcXcb_iPyehdbk-vGtfhhujwyOQM7hYJigi_vI_U3u4dD7TSTVayfwRX-WYafnn9JaYjqsd1ysoqoHZKZ63-bYKT8NhJiXIzffHP9ckTFsZQdrrWnDeDokmDbkz9_cgZ6VmvMZfYa0eJ7Q/s1600/Chain+tensioner3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcXcb_iPyehdbk-vGtfhhujwyOQM7hYJigi_vI_U3u4dD7TSTVayfwRX-WYafnn9JaYjqsd1ysoqoHZKZ63-bYKT8NhJiXIzffHP9ckTFsZQdrrWnDeDokmDbkz9_cgZ6VmvMZfYa0eJ7Q/s640/Chain+tensioner3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The tensioner had to be adjustable and retained in a 2mm deep slot.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjyh2GxAU_7RHV_SSVAHbtp2yP7zGBCCjE4OSphOmSTWJR5Bq83GkiCOGLomG0QuU5BI_ouv4DykrCUX4K1q8iY3L_4nbXNs2p5GsnY294F9NIDIOliEEqKUyS2NZg-GFjiRPIjK2-RkWA/s1600/Chain+tensioner2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjyh2GxAU_7RHV_SSVAHbtp2yP7zGBCCjE4OSphOmSTWJR5Bq83GkiCOGLomG0QuU5BI_ouv4DykrCUX4K1q8iY3L_4nbXNs2p5GsnY294F9NIDIOliEEqKUyS2NZg-GFjiRPIjK2-RkWA/s640/Chain+tensioner2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I machined some additional chain clearance in the back plate to give me a maximum of about 25mm adjustment in the tensioner. I shouldn't need that much because the gearbox is, of course, also adjustable. 'jobs a good-un.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNTYuq8X8Cm0sPw4desJXLZcMK3D5UwA6aPstuZKHpMnm9voSOsGyyGrnRfti2ylS9ajIcIOd4fOlfDlB-TMQ1hXF_9vqopbvMTLRiSybwOPVscFmf1Khz-gr8SDjtxGWeYHV2_whyphenhyphenZmSV/s1600/PRI+chain+tensioner+with+chain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNTYuq8X8Cm0sPw4desJXLZcMK3D5UwA6aPstuZKHpMnm9voSOsGyyGrnRfti2ylS9ajIcIOd4fOlfDlB-TMQ1hXF_9vqopbvMTLRiSybwOPVscFmf1Khz-gr8SDjtxGWeYHV2_whyphenhyphenZmSV/s640/PRI+chain+tensioner+with+chain.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I reckon on 3mm aluminium for the outer cover. Something simple and as shallow as possible. I found this reproduction VINCENT clutch inspection cover on ebay for £26 which, if positioned over the clutch pressure plate will allow me to lose another 3mm from the depth of the cover. I measured the required gap between the plates at 2 3/4" - about 70mm so I made three spacing tubes and bolted the plates together through them to align and secure them.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcO03HnO-TYLpKC4Bt8GF8c8MOEnN2dlSKb6vWDz_ozEGGbvb86LZOOpm4XqxpIG6xyxeYUCy5Km_-tA6sl0zvtJp00d-_9PQoE7MzgxpAKo6fd5Aze2I-sbOfWuLzHgW_oqwIaTK9nPkC/s1600/Outer+pri+case+plate1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcO03HnO-TYLpKC4Bt8GF8c8MOEnN2dlSKb6vWDz_ozEGGbvb86LZOOpm4XqxpIG6xyxeYUCy5Km_-tA6sl0zvtJp00d-_9PQoE7MzgxpAKo6fd5Aze2I-sbOfWuLzHgW_oqwIaTK9nPkC/s640/Outer+pri+case+plate1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It may be difficult to see in the pictures but I decided to make the inner and outer plates level and in-line below the centre-line of the inner plate. But, I reduced the height of the top edge of the outer plate by 1/2" - and re-drew the curve at each end. I've decided to make the side wall in two halves and weld them together at the seams. The bottom half will simply be a strip of 3mm x 78mm aluminium, rolled at each end to between the forward end and rearward end of the centre line of the rear plate. The top side wall however will be a slightly more complex shape. I'll start with a paper pattern. Clear as mud - I know.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX65VNTEA5OGfvDSvBen6L3Ntmwq2-dZ6d6PvnjJ3Rw_h8GPV4-YmXcEN9QdK5Aejssd8LXPoT33avwz8w9wWi3MDHfUAd16R8TOVT7ICP0NaddimyLVSUoI1cgtu0Od7WcQL51qsWMFfR/s1600/outer+case+plate+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX65VNTEA5OGfvDSvBen6L3Ntmwq2-dZ6d6PvnjJ3Rw_h8GPV4-YmXcEN9QdK5Aejssd8LXPoT33avwz8w9wWi3MDHfUAd16R8TOVT7ICP0NaddimyLVSUoI1cgtu0Od7WcQL51qsWMFfR/s640/outer+case+plate+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Blimey, it's been a few years since I used our little bench-top sheet metal machine and there's some surface rust on it - but nothing that some WD40 and 400 Wet & Dry can't fix. It took a few minutes to re-learn the quirks of the rollers but it still works fine. The bottom half of the side wall is relatively easy - just a rectangular piece of ali, rolled parallel at both ends. </div>
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Rolling the curves on the top half required the top roller to be adjusted a little higher on one end. This rolls a different radius curve on each long edge of the ali strip. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiANRzZCQUyPo15meAZ7EpY2_tkxdGCepCnXAwBsOZwFqCkskVNlUO-Bw9xgJh5qw9mQ_aXFL4xYxK8Oan8HV5RVg79s8Juul_nrG-AC6ySQTu8NEvC8MU4PjEzDAl5ch3uiQd2ma9ErAzM/s1600/Rollers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiANRzZCQUyPo15meAZ7EpY2_tkxdGCepCnXAwBsOZwFqCkskVNlUO-Bw9xgJh5qw9mQ_aXFL4xYxK8Oan8HV5RVg79s8Juul_nrG-AC6ySQTu8NEvC8MU4PjEzDAl5ch3uiQd2ma9ErAzM/s640/Rollers.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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You can see the bottom wall in place and fitting quite nicely. A paper template is needed to get the shape of the top half. Here, I've taped the straight edge to the rear plate.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAgjlTusMXlIzSCsa564Birumk-IHetm7hbSYdvLDQ9v3mnfCJmXGss18QJ8Znl4TGmFVyfSC76Gr8u7FpZHi4Xr7g4vtqXiYJbUYdmdFCBnlYm1YpORxtFrtffHwRd2lfPYN8Guvc08Bx/s1600/Paper+template+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAgjlTusMXlIzSCsa564Birumk-IHetm7hbSYdvLDQ9v3mnfCJmXGss18QJ8Znl4TGmFVyfSC76Gr8u7FpZHi4Xr7g4vtqXiYJbUYdmdFCBnlYm1YpORxtFrtffHwRd2lfPYN8Guvc08Bx/s640/Paper+template+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I used the 'grubby finger' method to rub along the edges. It's surprising how accurate this can be. I cut out the shape with scissors and taped it to the 3mm ali sheet. Then guillotined and jig-saw'ed close to the lines.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQIvmN39a7CVmJ9AmQS5rnlwxhCpWfJKaR7kXJTpKH2dhQS6_zs3I2AHoFXQluzTpiC-YX9xqqdrBs7dOB_6djRxEfGKMNCkARvIBkEbpU_iRL0wm3SisDTxp3SCgR6A3g-WW6HVyo4_Y4/s1600/paper+template+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQIvmN39a7CVmJ9AmQS5rnlwxhCpWfJKaR7kXJTpKH2dhQS6_zs3I2AHoFXQluzTpiC-YX9xqqdrBs7dOB_6djRxEfGKMNCkARvIBkEbpU_iRL0wm3SisDTxp3SCgR6A3g-WW6HVyo4_Y4/s640/paper+template+2.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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That's plenty good enough. I'll make it slightly oversize anyway, and trim it after it's shaped.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdTjeZWv22uSHQHTKSQTQCmA1uLjND2b8GDGa8eiCcyYYq5dI5vqz7yylE-h1IWQk9arwKIfkuwEfBMRhhccHD8CyA__Aogg_HVnNyflECxCzpIN3Yri3c2Djf4aB-f4AF5HxkA_uiTWDX/s1600/paper+template+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdTjeZWv22uSHQHTKSQTQCmA1uLjND2b8GDGa8eiCcyYYq5dI5vqz7yylE-h1IWQk9arwKIfkuwEfBMRhhccHD8CyA__Aogg_HVnNyflECxCzpIN3Yri3c2Djf4aB-f4AF5HxkA_uiTWDX/s640/paper+template+3.jpg" width="492" /></a></div>
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Here it is, cut from 3mm aluminium sheet with my jigsaw. In theory, if this is rolled correctly it'll form perfectly around the inside and outside plates.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJlI2_Ht2LhkpyP0tOfMku9iHoI2ypjv5HLIM_0_e_1_2qkqkII_SD7F6nWHB-G_ss5_OGho9KQ9hS0ihkDhgqpoWKAUwNtbMfjqNmOR67G2lPSoIXynYQZUmW13329Iiz-I-C1GLIrynp/s1600/Ali+shape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJlI2_Ht2LhkpyP0tOfMku9iHoI2ypjv5HLIM_0_e_1_2qkqkII_SD7F6nWHB-G_ss5_OGho9KQ9hS0ihkDhgqpoWKAUwNtbMfjqNmOR67G2lPSoIXynYQZUmW13329Iiz-I-C1GLIrynp/s640/Ali+shape.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It's much easier to work aluminium if it is annealed. I was taught to heat it gently until it's hot enough to blacken a piece of wood then let it cool naturally. An IKEA pencil works fine.<br />
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Top and bottom sidewalls taped in position and the fit ain't too bad. I just have to trim them a little and set the welding clearances. I learned how to gas-weld aluminium forty years ago but I reckon Tig would be much tidier on this job. I'll have to ask a mate to help out on that.<br />
I'm starting to wonder if the cover is gonna be a little bulky and industrial-looking so let's call this the Mk 1 for the time being<br />
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Here's all the primary drive parts fitted. No tensioner yet because the chain is new and it's tight as a tick with the gearbox in it's forward-most position. The two aluminium posts provide the mounting face for the outer case. Both are threaded M12 to accept the chunky fixing screws.</div>
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And here it is. It's not quite as inelegant as I expected. I found a local welding company who made an excellent job of Tig-ing the joints with enough penetration that I could dress off the welds and give it a quick polish.<br />
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Not too shabby.<br />
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Neil Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15041603942855623882noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7241217104929214113.post-66917176635009876842015-06-02T13:35:00.000-07:002016-11-18T04:49:13.681-08:00Post No 1 - British Bike Build<div style="text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><i>NORVIN BIKE BUILD BLOG</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">by</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Neil Foreman</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">of</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><i>CAR BUILDER SOLUTIONS</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">my email: neil@cbsonline.co.uk</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The ten posts in this Blog are the story of my first bike-build for forty five years - the NORVIN pictured below. </span><span style="font-size: medium;">There are more pictures of the finished machine at the end of the final post. Thanks for reading. To read the other posts click on the 'home' link at the bottom of this post.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>The first few lines here are just an introduction about me and my background</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>Please feel free to skip straight to the meaty stuff below.</i></span></div>
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I think I was about seven years old when my Mum and Dad bought me a 'Bayko Building Set' set for Christmas. My friends had plastic 'Lego' type blocks but the Bayko set had steel rods and proper doors, windows, bricks and tiles. I loved it - and so began a lifetime of making things. I soon discovered my Dad's Size 10 Meccano Set in his old bedroom at my Grandad's house and I began messing with nuts and bolts and electric motors.<br />
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Then in my early teens Slot Cars filled the school holidays. Riko kits offered a wonderful opportunity to upgrade from the standard, boxed Scalextric cars to ones that you build and paint yourself. I still have them all now and I'm looking forward to playing with them again with my Grandchildren, Matilda and Isaac.<br />
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At sixteen I started an Engineering apprenticeship with Elliott Automation in Rochester - soon to become Marconi then British Aerospace. I was taught by the very best engineers in the world how to saw, file and machine metal and how to assemble parts and systems for Aircraft such as Hercules, Concord, Nimrod, Jaguar.<br />
My first transport to and from work at sixteen was my Mum's Honda 50 Scooterette. I ploughed through feet of snow over the North Downs that winter in just a trenchcoat, my Dad's old RAF boots, an open-face helmet with goggles and a silk scarf. My first real bike was a 250cc AJS bought from a friend for £40. There followed a Triumph Tiger 90, a Matchless 500 single Trials Bike and a Bonneville.<br />
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In the second year of my apprenticeship I built my first bike - a 'NORBSA' with a 650cc BSA engine in a Norton Featherbed frame. I clearly remember paying £40 for a BSA Super Rocket in bits. I had the engine and my pal, Steve took the frame to build a TriBsa. I can't recall how much I paid for the Norton frame but it couldn't have been much. I was an apprentice earning only £6 a week plus a few quid from my first working band. I remember fabricating a cylindrical oil tank in the Marconi machine shop. One of my apprentice mates' Dad was a welder and he 'Tigged' it up for me between Concord instrument cradles. I got a severe bollocking from the Flight Controls Division Foreman for putting my oily chain-cases into the Ultrasonic cleaner alongside a batch of Hercules altimeter parts. Ooops.<br />
Sadly I can't remember much more about the bike except that I crashed it into an Austin A35 when a stupid old bitch driver pulled out in front of me looking the other way. The GRP tank was smashed and replaced with an aluminium one, the headstock was bent back and straightened by another friend who worked for Don Godden Engineering and the bent fork legs were replaced - all before the road-rash scabs had fallen off!!! It was on this bike that my mate Roger and me first did 100mph down Bluebell Hill with bobble hats on. I even rode it to Cornwall and back - with clip-ons. Jeezus !!<br />
That bike probably cost me less than £100 - and here's the only picture I have of it. I eventually sold it to fund the next toy - a Berkeley T60, through a bike shop in Sittingbourne, for about £300. Similar bikes today sell for around £8,000.<br />
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From Marconi I joined a young company called Lynx Engineering building and restoring D and C Type Jaguars and other exotic Classic Racing Cars.<br />
Fast forward about twenty years and I formed 'N F Auto Development' and began manufacturing the 'Foreman Mk4' - a replica of Ferrari's classic 'P4' LeMans Sport Prototype racing car.<br />
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Fifty Mk4's later, in 2004, at age 50, I built and learned to fly a two-seat Rotorway Helicopter.<br />
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It took me a year and about a thousand hours to build. I guess I was tougher then because my workshop wasn't very well insulated and I worked evenings and weekends through the long cold winter with only a smokey, Swedish Army, diesel fuelled, tent heater to keep the chill away. My old dog, Baz and Planet Rock on the radio kept me company every step of the way. </div>
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After the Rotorway build, my company Car Builder Solutions began to grow rapidly and 'Toy Time' became very elusive. My two other projects - a 1960 Berkeley T60 build (with a Honda CRX engine) and the final Foreman P4 build that we retained as a family heirloom when we sold the project to Dunlop, still sit firmly on the back burner but we still have a comprehensively equipped workshop with Grit and Bead Blasters, Mig and Tig Welder, Plasma Cutter, Lathes, Milling Machines, Fly-presses, Guillotines, Cut-off Saw, Bandsaw, Polishers, Drill-presses and pretty-much all the Air and Hand Tools we could possibly need. </div>
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Launching and growing 'Car Builder Solutions' and forming my Classic Rock Band, 'The fabulous Grandads' filled the following ten years until, for my 60th birthday, my Son, Matthew bought me a beautiful BSA Rocket Gold Star.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh27HdEKLUlh9KGnHhH0enrqzMaxxfvvgAmM1wLRQ6uzEe4HlHQ4E5xHBuaE5WwpD3SEXZs0-hO7ytGDzcYFGHUqcjFFo0caVoY72BgPgrpHzpCMCV8pjs6oFQ-I7RrJCaWov_qmJ9_YcdI/s1600/RGS+collage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh27HdEKLUlh9KGnHhH0enrqzMaxxfvvgAmM1wLRQ6uzEe4HlHQ4E5xHBuaE5WwpD3SEXZs0-hO7ytGDzcYFGHUqcjFFo0caVoY72BgPgrpHzpCMCV8pjs6oFQ-I7RrJCaWov_qmJ9_YcdI/s1600/RGS+collage.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Soon the nostalgic urge to build another NORBSA began to nibble away at my 'semi-retirement'.<br />
It didn't take long to discover the shockingly high price of Classic British Bikes and Parts for them.<br />
I guess it's a factor of low interest rates for savers and so many people jumping on the Classic Bike bandwagon as a better investment prospect for their hard-earned dosh.<br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">I've always have had an inherent desire to understand how things work - and if I didn't know, then I'd take it apart to find out. I can understand all of the mechanical and much of the electrical systems on my Helicopter and I can understand all of the mechanical and all of the electrical systems on a Chevy-engined P4, so the relative simplicity of the NORVIN should render the project stress-free and a delight to build. (see 'Famous Last Words !!)</span></div>
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So, the search was on for a Norton Frame and BSA 650cc engine - although the prospect of a 500 single engine did cross my mind. Two 'rolling' frame options appeared on ebay. One, a 1960 Wideline, had Bonneville forks and wheels, a Dresda swinging arm, Akront alloy rims, alloy tank and a few other tasty bits plus a V5 registration document. The other was an unregistered, unfinished bike with a slimline frame and some other nice bits. But it also had a 'rebuilt' BSA B33 engine and BSA gearbox fitted. However, the owner kindly admitted that he had run the engine for ten minutes with no oil flow before discovering several stripped teeth on the oil pump! Both owners were asking £3500. </div>
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My Son, Matt eventually came to a deal with the Wideline owner for £3k and we collected it in the van. Here is is exactly as I bought it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRt7ALi3onxeXeQNSUctrry9ngh0Q8S0pV5GU68wXflmAokGxcMPe5nHNHH28BDVoXd2GQmWl-MoxIwkR_zW2hUSpDTevcc3fDG0ohnIgaqmZMLweUmrdHjp650BBUMXpT7ivpTxqtLaQr/s1600/Neils+Frame.jPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRt7ALi3onxeXeQNSUctrry9ngh0Q8S0pV5GU68wXflmAokGxcMPe5nHNHH28BDVoXd2GQmWl-MoxIwkR_zW2hUSpDTevcc3fDG0ohnIgaqmZMLweUmrdHjp650BBUMXpT7ivpTxqtLaQr/s1600/Neils+Frame.jPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Finding an engine wasn't quite as easy. Again, demand has pushed prices up well beyond what I had expected - so a BSA 650cc engine in a cardboard a box - no guarantee that everything is there or working, no carb, no magneto or dynamo and no gearbox would have a price tag of £1000. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX3k2sMrH6bp4f65QkoZydW72m9f6Y_psDgTGft1OJiOzkdXo2rsOZKrQv0NZwQCwg3QLs3gJGstmHSnTPW87665aGlUa9xjTibw_tYYgwuSAVSkYwyex_wQpZwnnWCGvkEZ0R2z6xz8C6/s1600/BSA+old+engine2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX3k2sMrH6bp4f65QkoZydW72m9f6Y_psDgTGft1OJiOzkdXo2rsOZKrQv0NZwQCwg3QLs3gJGstmHSnTPW87665aGlUa9xjTibw_tYYgwuSAVSkYwyex_wQpZwnnWCGvkEZ0R2z6xz8C6/s1600/BSA+old+engine2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Is this worth £1000 ??</div>
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I was really in no rush - scouring the internet every day waiting for a decent engine to come along, when I happened to spot a Vincent Comet engine for sale in Austria. With a Buy-It-Now price of almost £4000 I dismissed it instantly - until, the next day, there also appeared on Ebay a Comet-engined NORVIN at £22,000 !!! Bloody hell!! OK, it would be an expensive bike to build but I reckoned that it's final value, if I were ever to sell it, would be proportional. </div>
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From the pictures, the Austrian engine looked reasonably OK and in good external condition, No visible damage, broken bits or badly rounded nuts, so I called the seller in Austria at about 8 O'clock on Sunday evening - not really expecting an answer. I ended up chatting to an Englishman, Mark Upham, the main man behind the resurrection of the wonderful Brough Superior. He knew of me and the Foreman P4's and we talked for ages, eventually striking a deal on the Comet engine. </div>
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I wondered if I could use a BSA gearbox that I'd bought as as spare for my Rocket. Mark told me it had been done before and he had a clutch kit exactly right for the conversion. So I bought that too along with a new primary sprocket and shock absorber assembly.</div>
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A week later it all arrived - well packed in a big carton and it looked quite clean, tidy and un-messed-around-with. The crank turned freely and there was compression but it had obviously been taken apart at some time. The ebay listing had included the phrase '.... for rebuild or parts' so stripping it right down for a check over was the obvious first step.</div>
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Once upon a time I'd tear into a project and complete it without coming up for air. But these days I seem to spend more and more time thinking, planning and wondering how to do it. I know that I'm losing my edge but it was Matthew's birthday gift (the BSA) that fired-up my Mojo again and sparked the NORVIN project. Well, it's manageable, doesn't take up much space and my workshop is now better insulated so, I hope I can see this one through to the end.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZSUTXcQYrGMojcWu8Jhn9eA_x2ZtjzNHMKg0T3_faQfKryXWO5vMEy2PESE0NpdK0mpHk_oH_JZM7saJsjRoQRI8cpqh5Pegfy58l-Nkes_l-J_x9hrBn0qvt64Q0TpLW1_LiAwaSpxV9/s1600/comet+collage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="625" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZSUTXcQYrGMojcWu8Jhn9eA_x2ZtjzNHMKg0T3_faQfKryXWO5vMEy2PESE0NpdK0mpHk_oH_JZM7saJsjRoQRI8cpqh5Pegfy58l-Nkes_l-J_x9hrBn0qvt64Q0TpLW1_LiAwaSpxV9/s1600/comet+collage.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next - the search for information. How did we ever manage projects like this without the Internet? Of course, we had no choice - we just got on with it. Information came from friends, shops, manuals and from making mistakes - learning the hard way. These days, a Google search will find you an answer to pretty-much any question. Manuals, Drawings and Parts Lists can be downloaded, printed and in your hands in seconds. Forums, Owners Clubs and Blogs like this one are invaluable sources of accurate and directly relevant facts and information. Within days I had a file of printed Handbooks, Service and Rebuild Manuals, Parts Lists and Drawings on the Comet Engine, Norton frame and Bonneville parts.</div>
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1st March 2015 </div>
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So, back to the Blog. It's been about four months since I wrote the previous paragraph and I delivered the engine - partially stripped to Conway Engineering, a local Vincent specialist. I'd removed the head and barrel to discover no major, internal, disaster areas. One of the valve seats had, at one time, come loose and had been tightened up with a ring of centre-punch 'dings' all around it's edge. There were a few scratches on the bore and the exhaust flange thread was partially stripped. 'Steve' at Conway replaced both valve seats and machined the exhaust outlet to accept a new, threaded brass insert. He recommended a new liner and standard piston as the existing piston was not a Vincent one. I'm still waiting for the bottom end to be stripped and inspected. Bit disappointed - I was told it would be done after Christmas. He didn't say which Christmas though. No one seems to do what they say they're gonna do these days - or has it never been any different?</div>
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Over the years I've learned never to believe that so-called 'rebuilt or reconditioned' parts actually have been rebuilt or reconditioned - at least, not to a standard that's acceptable to me. The rolling frame was supposedly built-up ready to accept a Triumph engine but had obviously been standing in damp conditions for a few years and most things that I looked at closely needed attention. So, I've been dismantling, prepping and rebuilding it - in no particular order. I decided not to completely strip and repaint the main frame at this stage because I can't be sure which brackets I need to add or remove for the NORVIN conversion. but to just to 'touch up' the dodgy bits, build and test the bike then strip it again once it has been fully sorted, for a proper repaint.</div>
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So, in no particular order, here are some pics I've taken along the way with a few words on each.</div>
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This is the underside of the bolt-in, frame cross piece fitted just above the swinging arm. The hole here was made by the badly-adjusted rear chain flapping up and down, wearing it's way through the steel tube. I machined the hole clean and square and welded in a new, half-round section of tube.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIUtMlc90g0u5Kg3wVU_WyVOGhSR9prhN4pKWBYabilEzyBDoiJTXS4B00F3qRrbhXSA9q34lZPbTE4mmMRw2q6w9uMFPrelid_sKc-cUultR0qQ0W-gE08zurDJSNTYynDzFqLTa5wT7j/s1600/IMG_2870.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIUtMlc90g0u5Kg3wVU_WyVOGhSR9prhN4pKWBYabilEzyBDoiJTXS4B00F3qRrbhXSA9q34lZPbTE4mmMRw2q6w9uMFPrelid_sKc-cUultR0qQ0W-gE08zurDJSNTYynDzFqLTa5wT7j/s640/IMG_2870.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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One of the many new stainless washers and spacers that I turned on the lathe. This one is for the rear wheel spindle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHq0Dq2JgRrGMp8Ol8ieLVBVlmjIg25YszCMOO-AxqaMn9UEgy1D0ieRXOHzR_4gfNa_uDNYdOO6wTDmOhYtCsfi4rQpgTY2jfIqn050fzE2q1u5dqcCiOvLH5PJCONQ9hSc0TJhQDoEIf/s1600/IMG_2906.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHq0Dq2JgRrGMp8Ol8ieLVBVlmjIg25YszCMOO-AxqaMn9UEgy1D0ieRXOHzR_4gfNa_uDNYdOO6wTDmOhYtCsfi4rQpgTY2jfIqn050fzE2q1u5dqcCiOvLH5PJCONQ9hSc0TJhQDoEIf/s640/IMG_2906.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">I made a stainless cup to cover the speedo drive on the rear hub.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBrQh2cWqmEtvyixXZ8hP4g7-rN479IdP9vz08MNEGi4QVwxnldXFk646ufpsuq8YLVTy3n4wj05KRc2_IFCKNHtemYyP3F63eW9rSWVxF9DgX1k3811-wiWbfQ_Q50K4dFKtw82PsBnA7/s1600/IMG_3283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBrQh2cWqmEtvyixXZ8hP4g7-rN479IdP9vz08MNEGi4QVwxnldXFk646ufpsuq8YLVTy3n4wj05KRc2_IFCKNHtemYyP3F63eW9rSWVxF9DgX1k3811-wiWbfQ_Q50K4dFKtw82PsBnA7/s640/IMG_3283.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I bought these stainless 'Vincent' handlebars from a reputable supplier only to find that the bends were not central but offset to one side by about 30mm. They replaced them no problem.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGp_wJxh6cpYWXyKdmV3tUka49UV3aOQDY4YF4FnK44T-pTT4ZexNFiGoEK7GlLK2_hgY5ptbI7Ks5WK1KuUCngTE-aq8zvGcaYwgrvejxkA1morVRC71AGbnTo6CZzrRpPSWC2fpyvyP/s1600/IMG_3104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGp_wJxh6cpYWXyKdmV3tUka49UV3aOQDY4YF4FnK44T-pTT4ZexNFiGoEK7GlLK2_hgY5ptbI7Ks5WK1KuUCngTE-aq8zvGcaYwgrvejxkA1morVRC71AGbnTo6CZzrRpPSWC2fpyvyP/s640/IMG_3104.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's one of the taper-roller bearings in the Dresda swinging arm that came fitted to the frame. It had been powder-coated with the outer bearing races pre-fitted. No one had bothered to clean off the powder coat from the bearings - they just assembled it as-is. The limited rotational movement of the inner rollers eventually wore away the coating at the contact points. FFS. I have yet to work out how to adjust the bearing float on this setup once the swinging arm and pivot shaft are installed in the frame. I can only think that the bearing preload is set by wedging some tight shims between the frame and the bearing inners on each side. Seems a bit crude and not good engineering.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaBwI8hDrjteJYHIDzkTaQlvG8ygszYvD2AWhLHzGO8JzYn8kP4dDQ8Uxl1Ocmd8qsltjQo8pqjLEzuOgElq01zcC9Jdc76e7FYC77u24jQ5QdjYskeEQZ-HKA-1PlU4KOwyw3A4iBjrqd/s1600/IMG_3167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaBwI8hDrjteJYHIDzkTaQlvG8ygszYvD2AWhLHzGO8JzYn8kP4dDQ8Uxl1Ocmd8qsltjQo8pqjLEzuOgElq01zcC9Jdc76e7FYC77u24jQ5QdjYskeEQZ-HKA-1PlU4KOwyw3A4iBjrqd/s640/IMG_3167.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I used a spare pair of NORBSA mounts to hold the BSA gearbox roughly in position. The ali rear sprocket and brake plate have been polished and the rear wheel mounted on a new stainless spindle with all new stainless spacers and washers. What's more - it looks like the alignment will be fine.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn8O1MI3fUM66Q8EsPevKLpdnsACBGPEnXV46u1ovnucwtmZ-cDkM-aVbWaKCAEDRAUmYCUpFFfOMdnD4EQSvxqbnJ7xLe981E9Rt-K7ZdXH_8Eokq_BxpekO9FhLvD_urC4JYX3x86b56/s1600/IMG_3231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn8O1MI3fUM66Q8EsPevKLpdnsACBGPEnXV46u1ovnucwtmZ-cDkM-aVbWaKCAEDRAUmYCUpFFfOMdnD4EQSvxqbnJ7xLe981E9Rt-K7ZdXH_8Eokq_BxpekO9FhLvD_urC4JYX3x86b56/s1600/IMG_3231.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The Norton Head Tube is a bit scabby with a few surplus welds and these two surplus original brackets. Then they're off and all repainted like new. I removed loads of other surplus brackets from the frame.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHguWQfuxl5_5INPiBlE92Gyl8OhVmWP-4u-8B0ASBIuoo8AlKtYttwJxYKToNuugPqz7j-NI50f0nGLLx1217NrgR2evYUSa0SiWhLMi7JIunjso_cE9_ewcgiC9PlZ2CrdNgQXl3EJ5m/s1600/IMG_3270.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHguWQfuxl5_5INPiBlE92Gyl8OhVmWP-4u-8B0ASBIuoo8AlKtYttwJxYKToNuugPqz7j-NI50f0nGLLx1217NrgR2evYUSa0SiWhLMi7JIunjso_cE9_ewcgiC9PlZ2CrdNgQXl3EJ5m/s640/IMG_3270.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxWgq85j0-DODrMvKXyWLqMIIzL27narcI9dLNI21iXg88QXxFt5NHRHgcXe82sBV-NXYR4xGS5BEOsy_HqjKhn56RSepRPjduQFCd1CgdNgQPN6dr7NwS7hkXPNZ_f0FaB87zBp6Vrpum/s1600/IMG_3273.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxWgq85j0-DODrMvKXyWLqMIIzL27narcI9dLNI21iXg88QXxFt5NHRHgcXe82sBV-NXYR4xGS5BEOsy_HqjKhn56RSepRPjduQFCd1CgdNgQPN6dr7NwS7hkXPNZ_f0FaB87zBp6Vrpum/s640/IMG_3273.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The aluminium front brake plate needed some TLC. Complete strip down and dress-up with a Scotchbrite disc on an angle grinder, then polished.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh17hsf_cD494IvaXlLpkyqeGo4GomH9ZycYaIRf3oYXyvCUUKLyLfOo7nXpSo1_jrZUha_uoI1lSIp-BVvr_IwUs65F20WdxI36z2BsC67e2E7pG7Di3mkYJEcVDLbLONPbnK0xQLIRqA8/s1600/IMG_3271.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh17hsf_cD494IvaXlLpkyqeGo4GomH9ZycYaIRf3oYXyvCUUKLyLfOo7nXpSo1_jrZUha_uoI1lSIp-BVvr_IwUs65F20WdxI36z2BsC67e2E7pG7Di3mkYJEcVDLbLONPbnK0xQLIRqA8/s640/IMG_3271.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgObu8UEBkdUIB0B7g7rguhJFUN8-laxFZ0PBoBtpwZ1zsPyou9v_sq0f24-2tvUXWW9Md5kuQI8IL4nMBnuvro0iqhC3t5SovB00CRV3tOd4J8-RYgPYICkOJ9-dA-O6QC9CtznuNcZl7H/s1600/IMG_3282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgObu8UEBkdUIB0B7g7rguhJFUN8-laxFZ0PBoBtpwZ1zsPyou9v_sq0f24-2tvUXWW9Md5kuQI8IL4nMBnuvro0iqhC3t5SovB00CRV3tOd4J8-RYgPYICkOJ9-dA-O6QC9CtznuNcZl7H/s640/IMG_3282.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Front shoes look tatty but that's just the unusual paint finish. They're pretty-much brand new.</div>
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I love POR15's 'Blackcote' aerosol paint. It's expensive - about £25 for one can but it's a really tough, isocyanate-based paint that cures when exposed to moisture. These parts have been stripped, masked and blasted then given a thorough wash with thinners before four or five coats of Blackcote.<br />
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Here's a makeshift spring compressor for the rear shocks. Just a luggage tie and a screwdriver. Keep twisting like a tourniquet. Simples.<br />
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The KONI shocks that came with the frame were a bit tatty but mechanically fine. I replaced the bushes with polyurethane ones and made new stainless sleeves for the different bolt sizes top and bottom. A quick polish for the upper and lower aluminium spring seats made 'em better than new.<br />
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One fork leg had a leak at the bottom and was almost dry of oil. I stripped them completely and dressed the ali legs Scotchbrite discs. There was an amazing amount of crud collected in the bottom of the legs which took a long brush and several washes with thinners to clean out. No wonder there was a leak. New seals all-round.<br />
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Everything fork-wise is in very good nick for 1971 vintage - can't have had much use.</div>
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Yup - been polishing - and that's with a mask, goggles and hood !!!<br />
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These nice die-cast headlamp brackets are readily available but they're universal and come with black plastic spacers to adapt them to the diameter of the fork legs. I turned some aluminium sleeves with a flange at one end......</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk1tlVeuaYNx-pJ5XUqqJNGqj3W_Zo-NHaiuLRi6Zl5j9f0JtB4PpWsAQ7AG0mf4Hs11-N1SzWN7vrjH3RBuDswAKDP6UH0rVIKDRVI_aHSoP4D6ArVGgT5eV3Satj6qSC50bTgguwD2yC/s1600/IMG_3309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk1tlVeuaYNx-pJ5XUqqJNGqj3W_Zo-NHaiuLRi6Zl5j9f0JtB4PpWsAQ7AG0mf4Hs11-N1SzWN7vrjH3RBuDswAKDP6UH0rVIKDRVI_aHSoP4D6ArVGgT5eV3Satj6qSC50bTgguwD2yC/s640/IMG_3309.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
...and split them with a slitting saw on the mill so they'd clamp up.<br />
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Better than the placcy ones</div>
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The stainless Vincent handlebars are 7/8" diameter and the Bonneville handlebar clamps are 1" so I made some stainless bushes to match them and cut the bushes into two so they'll clamp around the bars.</div>
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I couldn't find a supplier of stainless 7" motorcycle headlamp bowls so I used a car one from our CBS stock. I removed the post mount parts and drilled mounting holes in the sides. I turned some aluminium spacers and cut them in half at an angle to match the curvature of the bowl. Ideally the spacers should be concave and convex to perfectly match the inside and outside curve of the bowl. But they're only 1" diameter so I reckon they'll just flatten the curve of the bowl between them as they're tightened up.<br />
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Here's our little blasting cabinet. This one has fine grit for light cleaning before paint. We also have a much bigger one with coarse grit in it.<br />
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I brazed two little brackets to the frame cross-member just behind the tank to take the tank strap over-centre fastener.<br />
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Gotta workout a plan to get the engine and gearbox sitting perfectly in position before I decide how to make the mounts.<br />
First draft - I cut a piece of 10mm ply, screwed to pieces of batten to it to locate between the bottom frame rails. I then cut a piece of 3mm ali, folded it into a shallow 'V' - only a couple of degrees to match the angle of the underside of the crank-cases, and trimmed it to sit flush with the top of the bottom frame rails. Hmmmm .... <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_SgBpzv2GLQbdnJhxyK0tja1D9zsk7NWo0K8aAC0FGYxiAZYQV9eOrDlB-8-oFr63_aUF8buStiOuMP83Hhl6Z-_R5NdxUUwI8aDMx2vu-XFZlY8Hryimm_aQEtQNdZ-DBEsyDndoUizZ/s1600/IMG_3380.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_SgBpzv2GLQbdnJhxyK0tja1D9zsk7NWo0K8aAC0FGYxiAZYQV9eOrDlB-8-oFr63_aUF8buStiOuMP83Hhl6Z-_R5NdxUUwI8aDMx2vu-XFZlY8Hryimm_aQEtQNdZ-DBEsyDndoUizZ/s640/IMG_3380.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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OK so the engine's sitting there but there's no way to accurately adjust it's position. Little stacks of aluminium wedged under each corner ain't good enough. Rethink.</div>
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Meanwhile, I had to perform some drastic surgery on the crankcase that could bring tears to the eyes of a Vincent purist. There's a casting web with extended boss on the bottom of the left hand crank case. It's obviously there as an additional mount for the Vincent gearbox and primary cases. I don't plan on using either so it's in the way and needs to come off. I supported the main weight of the engine on a table and clamped the crankcase to the mill bed - flat and level.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6WrpGVA9PcJiOS_dYSig-JEcJttpGgwsEtst3n8sQeRGMKVhccEuyLaKpvg9g22BD5jm49t_WobuS0hqr5tX8QLNs7pu8qDje8pl0npyvB1hP8Axym8XMr7Mga3_2ijzIjvWH7B_lfpg0/s1600/IMG_3413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6WrpGVA9PcJiOS_dYSig-JEcJttpGgwsEtst3n8sQeRGMKVhccEuyLaKpvg9g22BD5jm49t_WobuS0hqr5tX8QLNs7pu8qDje8pl0npyvB1hP8Axym8XMr7Mga3_2ijzIjvWH7B_lfpg0/s1600/IMG_3413.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
Then nibbled it off carefully with a fly cutter. Half way there.......<br />
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Gone. Now there's a useful mounting boss in the same plane as the others.<br />
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While I wait for some Vincent parts to arrive I'm replacing all possible nuts and bolts with Stainless ones. Where they are 'on show' I'm skimming off the stamping and polishing them. Nothing like a bit of Blingy Bullshit<br />
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This years birthday prezzie from my Son Matthew. This superb (German) MOTOGADGET instrument. It's about as high tech and modern inside as they come with discrete digital display of Speed, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, etc. It can be programmed to display as many of the functions as you like topped off with a classic analogue Rev Counter dial. I made a simple stainless mounting plate, silver-soldered to a spigot that drops into a spare boss on the top yoke and secured with a grub screw<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoZwZclM5Miqwz0PPFR4-y3PtlSOHn3P-dQd4_m6vyEfbDSpTDJ_8Uh2WZgreWbzACHHv7356tVf3tYFiGuuk2M92-yEiYfaCuG1LW3b9bBeqyFalvvZ5-DVkN6W_WDn4KGTgBrFWQtlta/s1600/IMG_3430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoZwZclM5Miqwz0PPFR4-y3PtlSOHn3P-dQd4_m6vyEfbDSpTDJ_8Uh2WZgreWbzACHHv7356tVf3tYFiGuuk2M92-yEiYfaCuG1LW3b9bBeqyFalvvZ5-DVkN6W_WDn4KGTgBrFWQtlta/s640/IMG_3430.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Plan 2 for the engine location method. I cut a foot square piece of 18mm ply and clamped it to the bottom frame rails with the trimmed 3mm ali plate. I inserted two, 300mm long pieces of studding through the front and rear crankcase mounting holes and made up four adjustable-length support pillars from 25mm diameter aluminium bar and some 50mm pieces of M10 studding for each end of each mounting stud. Unscrewing or screwing together each pillar assembly, raises or lowers that corner of the engine allowing me to adjust it's horizontal and vertical position very accurately. Here I'm using a toolmakers spirit level to set the vertical plane.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQxXtyfoPqXiRX_bmyaxJ_sOZfrSql8EsM1TGJvdIHwJQb1OLeafqqjr-kgv8_Xyv1K_HqR8yA0AupvGywORctCox4DHiIaQHv71CUSN2WJTUQ2FRtu9-Upv-Az4wIqaYLkRMaHI6hv6tT/s1600/IMG_3435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQxXtyfoPqXiRX_bmyaxJ_sOZfrSql8EsM1TGJvdIHwJQb1OLeafqqjr-kgv8_Xyv1K_HqR8yA0AupvGywORctCox4DHiIaQHv71CUSN2WJTUQ2FRtu9-Upv-Az4wIqaYLkRMaHI6hv6tT/s1600/IMG_3435.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Fortunately, with the gearbox mounted centrally in the frame, it's drive sprocket sits perfectly in-line with the rear wheel sprocket leaving only it's up/down and forward/backward positions to be determined. I've fitted a standard Vincent Comet exhaust pipe so this will help with the clearance of the frame down-tubes and the forward/backward position of the engine. I have decided to run the primary chain dry so I'm not committed to use the Vincent primary cases. I'll make my own case around the final position of the engine and box.<br />
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Four new engine mount brackets are brazed to the frame, at the front and rear of the crankcase on either side. One small alloy plate at the front is way more elegant than other huge plates I've seen that pick up on the standard Norton front frame mounts.<br />
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I made a head steady mount from 5mm steel that links the head studs to an unused fuel tank mount on the frame.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5U3MOxaiFjwK_ZmabjJne_ywaaTOec3HS98BpcnWt_QSaIlIzijWR2NmZ3gBHD6a86AzP98DdYg0qnPvbA8eCExJ41D-XpkswGlVYHHtHZ0mHHkT3tXu9A6KyFKjBOLClBAuJKwmTt14Q/s1600/IMG_3462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5U3MOxaiFjwK_ZmabjJne_ywaaTOec3HS98BpcnWt_QSaIlIzijWR2NmZ3gBHD6a86AzP98DdYg0qnPvbA8eCExJ41D-XpkswGlVYHHtHZ0mHHkT3tXu9A6KyFKjBOLClBAuJKwmTt14Q/s1600/IMG_3462.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here we go then. First step - roughly-shaped card templates for the rear engine/gearbox mounts. Holding the card in place you can press around the holes to make an impression on the card and get pretty accurate positioning. Positioning the gearbox in all three dimensions is critical at this stage. Fore and Aft to allow fitting and adjustment of the primary chain. Up and Down to ensure optimum tension on the rear chain when a rider is sitting on the bike. And Left and Right for primary and rear chain alignment</div>
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I always use a step-drill for making the holes in sheet and plates. The 3mm first stage allows you to 'pull' the hole centre like a centre-dril for spot-on positioning. The final hole is always perfectly round, clean and accurate. If you're careful when you reach the correct size step you can even de-burr the hole by just touching the next step.</div>
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The first mock-ups are in 3mm aluminium. There's a mixture of 5/16", 3/8" and 7/16" mounting holes. This is one of those on-off-on-off-on-off jobs which seems more instinctive than scientific. What I'm after here is minimum bulk with elegance and adequate strength to do the job. I feel myself getting happier as the shape is refined. Author, Robert Pirsig, sums it up in this line from his book ' Zen and The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance' ..... </div>
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<i><span style="font-size: large;">'The material and the Craftsman's thoughts change together in a progression of smooth, even changes until his mind is at rest at the exact instant the material is right.' </span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWa0tdXgUnTgfqowlLZk0tY1-4D1nsiMkTOWOPBrQ2IV9tnZ7kzMC4UC3zaw2ASUa99ri2OILooh2BEYN6L6HTWz2bhEQmDZxctNdD942o587Z_kod4099T71lQelBQFgcwI-7fFX0P9Th/s1600/IMG_3495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWa0tdXgUnTgfqowlLZk0tY1-4D1nsiMkTOWOPBrQ2IV9tnZ7kzMC4UC3zaw2ASUa99ri2OILooh2BEYN6L6HTWz2bhEQmDZxctNdD942o587Z_kod4099T71lQelBQFgcwI-7fFX0P9Th/s1600/IMG_3495.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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It's more trial and error - on- off-on-off - trimming and refining the shape to maintain clearance around the casings whilst keeping maximum strength. You can see here the crankshaft oil seal mod and it's carrier plate - as yet unsecured. This is to prevent oil weeping through the crank bearing into the primary chain case - because I'll be running it dry.</div>
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Finally time to transfer the profile to 1/4" aluminium plate for the real mounts. I drew around the 3mm templates with a 'Sharpee' which makes a 2mm thick line. I cut the 1/4" plate with my Makita battery Jigsaw and plenty of WD40 lubricant right along the middle of the Sharpee line.<br />
I made the left hand mount in two pieces with an overlap. This 'stagger' moves the plate inboard to give a little more clearance for the gearbox final drive sprocket and the rear chain. The two parts are dowelled together here but I will add countersunk bolts later. The elongated hole is for adjustment of the primary chain tension.<br />
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Left and right plates are slightly different shapes but there are some common edges. So I bolted them together and cleaned-up the straight runs on my mill.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijt8qWw7DvH2BhgYiqH7xww7gAeH2Mw0oC49G_rbY4Q76phCOe4ilFkMo_zJjZTeQRZ-GlXExycbFKv6QFa2ppT_dedqz6kKGpPcEuPiPT2FdfkGbG6-wYldmgV-lQ7Zii6HlHMwwEfv8k/s1600/IMG_3576.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijt8qWw7DvH2BhgYiqH7xww7gAeH2Mw0oC49G_rbY4Q76phCOe4ilFkMo_zJjZTeQRZ-GlXExycbFKv6QFa2ppT_dedqz6kKGpPcEuPiPT2FdfkGbG6-wYldmgV-lQ7Zii6HlHMwwEfv8k/s640/IMG_3576.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Our Linisher did a brilliant job of dressing all the internal and external radii.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Dy4YYVoGQr_8coiV4nGUbXp9mIFfX2BrnWlYUptVWxMB5vP2Eb0iu2sC_QeN4WmcnnTWqD_kPUVjgBlZ9kg7lz9E6zVq1464cKl4q20EaKqNtRnjikNaVht3D-H6mkm_VqWstvEyvxfz/s1600/IMG_3577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Dy4YYVoGQr_8coiV4nGUbXp9mIFfX2BrnWlYUptVWxMB5vP2Eb0iu2sC_QeN4WmcnnTWqD_kPUVjgBlZ9kg7lz9E6zVq1464cKl4q20EaKqNtRnjikNaVht3D-H6mkm_VqWstvEyvxfz/s1600/IMG_3577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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OK - all back together for an alignment check. I tied the bike to the lift with rachet straps and used a piece of heavy aluminium angle as a datum to adjust the rear wheel tracking parallel to the front wheel. I've temporarily fitted the primary chain which is a continuous, 66 link 'O' Ring chain. It should be reliable and will need no lubrication in the chaincase.</div>
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Plates all fettled and polished.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh53K-jLWn6BdhwTbQ7ELTdl4IKv6vDIkrnvq-8b9eYZ8Myp3EJ2FWNSc-I0CZd5T9DxjTQQ9-bh_l8Q3-e8mj9T0TBQIoGZtoVvCfq-bMcHdjXl1q0Qr_psR1SPcz_NwNTcYKaaYCfLpc9/s1600/Gbox+plates+polished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh53K-jLWn6BdhwTbQ7ELTdl4IKv6vDIkrnvq-8b9eYZ8Myp3EJ2FWNSc-I0CZd5T9DxjTQQ9-bh_l8Q3-e8mj9T0TBQIoGZtoVvCfq-bMcHdjXl1q0Qr_psR1SPcz_NwNTcYKaaYCfLpc9/s640/Gbox+plates+polished.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Onto the gearbox for a while. I bought the Pre-unit, BSA A10 box from ebay. It looked pretty good in the pictures which I confirmed with a quick inspection. But pretty good isn't good enough. Better sort it out properly. I made a stainless steel replacement inspection cover. And new gaskets.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNLGq3TLKdxa3McMsA6MiEralKyDNyxBcCSlqtnHJTJkZyTXLW3IbIiDHYSrQUj1JRkkS_8LDy8gfQO_qXNlnGyIZKGFkka0g_YQerQd6pNIR00AfVpCygfBJ2qfHLmbXIHdVi5jfBV0Ew/s1600/Gbox+insp+cover+SS.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNLGq3TLKdxa3McMsA6MiEralKyDNyxBcCSlqtnHJTJkZyTXLW3IbIiDHYSrQUj1JRkkS_8LDy8gfQO_qXNlnGyIZKGFkka0g_YQerQd6pNIR00AfVpCygfBJ2qfHLmbXIHdVi5jfBV0Ew/s640/Gbox+insp+cover+SS.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrPCRotsjLfQALi3h7_HZTcucO70soG4LE2Oxy565pxvtAsB0TkyMJhHot1JQILI8vByaoyPkdk0mCRwa2-l9iJeDtuxhTJax7NLrdKPhZpAxaKb11iZioTYV9Uk6yq9-2HxGRMT5aSLek/s1600/Gearbox+gasket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrPCRotsjLfQALi3h7_HZTcucO70soG4LE2Oxy565pxvtAsB0TkyMJhHot1JQILI8vByaoyPkdk0mCRwa2-l9iJeDtuxhTJax7NLrdKPhZpAxaKb11iZioTYV9Uk6yq9-2HxGRMT5aSLek/s640/Gearbox+gasket.jpg" width="546" /></a></div>
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I removed the worm-driven speedo drive ('cos I have a satellite speedo transducer for the Motogauge instrument.) This left a 5/8" hole through the gearbox casing. I turned up two tapered plugs just over 5/8" diameter and pulled them together on both ends of the hole with a long M6 bolt. Sealed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpFrooSBT5ESaqfTD-F4MQqHXY-XQWcAylR9duw2YSZRbS0Xw5PAemPk0xz3K3VEVYadfSiNtrGRFsY0pk6sZFiQHEv0TxRIbfrNNEHb9_f5TuhMvCr_3YjHtm8c1cCV1F17ksChQ5RWGd/s1600/Speedo+drive+plug.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="499" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpFrooSBT5ESaqfTD-F4MQqHXY-XQWcAylR9duw2YSZRbS0Xw5PAemPk0xz3K3VEVYadfSiNtrGRFsY0pk6sZFiQHEv0TxRIbfrNNEHb9_f5TuhMvCr_3YjHtm8c1cCV1F17ksChQ5RWGd/s640/Speedo+drive+plug.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I found this 1/4" BSP magnetic drain plug from RS Components.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCQrcOi9DDoZjAiX61uThc40p_Ja43qJ7FyrlNiz9V9IEi2qOPj6wT1hMVg6qNFv3Hr_X19UO7cmIawwg2HrY2xUojhSMLodNQH7cV0urOSPg10Dw3iu1dWZj6ili7NgKZHpwOJPtKsYtJ/s1600/Magnetic+drain+plug.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCQrcOi9DDoZjAiX61uThc40p_Ja43qJ7FyrlNiz9V9IEi2qOPj6wT1hMVg6qNFv3Hr_X19UO7cmIawwg2HrY2xUojhSMLodNQH7cV0urOSPg10Dw3iu1dWZj6ili7NgKZHpwOJPtKsYtJ/s640/Magnetic+drain+plug.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once again, the engine is set up on the milling machine - blocked and clamped level - all just to drill and tap the three holes for securing the crank seal carrier plate.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhiKabOGGsuhNSg4nSSctOHv1AjyzvP3nNgzFTtQZxZQx1dC73exybT2DOvO1x9zyoVprK2uGDl9Knnhp8R_D8eOYmCDk4cBwgJlC1wxQNh6IhdwUWRLDFaZpfiQmj7pcVZ95fTgLs5Ak8/s1600/Drilling+for+crank+seal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhiKabOGGsuhNSg4nSSctOHv1AjyzvP3nNgzFTtQZxZQx1dC73exybT2DOvO1x9zyoVprK2uGDl9Knnhp8R_D8eOYmCDk4cBwgJlC1wxQNh6IhdwUWRLDFaZpfiQmj7pcVZ95fTgLs5Ak8/s640/Drilling+for+crank+seal.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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And here it is - all done. (It's to prevent crankcase oil from seeping through the main bearing into the primary chaincase, which I'm running dry.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfYxeegb11FFddaidZ0WC9lleg5tdWrB2eRt8fuzOdJ9395_azXmhZnYZFKW12NvdWe2VqUIyKBq_zBKXCe2dzlq1oEzVeJ9dHx1vgvxPIgZEupBb16sVzKMBEm5xl6I0w1E2SK_lpAf7_/s1600/Crank+seal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfYxeegb11FFddaidZ0WC9lleg5tdWrB2eRt8fuzOdJ9395_azXmhZnYZFKW12NvdWe2VqUIyKBq_zBKXCe2dzlq1oEzVeJ9dHx1vgvxPIgZEupBb16sVzKMBEm5xl6I0w1E2SK_lpAf7_/s640/Crank+seal.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Here I've removed the two original Norton front engine mounting brackets from the frame and I've completed the brazing of the four new mounting plates on the bottom frame rails.</div>
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At this stage I won't be stripping and repainting the whole frame - I'll just prep and repaint the areas I've worked on then, when the bike has be assembled and shook-down for a season, I'll strip it and paint the frame properly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_UpnaYi2QUa78frCY-EAahXwhauJI10F4dOhknHJfNQQ6rnnOfaaHhLkq9L7ZZwrP9qPBWEZBVhnyPAMYqWsPmJQynUQPhogYfljHziKcQJPPaOR8JUtgrtKPdrH3FT1P6lQmHOmPfEKm/s1600/Brackets+removed+and+brazed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_UpnaYi2QUa78frCY-EAahXwhauJI10F4dOhknHJfNQQ6rnnOfaaHhLkq9L7ZZwrP9qPBWEZBVhnyPAMYqWsPmJQynUQPhogYfljHziKcQJPPaOR8JUtgrtKPdrH3FT1P6lQmHOmPfEKm/s640/Brackets+removed+and+brazed.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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So, for now, it's just prep and paint for the down tubes / bottom frame rails. Just to stick with the top quality job, I've used her ladyship's puresilk curtain liners for masking sheets.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNZ2zgWBMufJfUsCQ5LDAVv58jD7Go9TiH9lMw7xIY6ZLpdxR-toGpgSZcoTtMG3nzJ-Jv_XthpdnFXCFB4OPYDeUfX1SOTegk0L_R01msol52bjJtGm1YNoDXWhlUDcls89dD48cKrjox/s1600/Frame+prepped+for+touching+in.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNZ2zgWBMufJfUsCQ5LDAVv58jD7Go9TiH9lMw7xIY6ZLpdxR-toGpgSZcoTtMG3nzJ-Jv_XthpdnFXCFB4OPYDeUfX1SOTegk0L_R01msol52bjJtGm1YNoDXWhlUDcls89dD48cKrjox/s640/Frame+prepped+for+touching+in.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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POR15's Blackcote Aerosol again (available from CBS). This is amazing stuff but you have to be careful building up coats slowly or it'll run. Warmer is better. You can rub down with 400 grit W&D after a day and put a few more coats on.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyp6QBS0DjQykT1QOLAeOrlHdzNeEYK9-D7tlsFelQ5Q2YNTNE50imYUhQQqs1B4u1N-xtTTVK9LQqpj2Jg-Zrrwo6tlpKV54l0t7kzGWdwrr9j68L4Lg5fvlYYcKxCeoPHjdJLnMgHKaU/s1600/POR15+and+frame.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyp6QBS0DjQykT1QOLAeOrlHdzNeEYK9-D7tlsFelQ5Q2YNTNE50imYUhQQqs1B4u1N-xtTTVK9LQqpj2Jg-Zrrwo6tlpKV54l0t7kzGWdwrr9j68L4Lg5fvlYYcKxCeoPHjdJLnMgHKaU/s640/POR15+and+frame.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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A tidy bench is a happy bench.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Rsc7pmZcE_PlFamwjLVZYCs4qWr2wPzSu3ypXe8YhX7nYzgqZw5jxgO3UrjKMwRBW2LLoxiDDpzUe2wQjzDJ9hT4K7vVzMWjlffX4hs6ucsyjAKU6bemQukclAQldxURxaaVoMgv27hR/s1600/bench.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Rsc7pmZcE_PlFamwjLVZYCs4qWr2wPzSu3ypXe8YhX7nYzgqZw5jxgO3UrjKMwRBW2LLoxiDDpzUe2wQjzDJ9hT4K7vVzMWjlffX4hs6ucsyjAKU6bemQukclAQldxURxaaVoMgv27hR/s640/bench.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I checked out the gearbox and replaced a few parts including the seals. And I added this one - a clever mod. from SRM which cures the notorious BSA oil leak from around the input shaft.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyowWVNTMaLCjbuW11qTGf_j4h-IE0UNGHV21jEG8sMnM8HrM49YigZ-xzouvsaAqBo5Yek2CwQBxbDpg7R_ierVALom9ojIXjFdQDkOYEWb02hhkEddgfDQ7JG3Sqgyi2VOU5ZqfaCP2f/s1600/IMG_3650.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyowWVNTMaLCjbuW11qTGf_j4h-IE0UNGHV21jEG8sMnM8HrM49YigZ-xzouvsaAqBo5Yek2CwQBxbDpg7R_ierVALom9ojIXjFdQDkOYEWb02hhkEddgfDQ7JG3Sqgyi2VOU5ZqfaCP2f/s640/IMG_3650.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The gearbox casing is in pretty good nick but I gave it a bling-up with this little stainless steel wire brush (available from CBS) and some thinners.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgQRCsZCQApA_KtR2ZeUHmHUVGqxHCqqS75YC2Ya8xgFC26oVVGE0imuzPFyPY7KzUT_h8LcnYJVYdFvlLrkX8X0IXIQ7DSZmyncb-B1N11FqLf7GO434f8yf0UHGqQBNbtwr0L1Vvkb-b/s1600/IMG_3651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgQRCsZCQApA_KtR2ZeUHmHUVGqxHCqqS75YC2Ya8xgFC26oVVGE0imuzPFyPY7KzUT_h8LcnYJVYdFvlLrkX8X0IXIQ7DSZmyncb-B1N11FqLf7GO434f8yf0UHGqQBNbtwr0L1Vvkb-b/s640/IMG_3651.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Back on the mounts again for a final alignment check. The easiest and most reliable datum to use for aligning the engine and transmission is the swinging arm shaft. Here I've replaced the shaft with a longer, 5/8" diameter steel bar and I've clamped a 'Vee' block around the end of it. I can now check the vertical and horizontal plumb with my toolmakers spirit level and here I've clamped a straight piece of angle to the Vee block and I'm checking that the engine casing is square to the shaft. Steel rules are pretty accurate to within a quarter of a millimetre or less but a digital caliper will get it closer. Ideally, the crankshaft and the swinging arm shaft should be parallel.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2x9mjYSV_FFwPBaT7Sy6Y10ZVkCcwVxN_nXHsk-BdimK26bdJAdS1_yA3E12Vf-l_j4i-FtCKdz1mvB-9ZcwpUOA4WIhdzGKe5wIjDI2RwuhBjQsWr4LXY3Aqf0skrAvvXg2F1AdZUGuV/s1600/GBox+align.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2x9mjYSV_FFwPBaT7Sy6Y10ZVkCcwVxN_nXHsk-BdimK26bdJAdS1_yA3E12Vf-l_j4i-FtCKdz1mvB-9ZcwpUOA4WIhdzGKe5wIjDI2RwuhBjQsWr4LXY3Aqf0skrAvvXg2F1AdZUGuV/s640/GBox+align.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's the gearbox - all blinged-up. New kickstart quadrant and all stainless nuts, screws, studs and plugs.</div>
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Neil Foremanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15041603942855623882noreply@blogger.com